I have my old (60's era, made in the USA.) Gerber liner lock sitting in front of me on my secondary computer (A horizontal desk top computer case.) in its sheath and the sheath has to be resewn because the threading has disintigrated.

Talking to all the participants on this forum, I started to think about the blade closing unexpectedly while using the knife after reading a thread about a lock back knife that did that during heavy but practical and realistic use. Based on what little I know about all the types of lock up mechanisms, I feel that the liner locks are the safest of them all.

My reasoning is that if the liner lock (My Gerber has a brass liner lock in an otherwise stainless steel knife.) can not handle the stress placed on it, it will start to bend out of shape and not give up suddenly. Even if it was brittle brass or some other type of metal that was brittle through constant use or manufacturing defect, and did snap, the whole length of the liner lock would not fail and there would still be something left to keep the blade from closing completely on your fingers.

I also like the pin lock on Italian stilettoes, but realize that if the pin shears at its base, it could compromise the safety of the blade closing onto your fingers.

Differing opinions anyone?

Bountyhunter

I find the axis to be the best. In order to open or close the knife you never have to put your fingers in front of the blade. (which is how many a cut takes place on liner, lockbacks, ect) Another problem I have seen with liner locks is with a tight grip and the right motion you can unlock a liner lock during use. Also, Liner locks need to be made to tight tolerances to be effective, an axis will lock even if badly worn. If I had to choose a best lock the axis is it. (for me atleast, many on knife forums seem to agree the two best folding knife locks are frame locks and axis locks) Now, if you really want the absolute best lock on something that folds a butterfly knife is it. Unless you break a pin it works like a fixed blade and won't fold on your fingers. However, these are not always legal and are generally frowned upon by LE.

I think it depends a lot on the actual knife. For example, I have an Air SOG which is a lock back. If you look at this knife, you'll come to the conclusion that the pin will fail way before the locking mechanism does. On the other hand, my Sebenza, which is a liner lock looks pretty bulletproof. Although, my guess is the pin would fail before the lock as well (although it would take a lot more stress than the Air SOG).

-john


Air SOG:


Sebenza:

Just a little info, the Sebenza is a frame lock, a bit different from a liner lock. <img src="/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> (Nice knives by the way, I have two but I still can't work up the nerve to carry one. Carrying a $200 knife is hard enough <img src="/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />)

Thanks for the correction. Terms aside, I still think a lot comes down to the specific knife.

FWIW, the Sebbie carries well. :-)

-john

After reading the posts, I looked at my Gerber again and noticed that the brass liner conforms entirely to the handle shape except for a slight portrution of the brass that is designed to spring out and brace the blade. All pins going through the frame also go through the brass liner (Sub-frame?).

The sweep of the handle and the sweep of the blade make my Gerber better at skinning, cutting on a block, or cutting away from your body. The shape of the blade and handle make it awkward to try whittling toward yourself where you would use the thumb as a brace for light delicate work.

I have tried holding it where pressure might push the lock away during use, and there is no way the Gerber will allow that to happen. It takes deliberate focused pushing on the lock leaf to disengage the blade.

The part about the fingers being in the way when you do close it is correct, but it constitutes a short learning curve in safety and those of us that have never cut ourselves have never used a knife.

Bountyhunter

Oh, you just mean during normal use? I assumed you meant during abusive use.

-john

JohnN:

It is a 3-1/16 inch bladed folding knife which is used within its limitaions. Whether I hammer the point into something by hitting the back bottom of the handle, pound on the top of the blade to split something, or do an imitation of Lizzy Borden attacking a black bear, the lock will not disengage unless I am consiously disengaging it.

Bountyhunter

Hand down,
Benchmade AFCK (Axis lock) D2 steel full blade no seration


-no thumb flick needed to open, just thrust down and then pull up, blade opens

-or hold back axis and use like butterfly knife

-or put zip-tie on thumb hole and when you pull it out of your pocket it opens automaticly!!!!!!!!!!

(don't worry its all legal , just search on bladeforums its really cool) <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

FWIW, my choice for safest lock would be, and is, the Axis Lock, one reason I waited until I was able to collaborate with Benchmade on the RSK Mk1. http://www.equipped.org/pop_up_axis_lock.htm A well done Frame Lock, such as used on the Sebenza, is probably as strong or stronger, but isn't as "safe" since is requires you to put your finger in the path of the blade when closing and can be not fully engaged if opened too slowly. Both SOG and Cold Steel make locks similar in function to the Axis Lock, so my comments would be similar for them. Liner locks have their problems and when they fail, they generally do not do so as you expect, but suddenly. A good quality liner lock is just fine, but there are saferand stronger locks out there and not all liner locks are good. If your Gerber truly has a "brass" liner, I'd be inclined to feel that was not appropriate material. Liner locks should be steel or titanium, or similar high strength materials, in my opinion.

It is brass, and I agree that stainless would be a stronger choice.

It was a gift and based on the way it was designed to be used, and even if I were to use it in a combat type (Which it is not designed for.) situation, I would feel secure knowing that it will not close on my hand. This knife is of the old school with a fingernail groove in the stiff opening blade and is not designed for one-handed opening or closing, so I have to be paying attention when I close it.

I would never try to use the back of the blade for prying, which to my way of thinking is the only method that large unnecessary pressure would be put on the liner lock.

Like I said earlier, the shape of the handle, the sweep of the 3-1/16" blade make its use primarily for skinning, cutting on a block, or cutting away from you.

I'm gonna have to learn how to put pictures on my posts, because this little bugger is fairly unique in shape compared to what is out there now in folders.

Bountyhunter