Do you have more details? links?

I bought the Aquablox/Aqualiterz specifically for keeping in my truck for worst case scenario, emergency use only. I needed something that could withstand the high temperatures that we encounter during the long hot summers here in Houston, TX. I liked that it met the U.S. Coast Guard requirements for drinking water stored in a life raft that state that "The water in the container must be sterile and free from organic matter, sediment and odor" and "The water must be suitable for storage in the container and retaining its sterility for a period of five years in temperatures ranging from -30°C to +65°C (-22°F to +149°F)". I haven't seen anything in the grocery store that would compare.

EMP,

You sound like someone who likes to research things themselves. So here's a link to get you started and you can check all the sub documents from there.

http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg5214/survivalequip.asp

Scroll down about 2/3 of the page to see the emergency water overview.

Note the details about seem sealing, drop testing, tumble testing, temperature and more.

Hope this helps and good luck in your research.

Ok, which part of that talks about chemical contamination from the packaging, ie leaching?

Does this address what you had in mind??

Found under Procedures for Approval, part B

9. Internal corrosion. If the container is a metal can, two filled and sealed cans of water must be immersed in boiling water for 6 to 8 hours. At the end of the boiling period they must be cooled to room temperature. The cans must then be placed upright in a freezing compartment at approximately -20 C (-4 F) for 16 hours. The cycle of alternating boiling and freezing must be continued until six cycles have been completed. After the freezing portion of the cycle, the frozen cans may be immersed directly in the boiling water for the next cycle, or held at room temperature until it is convenient to start the next cycle. At the completion of the six cycles, the water in the cans, and the water in two cans not subjected to the temperature cycling must be chemically analyzed. The water in the cycled cans must not show an increase in products of corrosion as compared to the uncycled cans.

Yep, just my bad math
(probably, a sporadic value stuck in the calculator earlier and was used in addition to the numbers above 34.95/60/4.225).

Hi, not really no
as far as I can tell,
the standard/tests are mostly about preserving flavor/taste,
and making sure the seals don't fail, the can doesn't rust , mechanical stuff


You can also see this part of same page/document


None of those are tests for leaching of chemicals.
The advertising for all these different emergency drinking water
says "U.S. Coast Guard Approved" but they don't mention leaching.

I imagine if there is zero leaching, that fact would be advertised.
The salt could be used to maintain the taste.

I understand that water is essentially the universal solvent - more compounds will dissolve in water than in any other liquid (there are probably chemists on this forum who will blast away at this statement and further edify us).

What I do is fill canteens with plain old tap water and throw them in my vehicle (and other locations), where they remain for some months until consumed. They are generally in the dark. I have done this for years, if not decades, with no ill effects.

Are there reports of anyone suffering ill effects from consuming water that met USCG standards? I suspect that in the usual emergency you would be in much worse shape if you did not consume the water, even if some chemical had leached into it.

I'm not sure why the big concern with buying packaged water for your vehicle. For a longer term emergency situation - OK but AquaBlox is awfully expensive to go that route.

I use regular bottled water bought by the 35-40 500 ml bottles in slats. The other day I paid ~$4.50 for 40 bottles. I can store 7 litres in my car at any given time and I do all year round. I consume then recycle the bottles. They hardly ever freeze - even on the cold prairies of Canada since I garage the car in an semi-heated 0*C garage every night. The vehicle has to get to -15*C for an extended period before I have ice forming. That may seem to deny the laws of physics and chemistry but really it takes a while to chill the car off and secondly water in a closed container doesn't freeze at Zero. However, if you take the same bottle of water that has been in freezing temperatures and give it a good shake, ice will form. Or if you release the cap and change the air pressure, the water will instantly create some ice. Even when the bottle is frozen solid, I have never had a bottle burst yet. If it is frozen I simply swap it out for a thawed one.

Summer time is no big deal either - even when the car is 40*C or higher inside, the only thing the water does is get warm and the plastic gets a bit more malleable.

I drink water quite often while driving (especially on long trips) and I don't care if it teeth chattering cold or coffee hot. I have a constant turnover of the water in the car between myself and my passengers.

Store Roarmeister's bottled water in a simple cooler and the added insulation will extend the time needed to freeze that water. Even if the water did freeze and a bottle burst, the cooler would contain the water so nothing in the car trunk would get wet. I keep a cooler in my truck with water year round -- warmer in winter, cooler in summer. FWIW