The number bicycle repairs in the field depend on the quality of the bicycle components chosen and especially the quality of wheels. I don't use a narrow chain for 9-10 speed drive trains. I only use DT Swiss stainless steel spokes. Bicycle frames are usually high alloy steel for comfort and resilience. My current bicycle frame is a Columbus Nivachrome steel frame I silver soldered together 20 years ago.
I've heard to many horror stories with folks using Carbon Fibre parts breaking. Much of todays cycle parts are overpriced rubbish. I'm still a fan of square taper bottom brackets Campagnolo standards and 7 speed drive trains.

Finding parts is now getting quite difficult but there is NOS vintage kit, which is excellent quality. For example to replace the headset on my current bicycle

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-NOS-NEW-NIB-Shimano-600EX-HP-6207-BSA-BSC-headset-/391319158318

Thanks. That's definitely an important thing to keep in mind. All three of my mountain bikes have a dedicated mounting plate for a stand.

Its Christmas time and just like the Flashlight threads, the Bicycle tool talk has now giving me some more temptations...


http://www.steel-vintage.com/carrera-nos-frameset-columbus-el-detail

Now all I need to find is a NOS Campagnolo Super Record Groupset or Dura Ace from the 1990s..

I don't care for kickstands - they tend to be rather unreliable. I prefer locking the bike to a sturdy upright or else laying the bike down gently, derailleur side up. Dedicated bike stands are fairly common these days.

Consider carrying a few pairs of nitrile or similar gloves for dealing with greasy repairs. Also handy if you must deal with another's blood or other fluids.

If you want high reliable and low maintenance, go for enclosed parts. So rollerbrakes, interal hub gears, enclosed chains and sprockets.

My communter bike has shimano roller brakes, 3 speed shimano nexus internal hub gears, enclosed sprockets and chain. Also close fitting mudguards, bolted on led front and back lights, cargo carrier and bungees, puncture resistant tires and ofcorse a bell. All mounted on a heavy duty frame. Requires very little maintenance and keeps you clean.

Not just CF. Many of the MB's these days use aluminum alloys to get the weight down and then they need to add shocks to help with the impact. My old MB has a Cro-Moly frame and parts that were high-end 20 years ago -- they're still fairly high-end parts. If you choose to get a bike, buy quality. If money is an issue, buy a quality used bike rather than a new bike that will never get that old.

Steel is real (and rides nicely)

You really don't need a kickstand or bell. I've been riding for 40+ years and carry a whiste around my neck on a ball chain. Bells and kickstands add unecessary weight, and if you carry what most people are suggesting, your bike will weigh in at 30-40lbs PLUS you! Hope you got some good granny gears cuz you'll need em. Spare tires don't weight much if you're going LONG distance. If your taking your time touring, I got a bag that mounts between the handle bars with a clear map pocket on the top. I've had it over 30 years now and it's still going strong. I carry a CO2 tire inflator system, and have had it fail just once in over ten years. That's averaging about 2500 miles a year, so not that much mileage at all. A small under seeat saddle bag to carry the essentials. I don't carry spokes, cuz you can true a wheel just fine if one breaks. You'd need to lose a couple in the same area of the wheel to make it unridable, but that is unlikely. If that should happen you're probly on the ground in pain anyway. Good riding shorts...DO NOT scimp on these. They have literally saved me on a number of occasions. And nutbutter for saddle sores. Cuz you'll get those too.

True, but that also depends on where one is riding and the distances that need to be covered. It sounds like you're describing the standard Dutch bike, which is suitable for fairly short commuting distances at a leisurely pace in a not-very-hilly area and has the advantage of making it easy to ride in one's work clothing etc. Certainly the low-maintenance aspect is also helpful. However, a bike like that would not work as well for many of us in North America where distances that need to be covered tend to be longer and there may be lots of hills to contend with depending on the region. For that situation, a bike with more gears (and I think internal hubs only go up to 8-speed) and a more efficient riding position is needed. It's all about choosing the right bike for your particular application. That said, I definitely agree with you about the fenders (mudguards)! It's nice to be able to ride on wet roads without getting dirty. Having a rack for cargo is also highly recommended. On that note, for those who may be picking out a bike that they intend to use for any commuting/transportation purposes: Make sure it has attachment points for a rack and fenders…many bikes nowadays do not (most road bikes, for example). Riding with a backpack is really uncomfortable and completely unnecessary if you set your bike up properly.

wow, lots of great information shared by everyone so far, I'm loving it and thanks to everyone who has contributed so far, I'm going to make some general comments here to hopefully help clear some things up.

First, as we're getting three bikes and our budget is fairly slim we're going for lower end bikes to start, we ordered these for like 60 bucks each on a black friday sale. The reviews on it were generally good and I grew up riding lower end bikes (huffy usually) so I know pretty much what we're getting into.

Next, our intended riding will likely be just here close to home, at local camp grounds, or on gravel type trails with the boy scout troop. The trail rides are mainly just day rides, the longest being 25 miles so far (note here, due to DS's inexperience on a bike we did not actually go on that ride we just camped and he rode a bike close to the area we camped in). When camping is involved it does not require us to have the ability to carry our camping gear on the bike with us. So my main concern is to have the tools needed to do minor repairs on our bikes when away from home, away from the campsite at the campground, or on the trail with the troop, and if it doesn't add too much weight and space wise, with the capability to make repairs on other bikes as needed on the trail with the troop. For ourselves, until we get our feet wet, I'd expect not to be more than a mile or two at most from home or camp site.

I really appreciate all the input on the bike specific stuff. I think it goes without saying I anticipate carrying other gear on my person or in a pack or possibly attached to the bike frame in a pack (options and suggestions here would be greatly appreciated as far as carry and attachment options go although I think several have already been mentioned, such as the rack, saddle bags and other assorted packs) to supplement the bike specific gear. I was thinking maybe a small pack with a hydration bladder and some of the ten essentials (plus the 11th that several folks have mentioned). Maybe an emergency blanket and a mini survival kit to round things out.

The first aid kit and helmets are great suggestions. I'm thinking knee and elbow pads and gloves might be a good idea too. I also plan to see what tools I will need specifically for repairs on our bikes, but as i mentioned above I'd also like the capability to make repairs on other bikes if it won't add to much weight to the kit (for when we ride with the troop in the future). I also noticed the bikes we ordered have very little in the way of included storage options so we'll likely be looking at getting some to attach to it (in particular a behind the seat rack). DW has already found a starter kit that includes a pump, water bottle and cage, front and rear lights and a few other doo dads for like 20 bucks.

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