Just a quick note that Duracell will repair or replace a device that is damaged by a leaking battery:

http://www.duracell.com/en-us/guarantee

"Should any device be damaged due to a battery defect, we will repair or replace it at our option. Leaking battery and damaged device must be provided as proof of claim."

I have had them replace a number of fairly expensive flashlights in the not too distant past. These days I am using Kirkland brand AA and AAA batteries from Costco if I am not using Lithium cells, which is what I use for critical power sources.

I don't store them inside my electronics either, except for the flashlight on me. I always need my light right away when I need it. I'm willing to take the chance of damage.

I've had at lease one leak from all major brands, rayovac being the worst.
NiMH can leak, so far I've had an off brand and a RadioShack NiMH leak.

If they work (if the voltage is high enough), the only reason not to use them is cost. NiMH cost sufficiently more, and alkaline last sufficiently long in such applications, that even with recharging you won't break even in any reasonable time. Personally I don't mind paying the premium, because it's good to have spare Eneloops.

As for family members throwing them away... that's a matter of education. Alkalines shouldn't be thrown away with household waste anyway (at least in the UK), so old batteries should be treated different to random junk. Rechargeables are an area worth making an effort to educate about, in my opinion.

I have had a few Duracells leak, but not many.

I now buy only the Duracell industrial cells, previously known as Procell. I do this not because the industrial cells are better since AFAIK they are exactly the same product. I favour the industrial version because they are less well known, not intended to be sold retail, and are therefore hopefully always genuine rather than fakes.

Duracells are widely sold retail at high prices and I suspect that a lot of them are fakes. I wonder how many of the leaking cells were fakes ?

For anything very expensive, or safety critical I now use the Energiser L91 lithiums.

Duracell industrial batteries are about one third of the price of lithium batteries, a consideration if buying quantities, in the event of any large scale or long term emergency, I would rather have 300 alkaline AAs than 100 lithium AAs.

I am whittling away at a box of 48 AA alkalines plus some AAAs from Costco, their Kirkland brand.

I have seen a few corroded batteries recently but I think it is primarily because I was feeling paranoid and checked everything I have installed.

I have a distant memory of an alkaline battery test in Consumer Reports a long time ago. If memory serves they noted three tiny dimples in the bottom of the Kirkland batteries that matched the Duracell batteries. Suggestive, but neither manufacturer would confirm or deny, if I recall correctly.

My current Kirkland AAs have two tiny dimples, but I do not have any Duracells to which to compare.

I like Eneloops and other rechargeables, but for some uses primary (non-rechargeable) batteries are better. For these I use Titanium CR123A or Energizer Lithium AA or AAA cells.

Make sure that CR123A cells in particular are matched (same manufacturer and state of charge) in multiple-cell devices. I use a pulse-load battery tester (this one: http://www.batteryjunction.com/zts-mbt.html) to be sure. If you don't have a pulse-load battery tester be sure always use new cells from the same manufacturer when putting two or more in a device, otherwise you may have a "vent with flame" event.

While this level of caution is a good thing you're very unlikely to have "vent with flame" event in AA or AAA cells.

I have heard one report that Energizer Lithium batteries leaked in a device, but I haven't seen it or heard it more than once.

(I have no affiliation with any manufacturer or seller of batteries)

I don't use alkalines in anything important; over the years I've had a number of them leak, ruining the device. I buy the Kirkland ones and have never had a problem but 1) I've only been buying them for two years and 2) I only use them in throw-away flashlights and in my computer mouse at home.

So far I've never had a lithium cell leak, although I suppose it could happen someday. I've used CR123a cells in my lights for many years and never had an issue. The AAA & AA lithium batteries seem pretty robust as well.

Leaking and simply the cost off (money and environment) throw away batteries, ment i switched over to lots of Eneloops and a proper chargers years ago.

I only use Alkalines when the devices really requires them or it came with the device and i still have to use them up.

So far, knock on wood, I've never had a Kirkland alkaline leak. That is not the case for either Duracell or Energizer. Still, I only use alkalines as a last resort and do my best to remember to remove them from a device after use and strap them to the side with a rubber band or tape.

I use Eneloops and protected CW rechargeable lithiums now, as much as possible.

My wife recently trashed her 1xAAA cell Fenix flashlight with battery leakage. The battery was in there maybe a year, with very intermittent use. It really welded itself in there. I had the bright idea that I could get it out by drilling a small hole in the battery, inserting a screw, and pulling it out. Warning! Use caution and wear full protective gear if you attempt this stupid idea like I did! I filled the flashlight body with Kroil (a super penetrating oil) and let it soak overnight before clamping the flashlight in my bench vice and trying to pull on the screw with a pair of pliers. Man, was that battery stuck. I was pulling UP from the vice (a mistake!) When that screw finally yanked out, the battery was left inside the flashlight and I had a nice pliers-sized gash in my lip where they violently made contact. I still have a lump there, 6 weeks later. Do not attempt this stunt, boys and girls!