I am in need of some new glacier rope and am considering the Ice Floss 7.7mm (a 37m hank). Although it is a twin, I do not expect to use it for alpine work. Mostly as a single line in low impact exposed situations. Has anyone had any experience - good or bad - with this? Any other suggestions would be appreciated. I am particularly interested in its handling and kinking tendencies.

Thanks,

Jerry

No experience with that particular rope, but I have used Bluewater ropes (BW II) and liked them - quite good handling. Just to add to your options, Inner Mountain Outfitters offers dynamic ropes of various diameters (PMI) by the foot http://www.innermountainoutfitters.com/pmi-dynamic-rope-by-the-foot/ The 8.1mm and 8.6mm might be worth considering.

I am thinking about a similar sized rope for comparable applications...

How is it that diameter is measured in millimeters and length by the foot? Someday maybe we will go metric like everyone else....

No experience with Bluewater ropes. Importent note on super thin ropes; check if you gear will work with 7.7mm rope!

If you set it up primairly for crevasse safety/rescue (Hauling people out of crevasses or ascending the rope to crawl out of a crevasse), 5mm (the thinnest prussik size) or 6mm prussiks will not bite well and thus slip. Especially on newer slick and/or ropes with some coating on it.

So the lighter weightness of the rope might be lost with replacing prussics with teethed devices like ascenders/progress capture pulleys. I personally do not know any ascenders or progress capture pulleys which will accept rope under 8mm. So pay attention to that.

Ofcorse teethed devices might be needed if you plan on going somewhere in certain conditions where you rope might ice up.

My personal opinion: take relatively thick threated (waterrepellant, so it wont sock up water and become heavy) rope (9.8 to 10.2mm), which means it will be compatible with prussiks and pretty much all ascenders/progress capture pulleys. Logistic wise much easier and people in your rope group do not need to buy new gear to be compatible with thinner ropes. Everybody in the group should have rescue gear on them. I manage to find crevasses front, middle and back positions on rope groups. Having prussics means weight and money saved on teethed gear. Weight savings on thinner rope in that lenght with the logistic issues might not be lighter.

I have used new 7.8mm double rope for multipitching and it's scary thin and belay/rappelling is hard.

check if you gear will work with 7.7mm rope!


Good advice! I just did and all Black Diamond devices(my fave) will work with 7.7 to 11mm rope. They don't say what will happen with 7.7 after a bit of use wear...

Wear on ropes make them fuzzier and cause more friction. Wear on tube style belay devices causes them to get sharp at locations.

As for minium thickness, some manufacture specify a full range of minimum and maximum thickness regardless of rope type, some do that per rope type. Food for thought.

Example the petzl reverso 4; "Rope compatibility: - for half ropes (8 mm or greater diameter) and twin ropes (7.5 mm or greater diameter) and on single ropes (8.9 mm or greater diameter)"

For newbies.

I don't know about icy conditions, but a Tibloc with a fat round bar stock locking carabiner holds on the twin ropes I have, in dry conditions.



http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Ascenders/TIBLOC#.VOdfG0sbRuZ

For 7.7 with icy conditions they MAY work, but you should do checking and testing, and always have some kind of backup/redundacy.

When traveling very light, I find a Munter hitch on that same carabiner works well for the occasional belay/rappel. (To much constant use tends to put twists in the rope with a Munter)


And something I found but have no experience using-the super Munter.
http://www.animatedknots.com/muntersuper...imatedknots.com

Good find.

I want some dynamic rope for leashes on sport climbs and no one around here carries such.

Tjin,

Great point, but my Petzl Micro Traxions are rated for 7mm and my ATC for 7.7. I also often use water rescue rope or marine line for prussiks for better grip. That is, however one of the reasons for my question. I don't know how slick the coating on the Ice Floss is. I have used 8.1 mm for glacier line for a while and have been happy with it using prussiks or ascenders (I started with 7/16 Goldline). I like to use pulley's in my Z and have carried them for years (especially when 2 up). The Traxions make it even easier.

Your thoughts on larger rope poses a good discussion point though. The difference in weight for a good single line is not high. All my equipment will work on the larger line. The question is if the weight provides any particular advantage? Since my equipment and that of my colleagues will work, I am not sure I see any advantage either.

Thanks.

Respectfully,

Jerry