ireckon.. the straight wall pistol calibers typically use a sizing die with a carbide insert that doesn't need any lubrication.. for the .40SW use a Lee sizing die as they size further down the case, which heads off some chambering problems down the line... typically the sizing die also punches out the spent primer, a new primer is inserted by hand or by a primer punch built into the loader, powder is dispensed by volume, and is dropped through a hollow die that bells the case mouth slightly so the new bullet can be inserted easily... the seating die pushes the bullet to the correct depth in the case, and a final taper crimp die re forms the belled case mouth parallel (most modern autoloaders headspace the cartridge on the case mouth)... a revolver will have a roll crimp that rolls the case mouth into a cannelure formed into the bullet, so the bullet does not move under recoil...single stage presses require that the die is changed for each step, so you typically work 50 pieces of brass at a time... a progressive press is a continuous process where the cartridge cases are moved from one station to another with each pull of the handle, and after a complete rotation you get a loaded round with each pull of the handle... you need a good reloading manual... a powder scale to adjust the powder charge dropped by the powder measure... drop 10 charges and move the decimal ie... 43 grains for 10 drops is 4.3 grains per single drop... a caliper to measure the overall loaded length is helpful... stand up to reload, and place a light over your loader so you can inspect that the cases have been charged...a bottleneck case like the .308 takes a lot more pressure to work it through the die, and is typically lubricated... an expander ball will be forced down and back up the case mouth.... bottle neck cases grow with multiple firings, while straight wall cases typically shorten.. military brass may have the primers staked in, and you will need to ream or swage the primer pockets the first time... cases will need to be checked for overall length, and if they get too long, will prematurely grab the bullet in the cannelure, and push the shoulder back while the bullet is being seated, causing chambering problems....start with the straight walled pistol calibers first....if you load primers into tubes, don't stand over the tube in case of a sympathetic detonation... all lead compounds are poisonous, so wash you hands and don't smoke or eat while reloading...other than Lee dies, I recommend the higher end presses from Dillon like the 550 and up...most of the manuals have step by step instructions.... the .40SW is a high pressure round, so do your research on the burn rate recommended for the powder...I got good standard deviation with Win 748 powder in my M1A....I don't load .40SW any longer, so am not up on the current powders, but I think most of the USPSA guys use something along the burn rate of Hodgdon Tite Group