Added some space to my packs -
A small duffel (9x21) lashed to the top or bottom adds some extra space. Kind of like a small sleeping bag. Gives me room for a bit more on my day and mid-sized packs.

Good call! You can keep stuff together that way, too.

Great idea.

I'm looking to add a water bottle pocket to a camera pack. Going to try to do it by mounting one of these with large snaps at each corner.

I've been using that device for years to give me backup carrying capacity, especially on my small EDC back pack. I had a shoe repair shop sew two small Fastex lash patches to the bottom of my Tom Binh Synapse daypack. As needed, I can fit to those patches a nylon belt pouch, ~9" x 6" x 2", that BQ used to sell. The pouch rides in the pack, filled with sundries. This arrangement can give me about an extra 100+ cu. in. of storage. Enough, for example, to fill & carry my plastic water bags, if I have to walk home. The patches also have other cargo carry options.

Its mostly for light things - fleece, blankets, shoes, food, etc.

Strapping stuff to the outside of the backpack is the typical solution when you need to carry a bit more than might fit inside. Good backpack should provide lashing options readily available (e.g. side compression cord is the most versatile). The rule of thumb - heavy stuff rides closer to the top, light things (like a jacket) - to the bottom. That helps to maintain balance while moving in the woods.

Versatility is enhanced when you can strap stuff to the outsdie of the pack, but danglies make it easy to get hung up on brush, rocks, etc. The ideal is a fully loaded, smoothly contoured pack that slips effortlessly past obstacles (I can dream, can't I??)

Isn't MOLLE good only with compatible modules?

Nah, you can attach just about anything to it. Snap link, zip ties, string, they all work to attach things.

That's the catch for me. The only pack that I've found with a decent amount of space inside AND a decent amount of camera space only has a shallow mesh pocket on the outside. The bags I've looked at that have good outside attachment points outside (tripod plus a proprietary system that looks like it will work with molle) only have one large compartment with velcro & foam dividers.

No law against breaking out the old needle and thread and adding a bit of custom work. i don't have a sewing machine, but hand work does just fine for small jobs.

I have messed around with MOLLE gear a fair amount. At first I was thrilled to have the modularity. But I quickly found that all those straps, snaps, clips, and webbing ladders add weight fast. They also hold on to water and grime. The top tier military units acknowledge that it is a game of ounces, not pounds, and they have adapted by using less MOLLE/PALS when possible and using lighter weight versions when available.

Fortunately there are a few manufacturers (like Blue Force Gear) that have innovated some excellent lightweight versions of the MOLLE system. I have some of their stuff on my chest rig but it ain't cheap. You won't find it for $5.99 on eBay.



Amen to that. I used to use the Speedy Stitcher. They offer thread in any color you like as long as it's tan. Nowadays I use the Awl for All because I like its thread feed system better. It's less likely to bind and you can control the thread tension easily with your finger. They also make tough thread in many more colors.

ITW Grimlocs can be handy for attaching pouches such as a DPM Camo 3 Litre Camelbak with D rings to a British Army Issue to a PLCE NI Patrol Pack. They are handy for those PALS MOLLE panels as well.



Other light weight kit such as roll/inflatable sleeping mats or sleeping bags etc can be added by using PLCE Self Locking Utility Straps IRR Treated with plastic buckle.

http://www.surplusandoutdoors.com/shop/c...ity-507732.html

and Bungee cords such as the Niteize Knotbone adjustable Bungee Cords.

http://www.niteize.com/product/KnotBone-Adjustable-Bungee.asp

I have the Speedy in my BOB too - great tool!

Could you use Dacron B-50 bowstring for the Awl in All? There are more colors than the Awl in All site offers. That is, of course, if you really need to select from 13 or so colors.

Where do you get good string for sewing on your packs. I've found a lot of places selling fabric but not much in the way of thread, found a few that you contact them and they will qive you a quote. I have a small MOLLE pouch that I wanted to modify but since I've been able to find the fabric I thought I'd just make a dup of it to start with and integrate my mods and leave the original alone. I'm looking for the normal milspec string they set the MOLLE straps with.

I just slap my buttpack onto my new assault pack if I need to carry extra stuff. Also, a store near where I live will sell pouches to attach to packs, or even sew pouches onto a pack you already have.

Eugene, I recommend upholstery thread. Go to the Coats & Clark brand rack of a million colors of thread and look for the one or two that have a gold and purple label that says "100% Nylon" and "Upholstery". It's very strong compared to regular thread.

If you're using a lot of it, look on ebay for a 1 lb cone of #69 bonded nylon thread.

For use with a sewing machine, you really want a #16 needle or at least a #18. I also tried a "jeans" needle which is large but it didn't work well for me.

Use 7-8 stitches per inch and go easy. Short of a commercial walking-foot machine, older all-metal home machines work best.

Yeah, that's my general philosophy. I don't like a lot of stuff on the outside of the pack. There are a few notable exceptions, however. In winter time my avalanche shovel rides on the outside of my pack. In a burial situation, seconds count, and the advantages of quick access to the shovel outweigh my desire for a smoothly contoured pack.

If one's financial constraints make it difficult/impossible to buy a new pack, then it probably makes good sense to do a "Backpack hack". But if one can afford it, I think it is better to just buy a somewhat larger pack. Get one somewhat bigger than you think you will need. Most good packs have some sort of compression staps arrangement, and if one is carrying less stuff, one just cinches the pack down a bit snugger.

I've looked at various modular pack designs over the years, with a daypack or fannypack that clips onto a larger pack. Generally I have not been overly impressed with them. In my opinion, you tend to end up with a clunky hybrid. These designs often seem to be heavier as well. All of the extra straps, buckles, and other material necessary to make a modular hybrid just add more weight to the pack itself. In my experience, if you want a small daypack to go along with your larger pack, then a better way is to pick a good design for the larger main pack. Then carry a really light weight daypack inside of it, such as an REI Flash (weighs 11 oz) or something similar. When you're not using it as a separate daypack, you can use it inside the main pack as an organizer stuff bag. The Marmot Kompressor is slightly larger, but only weighs one ounce more.

That is my way of thinking, anyway. Your experiences, situation or choices may differ, of course.

Mountainsmith developed a system some years ago featuring a main pack (6000+ cu in) with detachable straps. They could be transferred to a much smaller and lighter bag (2500 cu in) that served as a day/summit pack and as a stuff sack. Worked like a charm for me on a climb of Mt.Whitney, and on other occasions.

I have repaired my backpacks broken carry-strap with innerstrands from paracord.

There are also several packs with lids that are removable and function as extra space and as a waist pack.