As a tree grows, it sometimes picks up rocks near its base. For this reason, if you use a chain saw, buy your own with a bar long enough for you to use comfortably (even if it does not extend the full diameter of the stump). Buy extra chains and a chain sharpening tool with extra files or grinder wheels. Invest in, rent or borrow all the safety protection you can get your hands on (Hard hat, full face shield, safety glasses (redundency), shin and foot guards, leather golves, and whatever else the professionals may think you need for the job.

Something most people do not know about chains is that "safety or anti-kickback" saw chains have a bumper built in front of the each cutting tooth that prevents the chain from grabbing too much wood when it cuts. Professional saw chains do not have this bumper, but depend on the built-in bumper on each tooth. When they come packaged the built in bumper has a slightly lower height than the cutting tooth. Every time you do extensive (not the occasional touch-up sharpening as you work.) sharpening of the teeth, you have to file down the bumper on each tooth so that the clearance between bumper and tooth on the entire chain is the same. They have a step measuring device for this purpose which you should buy with the sharpening equipment. How deep a step you use depends on the power of the saw and your ability to control the saw as it cuts. Deeper clearance requires more power from you and the saw. The clearance I use on my Homelite Super Easy with a 16" bar is 25 thousands and I get a nice even shaving so long as the blade stays sharp. If you start making sawdust, it is time to resharpen the blade. If you hit something that dings even one tooth, it is time to stop, sharpen, and reset the bumper height of all the teeth. You should recheck the bumper height clearance every 4 to 5 "touch-up" resharpenings and reset as necessary.

When cutting wood, the only speeds while starting, continuing, or ending the cut is full speed or chain rotation off. First off, place yourself in a solid control position that you can control your power from. Do not try to start a cut with a slow speed, but instead control the pressure you put on the piece as you go in. If the chain binds, let go of the throttle immediately or you will burn out the clutch trying to "horse" it through. Use a wood wedge to clear the bind, back off a little, go full speed and continue the cut.

I go along with the cross-hatching of what is left, except when I get as far down into the stump as I can, I pour gasoline in the slots and set it on fire. Several fire sessions, and the stump will disappear faster than just useing tree rotting enzymes.

I personally do not like "safety or anti-kickback" chains as they slow down the amount the teeth can cut and therefore the speed at which you can cut. On the other hand, I fell quite comfortable using chain saws and I am such a safety freak in terms of what I put on when useing one. If you are new to chain saws, make your own decisions or hire someone who can do it better.

Be safe first, and good luck will follow!

Bountyhunter