Hello Everyone, (long post here)

Sorry about the delay in posting results. But here they are..

I think it is important to state that this testing was done by myself - as a personal owner of these products, in no way was it endorsed, sponsored, or funded by ETS...All observations and opinions expressed below are simply my own as a consumer and user of the products..

Now, having said that...

I recieved both with in the last 3 weeks. I ordered directly from the manufacturer Survival inc. off their web site www.ultimatesurvival.com .

The Strike Force and Blast Match are both flint bar and steel/tungsten carbide strikers designed for survival fire lighting use. The main difference between the 2 being that the Blast Match is designed to be used with only one hand.

On to equipment specs:

The Blast Match: Cost: 19.95 +S&H . It comes in one color, black. weight is 2.55 oz ( weighed on Tanita digital scale ) Dimentions are: 3 7/8 inches long, 1 1/2 inches wide, and 1.0 inch "tall" .

The Blast Match is designed for use as a one-handed ignition system . A sliding cover compresses a spring loaded flint bar. The cover is released by applying upward pressure on a small release latch, which also serves as the leverage point/button for the hidden tungsten/carbide blade. The cover pivots back to the end of the unit via 2 plastic arms and recessed rails on the sides of the unit . A small, slit type lanyard hole is at the end of the unit. ( approx. 3/4 in L , 1/8 in H )

The Strike Force: cost 11.95 US + S&H. Comes in either black, or safety orange colors, ( I chose orange ) and includes one piece of packaged "wet fire" tinder ( also sold on the web site ) which is stored in the flint bar handle. Also included is a black nylon braided cord which serves as "cap keeper " for the tinder compartment cap, as well as fastening device. Weight ( with tinder ) is 3.70 ozs, with tinder cube. ( weighed on Tanita digital scale) Dimensions : 5.0 in Long x 1 1/8 in Wide x 7/8 in "high". it is important to note that there are no square angles on the Blast Match, it has an oval/torpedo shaped body.

The Strike Force was designed as a two handed ignition system, and is comprised of 2 seperate pieces that snap together. The flint and striker blade pieces are connected with the above mentioned nylon cord. The flint rod piece has a hollow handle approximately 1 1/2 in L. x 15/16 W x 5/8 H that has a tethered lid. The striker blade portion is a hardened steel "blade" secured in the plastic handle.

On to testing and performance:

Phew, glad the physical descriptions are done with... That was a pain. Anyone wanting to see photos of these products should go the the above mentioned website.

I tested both these items in "wild conditions" - meaning dirt, sky, rock, wood, grass, and water only. No barbecue pits, no picnic tables, and other than impact testing - no concrete or asphalt.

other than the following tinders nothing else was used: Wet Fire tinder, Tinder Quick tabs, generic cotton balls impregnated with melted Vaseline, and trioxane tabs.

Test observations - Blast Match ( BM )

Overall:

My first attempts with the BM were somewhat sucessful, but I was annoyed with a few things right off the bat. Since this product was advertised as a "one handed" fire starter, my preliminary testing was done using only ONE hand. This proved problematic from the get-go.

Opening the BM with only one hand while dry was challenging and required the use of my two front teeth to do so. Opening the BM after I had jumped in the lake ( yes, I actually did this.. granted I AM in South Florida) was downright annoying. The rounded design, and slick plastic case made it slippery to handle. A para-cord lanyard I added prior to testing helped alot. The black color of the case is something I consider a liability. Due to its small size/color if it is dropped unknowingly it will more than likely be lost altogether.

The design of the BM requires the user to push down on the unit while applying finger pressure to the striker/blade tab to produce sparks. This requires the tip of the flint bar to be in contact with the ground, wood, etc. This proved to be problematic . Operating the BM one handed it was very difficult to arrange tinder, wood, etc in a stable enough platform to withstand the downward force needed to make sparks. In damp ground the flint bar repeatedly plunged into the dirt rather than making sparks, requiring repeated rinsing and drying.

Pros and Cons:

Pros: If used correctly the BM can and will make sufficient sparks for a great fire. The ability to use the BM one handed, once opened is a plus. The BM showers sparks exteremely close to the tinder, increasing the probability of ignition.

Cons: Annoyingly hard to open one handed. The BM is fragile and prone to breakage. ( the instructions from the manufacturer include a specific warning about not allowing the flint bar to " bend out of line with the Blast Match body" - the body may snap off , or damage striker bar.) This is a SERIOUS liability in my book.

Test observation Strike Force:

Overall:

My first attempts at spark making were educational. It takes a number of strokes to remove the black oxidized finish on the flint bar. In addition to that, the angle and force used on the flint rod differs per stroke and requires a bit of practice, as well as producing drastically different results. Practice is requred to be able to shower sparks right ontop of the tinder.

The 2 separate pieces didn't prove to be a factor. Unfastening/refastening the caps was simple , and easily done while wet, or dirty. ( i'm sure the supplied nylon cord helped with this. )

Pros: Sturdy construction, storage space for tinder in handle, ability to sharpen steel blade, high visibilty color option. Doesn't require contact with solid surface to produce sparks

Cons: larger than the BM.. Requires a bit of skill to aquire ability to produce useable sparks effectively.

Impact Test: Both units were dropped 3 times from 8 feet onto concrete with the following results:

Blast Match:

1st drop : Unit popped open ( latch for cover was released due to shock ) .. slight case abrasion,,,

2nd drop : Unit popped open ( latch for cover was released due to shock) Cover was loosened and abraded, resisant to closing.

3rd drop: Unit popped open ( latch for cover was released due to shock ) flint cover was loosened.... Same closing condition. seemed like it was about to fall apart...

Srtike Force:

1st drop: No damage observed.

2nd drop: Tinder lid cover partially popped off.

3rd drop : Slight abrasion..


Overall Opinion:

Both the Blast Match and Strike Force can, and will produce sparks sufficient to make a fire under wet or dry conditions. A bit of work is required for both to do so. Both devices are much better than standard matches, and will last Eons longer if used properly.

However, the fragility of the Blast Match is its Achillie's heel.... . Cheaper plastic, the ability for the user to unintentionally break it, and otherwise flimsy construction make this a true liability in a survial situation.

The Strike Force requires practice, but is in my opinion as solid as a rock as a fire starting device. The option of High Visibility coloring is a big plus. If i drop it... I need to find it.



So, thats my 2 cents.... For whatever its worth...


Matt

Good post, but I have one minor nitpick. The fact that the BM is difficult to open with one hand (I've never had difficulty opening mine, but then I've never jumped in the lake to test it either <img src="images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> ) is not a liability when compared to a device that can't be used with one hand AT ALL.

The BM can be used with two hands; the SF can't be used with one. I think that deserves mention. <img src="images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

hey bat69: excellent after action report ..very usefull info and insight on these two items of equipment..i have both also and i use the strikeforce the most for just about the same reasons ..again great job.. <img src="images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> .vince g..

Great post, very informative.
I just wanted to add an observation of mine: I still think the Spark-Lite is THE best out there, I mean if they added a lanyard hole to it it would be perfect. <img src="images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I also love my Zippo and Bic. Bic I carry because if it is submerged and dried it still works and it is storable, the Zippo because of the wide range of fuels and space to store spare flints. (both of which can still be used to spark after they are out of fuel) Those are my three favorites. On my keychains I carry BSA hotsparks because:
1. They have a hole
2. They are cheap
3. They are easy to get (my local scout store is within a few miles from my house, I can always run and get more).
4. It can throw a wicked spark

For matches I like the strike-anywhere kitchen matches with the heads dipped in candle wax. If they made "strike anywhere kitchen size Nato match style" matches they would be perfect. <img src="images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
Again, great info.

i didn't have my blast match for very long at all before the metal blade embedded in the plastic popped out. after that i had no option but to take the whole thing apart and just use the 'flint' rod by itself. it puts out longer lasting sparks if you hit it with a hatchet...
it also gets considerably thinner if you hit it with a hatchet though.
i wouldn't recommend it at all.

I can imagine it does indeed. ( the hatchet )

The Blast Match was quite capable of making fire in all the conditions I tried it in, albeit annoying doing it one handed.

My main concern was in the durability of th BM. While I didnt experience a failure like you did, my impact testing pretty much "sealed the deal" for me.

Both are able to ignite tinder reliably, but for $9.00 less the Strike Force seems much more robust, and includes a place to store tinder.

Matt

For what it's worth, I kind of like to have both close at hand. Redundancy is almost always a good idea, and they don't cost THAT much.

P.S. I also like to have a mag. bar and striker with me too.

Troy

Matt - great post. You inspired me to give it a whirl with all the firestarters I've acquired in the last couple years, for "just in case." And my results? DISMAL. It's now very clear that it's the skills, not the gear. I'm humbly asking for some tips to make it go more successfully in the future.
I grew up in a rural area and feel rural at heart, but have been a city dweller since college. For years I lit fires in our fireplaces/Franklin stoves with matches and newspaper, and I think that's led to a bit of my overconfidence. I've never been a Boy Scout, and the camping I've done (not very recently, unfortunately) used a multi-gas stove.

I had to do my test in more controlled circumstances than Matt's - rooftop, in a small charcoal grill (to keep flames from the tarpaper roof). For tinder, I had some wood chips, vaseline-soaked cotton, "lightning bug" sawdust tabs, and fire ribbon.
My firestarters included: a strike-force, a magnesium/flint bar, a mini flint/magnesium firestarter, and a mini Bic.
Getting sparks was not a problem - all items drew sparks, some more successfully than others. The strike force seemed to consistently give the most volume/longest throw on sparks. Also, a variety of items worked as a striker - the small piece of hacksaw blade that came with the mini firestarter, the back of a carbon steel Mora, the back of an ATS-34 blade, the back of an AUS-8 stainless blade, and a P-38 can opener.
The problem was getting the sparks to catch. Since purchasing these items, I've tested the striker just to see how well the sparks fly, but not used them to start fires before (or, sadly, yet).

A couple things I noticed that helped during the test - rather than using the flat of the back of a blade, it improved spark output and throw to tilt it and use the corner. Also, the more pressure put on the striker, the more impressive the spark output.

I tried both pushing the striker forward, and holding the striker in place/pulling the flint back (I read that suggestion here on ETS) - neither seemed to make a difference, although the pull was a bit more awkward for me. My results tended to be - several sparks along the length of the flint, one or two leaping the inch or two the the tinder, and nothing catching. The Strike Force would put out a slightly higher volume of sparks/slightly longer throw (I think because the handle made it easier to grip firmly) - but still nothing wanted to catch - even a nice dollop of fire ribbon.
Same with the magnesium bits I scraped off. First, they didn't seem to come off very neatly - very irregular-sized shavings, and they tended to go all over, not into a neat pile. How big a pile do people usually create before trying to spark them? How thick/tightly packed is your pile? How big are your shavings (mine tended to look like 1/16-inch long or shorter bits of waste from drilling through metal - no long whittled bits).

I've been watching the Survivor All-Stars show (guilty pleasure), and when they gave them magnesium firestarters, I was sitting there criticizing the way they were hacking at them and getting feeble results. I'll clap a stopper on my armchair criticisms now <img src="images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

So, my list of questions:
--For the vaseline/cotton balls, how much vaseline? I read other posts, and softened the vaseline in the jar in the microwave and dipped the balls in - and they were sopping with vaseline. I've had it in film canisters, and yesterday when I tried to fish it out, I couldn't get a ball to come out - wisps of cotton suspended in vaseline came out. I'd read that I should fluff/shred it a bit, but it wasn't that easy to handle.
--How close are you holding your flints to the tinder when you strike? How far should I expect to throw sparks to get a successful fire, and what kind of volume of sparks should I expect to see to know I'm doing it correctly?
--Any vital details I'm missing on angle/pressure/how quickly to strike?
--I have trouble not bumping/jolting the tinder (or the tiny charcoal grill) if I'm doing a series of strikes.
--Any hints about shaving the magnesium/piling it/keeping a cohesive pile/how much to use?

This has been a great wake-up call for practice. If it had been one of the firestarters that I tried and it didn't work, I'd flatter myself that it was a Janet Jackson-style equipment malfunction, but I can't blame the tools for this one. I shudder to think about being in an emergency, trying to hold onto the mini flint with numb fingers and NEEDING a fire.
One comment on the fire ribbon - very impressive stuff. I think it would be good if they made very tiny tubes of it - like lip balm sized tubes.
Oh, and the mini-Bic? Lit everything quickly and easily. I'll continue to EDC a Windmill butane lighter and a mini Bic.

OK folks, please help the awkward ETS member.
Thanks
Dave

Dave,
I've had success with the vaseline-soaked cotton balls. The key is to use just a small amount of vaseline (my own trial and error) and be sure to "shred" the cottonball. The spark will catch easier to the shredded surface. I've also used a small amount of Chapstick with the cotton balls. You might also want to try Purell hand sanitizer, which is alcohol-based and catches pretty easily. You're right, the key is to practice.
As far as the firestarting devices, I've had good luck with the Sparklite and the small ferrocerium bars. I've never liked the magnesium bars, just seem to be too much trouble. And you can't beat a Bic lighter.

My only successful experience is with vaseline impregnated cotton :
I use those make-up remover cottonwool discs :
- I separate a disc in two discs,
- put a bit of petroleum jelly on a disc,
- squeeze the whole stuff in order to spread out the jelly
- and then tear it into pieces that I stuff into plastic straw bits (about 1.5 or 2 inches long).

And last time I tried, it easily caught fire with some sparks.... maybe not the first shower, but the second or third.
I just get the stuff out of the straw and fluff it a max.
And no, the cotton is not "soaked" with melted vaseline...

Hope it will help ...