If you go to bushcraftcanada.com I believe Paul( the owner) has some videos on using the DC4 and the smaller DC3.

Wow. Thanks much!

That's actually a very common observation of VG-10 knives in general. In pro kitchens it's considered a given that a VG-10 knife like a Shun or Hattori will chip a bit until you sharpen it a couple times.

Thanks Denis (& Nursemike too). I thought I was *supposed* to tie it down, and as you figured that's what I thought your paracord wrap was for. Now that you mention it, I recall the holes were in fact described for use as a neck knife, probably by Paul. D'oh!

Previously I only brought an Endura folder (my EDC, shortly to be changed) and a hatchet with me. No sheath knife. You probably know that the Endura is around the same size, and I find it comfortable to manipulate...that's the first thing that told me I'd like the F1, and having more handle meat + metal in there for balance made it an obvious good choice for me. I also like VG10, not too fancy for my sharpening "skills", and a decent hard-working steel IME. (That's what I meant by not copying you blindly.)

I have carried a Gerber BMF since 1985 and have been very satisfied with it. It is not small, and some places do not like the larger knives, but is is very durable and has withstood a tremendous amount of abuse. I recently bought a Winkler II belt knife and I love it. Expensive (a present to myself for a major accomplishment) but impressive in the woods. I am tough on knives and use (or abuse) them by doing things with them that most knives should never do. I used to break issue K-Bars like they were made of plastic.

The DC-4 or DC-3 Sharpener is essential, especially for the harder powdered ZDP-189, Lam.SGPS and 3G steels.

The capability to resharpening in the field is often overlooked with these expensive stainless super steels.

It's funny actually. I noticed this with all my field knives from fallkniven but not the kitchen knife. I purchased a fallkniven K1( lam VG10) and it hasn't shown a single chip in months of use. Real thin blade as well.

OTOH I dont baton with my K1 either.

I put a fairly low emphasis on sharpening in the field. For the most part I don't feel it's necessary, nor do I feel it's possible to do a good job sharpening that way. My method involved water stones in a progression up to pretty high grits. Or a belt sander for some types of knives. For the most part high end supersteels will hold an edge sufficiently long that resharpening in the field is unnecessary (at least for my purposes). If you badly chipped the edge it would be a real b!tch to fix that out in the sticks, anyways. Having a second knife is perhaps a better use of the weight and space than a full sharpening rig would be. All I generally carry is a ceramic hone or small strop.

That is a fine knife. If you lose it or you want a cheaper very similar version, check this out: http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Master-Stainless-Concealex/dp/B0011MYRN2.

Seems to fit most of your criteria - except for the exposed pommel.

I looked up the Gerber BMF and it has a solid reputation for toughness. They might do well to re-issue that.