There are two types of break-ins, one is targeted, and one is random. A random type is easier to deal with, all you have to do is make your house less attractive than your neighbors. If you're being targeted for a burglary, then you need to consider who and why they're targeting you, because you really can't stop someone who's determined to break in. In the end, if you live in a normal house, there is only so much you can do to prevent someone from breaking in. Houses just weren't designed to be that resistant. It's be easier to buy a large safe that is designed to keep things secure, as an added bonus you could use it to protect against fire which is probably a bigger risk than burglary.

RE: Locks. I wouldn't be overly concerned about the specific type of lock. Even though almost all locks have a weakness, it's usually not the weakest link in home security. As you mentioned, the door, the jamb, the windows, even the walls are usually compromised before the actual lock itself. While "lock bumping" has been sensationalized in the media, the process has been around as long as we've had locks, but I have not heard of one confirmed case of that being the cause of a break-in (it does leave evidence to someone who knows what to look for). It's actually not as easy as it sounds, and you still need equipment. In the case of the Medeco M3, even though there's video proof of it being bumped, not many people have access to the equipment needed to make the bump keys, and of those probably only a handful that could do it consistently. I wouldn't worry too much about theoretical weaknesses, but focus on real life security flaws.

Usually a thief will kick in the door, or come in through a window, but rarely will they have the skill, time, or desire to try a covert entry. I'm not implying that a cheap lock is as good as a high security one, just that you might be paying a lot more for very little added security, and in some cases, less security. For example, there are a lot of new anti-bump/pick proof locks on the market rated Class 1, that are physically weaker than the older, cheaper versions they replaced. Again, in a theoretical sense they are more secure, but in the real world they can be opened even faster and easier than some of the Class 2.

Using 2 deadbolts is a good start, but if you're worried about forceful entry while you're at home, a better idea is to use a single sided deadbolt in addition to a normal deadbolt. There is no keyhole on the outside, so what isn't there can't be compromised. Another thing you can do if it's feasible is have your door swing outward, instead of inward. This is how my rear entrance is set-up. It's much more difficult to kick in an outward swinging door, plus the actual strength of the lock doesn't come into play as much, because all the force is spread on the jamb, not concentrated on the deadbolt.