I am getting an Maxpedition E.D.C. Pocket Organizer for my glove box. Which Victorinox knife is most useful to survive in the woods? One with just the right tools.

Thanks for the help.

That's a pretty open ended question! I don't consider a SAK to be ultimate survival knife but any decent knife would be of use in a pinch. The Farmer is pretty sweet and under $30.

The essential answer, IMO, is: any one with a saw. The very excellent Vic saws amplify the power of these tools a hundredfold.

The oversize Soldier/Trekker series can do a great deal of practical work. Great saw, decent locking blade with thumbhole (one-handed open, or open with heavy mitts), and an oversize screwdriver that takes a lot of the prybar abuse away from the blade. Plus the usual suspects, all of which work quite well. My only bug is that I don't find the shape comfortable for pocket carry; a sheath is best.

I would also seriously consider the Farmer (or its cousin with the extra pruning blade [Pioneer Harvester]). These are much stronger than the standard-size, nylon-handled SAK. The blades don't lock, but the springs are quite strong (locks are useful, but absolute trust in them is naive). They have the oversize screwdriver/prybar and a highly functional awl. And of course, both have that wonderful saw.

The one hand Trekker or the New Soldier.

the end opening awl that can actually be used on the Farmer is a good option...if money and weight is not a prime consideration, I'd suggest an upgrade to a Swiss Tool...I tend to use the scissors and pliers more than the saw

It all depends upon your situation and your circumstances. For instance, a saw, while very useful when in forests, is not nearly so worthwhile above timberline. I carried a Tinker for many years, and found it quite adequate, although now I usually tote a much heavier Leatherman Wave-I really like having needlenose pliers handy (mostly because they are useful for opening jammed locking carabiners).

Any sharp knife is better than a dull blade - maintain whatever you carry.

The Farmer is a good knife in that size, but the SAK saw really gets useful when you go to the larger lockblade SAK knives such as the Trekker, Rucksack, and my fav the Outrider et al.

$.02 There is no right answer...

I always take a multitool on the road, in the car. I carry a SAK Farmer because it is stronger than most of the standard Swiss Army Knives and it is lighter by quite a bit than the locking blade, larger models. I own a few of the lockers but very seldom carry any of them. I prefer the bombproof Farmer.

I don't EDC any knife but keep the Countycomm Victorinox SAK in my glove box, http://countycomm.com/germanissueknife.html. I would look first to a locking blade and maybe a saw blade, but imho any SAK without a cork screw is missing its best and primary purpose in life.

For my money, a tool like the Wenger Ranger 78 is the best Swiss Army knife for the woods - the one-hand-opening, locking, plain edge blade & saw being the most important features in my mind (I like a model with the least amount of tools, but including these).



If you were looking for the standard-size models I'd go for the Wenger Evolution S13 (but the model with the Phillips instead of the corkscrew). This is the standard size SAK, with pretty much the same tool-set as the Ranger 78 including a locking main blade.



I have both of these knives (my Ranger is an older model, but same tool-set) and I think they have the best selection of tools for the woods; everything I'd need and little I don't. The Ranger is more of a belt carry sized tool, so I got the smaller SAK to pocket carry along side my fixed blade (my son is now using the Ranger).

Looking at the Victorinox line-up, it seems that the One-Hand Trekker NS and the Hiker are pretty much the equivalent to the above Wenger knives (except the Hiker doesn't have a locking blade and it has a small blade in the place of the Wenger's nail file).

I get more use out of the needle nose pliers on MTs than anything else so any MT without a needlenose pliers is a no go for me.

I never understood the love for sawblades on MTs. I don't own any MTs with saw blades and can honestly say I never wished for one.

While I like my Leatherman, I consider it to be primarily an urban tool. I simply don't find much use for its pliers in the woods.

A saw on the other hand can be useful for things like cutting walking staffs, processing fire wood and shelter building. According to some with experience in the area, SAK saws are helpful when making various traps too.

I use my MT pliers constantly in urban/suburban environments and pretty regularly while hiking and camping. Sometimes the best way to fix a piece of gear is with pliers.

With regard to the saw, it's been handy lots of times for solving branch and stick issues. I wouldn't want to be without it in the woods.

Asking this question is akin to asking, "what's the best pie to eat on Thanksgiving." You're going to get a bunch of different answers based on what other people's wants and needs are. Especially since Victorinox has such a wide selection of very similar tools.


Here's what I would suggest:

1. Stick with the models that have locking blades.
-They're simply safer to use when your motor skills might be compromised from being cold, wet, and/or hungry.

2. Look for a model that has a saw.
-Victorinox saws cut well, despite their diminutive size. They sometimes come in handy for shelter building and other bushcraft.

3. Look at your other gear.
-Find a model that has a tool selection that will work with your other gear. Do you need a long Phillips screwdriver for anything you carry? If so, consider getting a tool with that on there.

4. If the bag is staying in your vehicle most of the time, I would look heavily into their multi-tool models.
-I find their pliers, wire cutters, and slightly longer screwdrivers to be helpful with vehicle repairs.

5. Really take the time to go over the tool selections and pick a model that works for you.
-For example, years ago the consensus was that the Farmer model was "THE" survival Swiss Army knife. So I had to own one. But, then I realized the Camper model was a much better fit for me. It can do the same stuff as the Farmer, but it also has a spare blade, tweezers, and a place for a small glasses screwdriver....all things I use relatively often.

I've since replaced that model with a One-Handed Fireman. Again, similar tool selection to the Camper, just larger with a locking main blade.

I think that others have given you good advice, what you think you need in the woods. For me, a knife blade is only a backup (a fixed blade and a Spyderco). The saw, scissors, tweezers, toothpick and can opener are the important ones for woods loafing. Something like the Wengers or the Farmer with saw are great. Sometimes I do without the saw (although I often miss it) and carry an executive (my EDC SAK).

When I am working it depends on the equipment I am using. Sometimes a multi tool and sometimes an instrument specific tool kit.

Respectfully,

Jerry

That's a good point. Now that I think about it, when I was looking at my tool selection for backpacking and decided to leave the Leatherman at home this was my only real concern.

Ultimately I decided to put a tiny plier-based multi-tool in my small repair kit. It's not much but hopefully it would help in that area.



In a similar vein, since I don't carry a tool with scissors I make sure each of my FAKs have a small pair of scissors in them.

My favorite small pliers are on the Leatherman Squirt series. I have a PS4 (includes scissors!) and for their size they're strong, easy to use and versatile.

A Swiss Tool is very good to have. It's too large for me to EDC but I have one along when camping or in a vehicle. For urban carry EDC my SAK has been retired in favor of a Spyderco Ladybug in ZDP-189.

A Vic Farmer is what I carry.I just wish it had scissors on it.That being said a Huntsman has what a Farmer carries plus scissors,corkscrew,small blade,toothpick,tweezers and hook.The hook I find useless but still a handy package of tools....

BOATMAN
John

I'd have to say the One Handed Trekker (non serrated version) since it has a locking blade and a saw; the Huntsman has a good assortment of tools but the blade doesn't lock.

I'm with CM on this. The saw and pliers are very handy. Especially in cactus country, pliers or something similar (heavy duty tweezers) are just the thing.

You can always open a bottle of wine with just a shoe in a pinch (even if you are already drunk).

Here a Frenchman shows how: Open wine with shoe

I'd recommend the Explorer except it doesn't have a saw blade.

So select the Safari Hunter. It has a reputation for having one of the best wood saws in the SAK business and the main blade's spring is heavy duty (double the usual tension). But its the serrated gutter blade with a rounded unsharpened safety tip that makes this SAK exceptionally well suited as a rescue belt cutter for the glove box.

However, be advised that the Safari Hunter has by design an unusual operational characteristic in that all the tools open in the same direction.

I've edc'd the SAK Farmer (or whatever they called it waaaaaay back then) my Dad gave me since high school. Use it almost every day. I'm a big fan of my Leatherman Wave too but I imagine a LM might take up more space in that pouch than you want to devote?

I am going to start out with the farmer. What sharpener do I need? One that is very small and will fit in my Maxpedition E.D.C. Pocket Organizer? Small.

DMT Mini-Sharp or the larger Diafold is my favorite for field sharpening.

If you can only carry one in the woods which one? Offered in extra-coarse, coarse, fine and extra-fine diamond grits?

ty

Either Coarse or Fine.

Coarse will sharpen a blade to a nice working edge relatively fast, but it's difficult to get a nice shaving sharp edge. Fine is slower, but allows for a razor blade like edge.

I like Coarse for modern hard blades steels (like S30V or D2) that are notoriously difficult to sharpen. If you're only using it to sharpen your Farmer, the Fine version would likely be better. As Victorinox steel is pretty easy to sharpen and does well with a nice fine edge.

I almost never carry sharpening gear with me into the wild. For the most part all of my knives are sharp and will retain their edges plenty long. And I generally have more than one knife. For me sharpening is a job best done in my shop at home. While you can spin a scenario where having the ability to sharpen might help you in the field I don't think it's mission-critical for most of us.

Really? I touch up edges all the time in the field. Knives, axes, hatchets, ect. Even if they don't get completely dull, I find it's best to maintain the edge as best as I can while in use. A sharp knife cuts with less effort (and less energy expenditure) and is safer than one that isn't as sharp.

Even in daily use I find myself touching up blades often. Cut up some cardboard boxes and an edge can go from hair splitting sharp to butter knife dull real fast. Even a quick stropping can restore a lot of that lost edge.

If I am backpacking or climbing, I never carry sharpening gear - simply can't afford the extra weight. Sharpen it well beforehand and rely on expedient means if it gets really dull. If a vehicle is involved, a stone or two is good.

I need the razor edge at work (pro chef) so I keep touch-up stuff there. But no full-blown sharpening there, either. To me that's a shop issue.

I am partial to either the Fallkniven DC3 or DC4 diamond/ceramic sharpener. It is fairly small, not too expensive ($18-24) and has the advantage of both diamond and ceramic surfaces.

Pete

Fallkniven DC3 and DC4 Sharpener

One obvious scenario is when one is hunting. Especially when skinning out a large animal, being able to touch up a blade in the field is very useful.
This is sometimes true. When weight becomes a big issue (as in backpacking) then the sharpening gear might stay at home. Unless, of course, as noted above when hunting. On the other hand, when paddling my sea kayak, I keep a small stone with my gear.

As always, the universal answer applies: "It depends!"

+1 on what Pete said.Also consider a Lansky ceramic dogbone sharpener.They cost between five and seven dollars.Either the Fallkniven or Lansky are compact bomb proof sharpeners for the field......

BOATMAN
John

I've found only one use for it. Its good for carrying wire bail buckets like paint cans

I am one of the "no sharpener carried" camp. I have a variety of pocket type sharpeners but I find that on most all the trips I do or have done, I never need a sharpener. When I was in the military I carried a red (fine) DMT pocket sharpener in my kit. I carried it because if I was ever deployed, I could be in the field for an extended period of time.

In civilian use, I never carry one in the field. I have been on a lot of trips and never needed a sharpener and prefer to save the weight. I went on a 7 day Bushcraft course a few years ago and used my knives all day long and part way into the night. I took a Mora and a SAK Farmer. Both were razor sharp to start and not very much duller after 7 days making things and making fuzz sticks, batoning firewood, making spoons, bowls and traps. Good steel and good knife technique should be able to hold up for quite awhile without sharpening.

I'm a steel- and blade-junkie, so most of my knives are made of steels that have pretty good edge retention. My EDC pocket knife is ZDP-189. For most purposes I can't imagine two or three knives getting too dull to use. You could skin and process several large beasties without dulling a really good knife.

I'm also a semi-professional sharpener. My preferred methods of sharpening, namely a belt sander and Japanese natural & synthetic water stones, aren't terribly portable. I think it's difficult to do a good sharpening job in the field, and I set the bar very, very high for what I consider an acceptable sharpening job.

That said, I do sometimes have a hone or a strop. I completely agree that they're handy in the field, but I don't consider stropping/honing/steeling to be sharpening, just truing. At work I keep a borosilicate glass honing rod made by Hand American as well as a fine Idahone ceramic. The glass one is used on very hard Japanese knives, like Super Aogami or powders at 62-64 Rc. When one of my gyutos won't shave I give it two licks per side on the boro hone. When that won't bring it back to shaving sharp I use the ceramic. When that won't make it shave I resharpen the knife on water stones.

I plan on having John K (can't spell or pronounce!) of JK Handmade do a rehandling job on one of my SAKs. He does very nice work! My dad had 50 or 60 of his knives, and most of them have been passed along to me.

Yeah, his work is great and he's a very good guy. He and my dad were good friends. He also makes scales for the 1911 pistol, been meaning to have him make a pair for my Kimber.

Victorinox Farmer is what I have carried for over 30 years. Bombproof knife.

I want to be able to cut wire. Wire and aluminum or steel cans seem to be some of the most useful trash that I often come across.
That's why I carry a multi-tool instead of a SAK.

David Enoch

This is the knife I want to carry in the woods.....a Victorinox Huntsman. I have a red one, but I really like this hunter green model. In reality, I always carry either a Leatherman Wave or a Leatherman Super Tool 200 because the tools are much more robust than most folding knives. I like the pliers on the LM, and I like the tweezers and toothpick on the Vics.

A former Ranger I know says expensive knives are hugely over rated and he cringes at what folks spend on em.His take is to assess quality as ample and goes from there.Says he wants several knives,not one for same budget.

Just a thought to throw out into the inter space....FWIW. Im not knocking anyones choices.

In my case I have a few simple folders in SS that are tight and have held up well for years.Once I got a decent diamond sharpener these are really good utility knives.

Ford vrs Rolls Royce tho....not Ford vrs Yugo.

PS,I wouldnt mind a really nice knife,but I have a budget,Im not getting younger and survival has different meanings in where we are in life.

In knives, just like backpacks, stoves, and all kinds of consumer commodities, you will have at least three major classes of items 1) cheap, worthless junk 2) moderately priced, workable items representing good value 3) highly priced, exotic, high performance goods with prices to match. Yugos, VW beetles, and Lamborghini's.

I don't know how many times I have read Consumer's Reports articles in which the high priced item was indeed the bet performing, but rated only slightly below was another brand costing a fraction of the higher price and thereby earning their Best Buys rating.


Sometimes the higher priced items are worth their cost for specialized applications, but it all depends. I have always been willing to spend top dollar for climbing rope and I am glad I did. For knives, I have been happy with Moras and Buck for nearly all of my applications

Hard to beat the Farmer for just general use! It has most of the blades/functions you need with very few that you don't. I'll probably always have a few Alox Farmers in my collection.