Hi yall
You ever want a surton blade on a surton sak this is how
anyway the only SAC knives I have experience with as far as taking them apart and so forth are the Rucksack and similar models. The smaller knives may be assembled in an entirely different way.

When you pry off the slabs with a sharp edged tool you will find that they are only held in place with three plastic pockets formed inside the slabs these pockets slip over three corresponding brass pins and collars located at each end and slightly off midpoint in the center. While I have had no trouble getting a good press fit when reassembling the knives, it would be possible to glue them at these points and replace the slabs if the pockets were damaged to the point that they were no longer tight.

Each of the collars is flared at the top to form a lip to grab the slab material. They are also press fit onto the pins that go through handle and as a unit they also form the pivot points for the blades and friction bars. The corkscrew and awl use another brass pin that has been peened into place and is not used to hold the slabs.

When you want to remove a blade or blades you will need to have a slab of wood with a shallow hole drilled into the face that is the same size as the pins and collars. You will also need a punch that is the same size or smaller than the pivot pin. Place the slabless knife onto the wood with the pin you want to remove over the hole. Using the punch and a small hammer tap out the pin and drive it into the hole you placed in the wood. The collar on the bottom side will go with the pin and the one on the topside will come off of the pin. When you have removed the entire pin the blades on that end will fall out.

At this point you can swap or change any of the main body blades or tools. You only need to pay attention to the possibility that the replaced tool might interfere with a closed blade on the other side or that it might be a different thickness. If the thickness is the problem then you can place shims or file down the thickness to make it work. If it interferes with the opposing blade or tool then you can try moving it to the inside or outside slot or placing a different tool on the opposing end.

If you are replacing the awl or corkscrew then you need to file off the flared end of the fourth pin and push it out. You will not be able to use this pin again but a trip to the hobby or welding store and a length of brass rod of the right diameter will replace it without a problem. You will need to repeen the replacement rod.

All this would allow you to swap and change your SAC to fit your personnel desires like I did. You could also copy the blade in a better steel and have a custom blade installed. It would be possible to redesign the blade to a shape you desired like a one handed blade or a different tip. You would also be able to replace the slabs with whatever material you wanted like exotic wood or bone, antler, horn, or micarta. You might even have a piece of G10, aluminum, titanium, or carbon fiber laying around to make it really unique.

When you reassemble the main pins you will need to slip the collars over the pins and then slightly peen the inner rod so that it forms a good friction fit to the collar. Then press the collar tight to the sides of the frame and punch the rod inside fairly well so that it flares out inside the collar and sets tight.
http://pub1.ezboard.com/fhoodlumsbladeware.showMessage?topicID=2243.topic&index=4 and <a href="alsohttp://outdoors-magazine.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=89" target="_blank">alsohttp://outdoors-magazine.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=89</a> or if you like http://pub1.ezboard.com/fhoodlumsbladeware.showMessage?topicID=2081.topic&index=2

Teen suriver <img src="images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Nathan,

Sounds like you've taken apart the layers on an SAK and re-assembled it. I've taken the scales off a couple and replaced them, and MAX has custom-made a very useful replacement scale. What I've observed scale-off agrees with your description, but I haven't had the heart to disassemble an other-wise perfectly good Victorinox yet.

It just so happens that I'm holding one with a damaged blade tip - and the shape of the main blade is one of my few dislikes of Victorinox SAKs. I re-shaped the blade back to a functional blade, but after reading your post... <shrug> off with the blade! I'll make a better (to my desires) blade, install it, and see how the process goes. Don't have any suitable stainless steel stock on hand, so this attempt will be hardenable carbon steel and I'll hand shape the critical areas as I've disassembled my mill to upgrade its capabilities.

Thanks for the report - if you would post some assembly/dis-assembly pictures as a follow-up, I'm confident that we would all be interested.

Regards,

Tom

an idea i had:
has anyone tried shaping the back end of a house key to fit the pin in the knife to replace a tool with a fold-out key?
i've always wondered if that would work.

If you plan carefully it may work. There are keys made this way. It depends on the thickness of your key (for mine the thickness is the same as that of the main blade). Just keep your locks lubricated well (use graphite for that) as that assembly doesn´t allow for too much torque. I wouldn´t like the idea of having to carry that particular knife only because I need to have my key.

If you're going to cut and paste someone else's work, please don't try to pass it off as your own work and experience. It's called "plagiarism" and most people don't appreciate it. I hope that this was just an oversight on your part, and not intentional.

This post originated at another forum through the generosity of one Louis Magnabosco who took the time and effort to share with others this very helpful information.

http://pub1.ezboard.com/fhoodlumsbladeware.showMessage?topicID=2243.topic&index=4

M A X, I could see carrying a spare key on the knife, not the primary key. I carry my pocket knife far more often than my keychain.

I was willing to give a genuine forum member a pass on exceptionally bad spelling, but not plagurism.

Thanks for the heads up Chase.

Teen Surviver:

You may see or sense a lot of older individuals on this forum you consider old foogies, but we have primarily honest, interested, and INTELLIGENT participants who are not dumb because they are older.

Bountyhunter

Hi Yall
chase I am sorry I should <img src="images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> have give in credit where credit is due. I didn't think that it mattered but I was wrong. when I fond this information I got exited and I just had to share it but you are right I should give in credit where credit is DUE. I am so so sorry it will never happen again.
Teen suriver <img src="images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

It doesn't take long before you recognise familiar names popping up in the various survival related forums. It takes even less to see people discover links, ideas and subjects and race to the other sites like a Magpie with an earring. I think concerns of plagiarism can be handled more civily with private messages to the transgressor or administrator. I am still waiting for a retraction from one of the Hood crowd. I took a poster to task for grossly exaggerating and distorting a certain minor island adventure: said adventure I had rather intimate knowledge of from a very close source. After my grammar and spelling were attacked,along with my character and intent: said thread abruptly dissappeared- as will anyone here who can't follow our simple rules.