standard diving knives - like the one you showed - are usually made out of fairly (cra**y) common stainless steel. they are used for bending, prying, and opening abalone shells. edge sharpness and retention are poor. But they are fine if all you need is a pry bar. otherwise the razel looks interesting ... but I've never owned one.

cheers,Pete2

Thanks again Denis

The Wenger SAK is great in its versatility , but won't be sturdy enough for prying and "dirty work" when you are in a desparate mode.

The SOG Revolver is also neat as a knife-saw combo , but again, won't help in prying/chiseling.

The SOG survivor , on the other hand, has potential. It looks like full tang with soem metal butt. If I can cut a bit of the tip to make it 1/4inch wide ( something between a pointed knife tip and 1-inch chisel tip ). This will offer the best of all worlds (for me at least).

Well, I know pete. But this is not a perfect world
Sometimes we have to compromise, or ask someone to make a custom knife. Custom knives are too expensive for me.

Why not just EDC a pry bar? They come in all sizes - I have a tiny one on my keychain, one about 2 feet long under the bed (I consider that a reasonable precaution, living in earthquake country) and a couple of six footers in the garage. The knife is for cuttin' and the pry bar is for shovin'.

I hate to sound so negative with all these suggestions. But I have already EDC'ed a 6-inch prybar and didn't use it for 2 years. The one time I had to use it, I had to cut something quickly and used the prybar's sharp tip. This is why I love multiple-use tools.

Anyway, seems the best thing is to buy something very close and modify it. I have now two knives in mind that have serrated backs. One suggested up there by Denis, the other is backpacjac's knife she mentioned in the other thread about serrated parts.







Cutting off the pointed tip is relatively easy and that should give me a narrow chisel tip.

Thanks everyone

No line cutter on this.

http://www.crkt.com/Renner-Neckolas-Neck-Knife-Blunt-Tip-Blade-Orange-Handle-and-Sheath

Another option is this, then have someone carbidize the edge so it'll stay sharp longer.

http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Paddling/KnivesSnorkelGear/PRD~5004-128/wenoka-squeeze-titanium-knife.jsp

thanks jzmtl

what I need is a knife that is both straight edge and serrated edge ( NOT partially serrated/plain edge) , plus the capability of chiseling/prying.

Dive knives are great example, except for hooks which not important for me ( and it weakens the blade/prying capability.

Yeah, the problem is what you want is basically a dive knife, and I've never seen one without line cutter.

If you really want one exactly like that it's probably easiest to ask someone to make you one, or do it yourself and have someone heat treat it for you.


Or if you are willing, buy a SOG DE dagger and grind the tip to flat, there are a few models.

Try the Gerber River shorty, which I own and like.

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-05640-River...5692&sr=8-2

Or the Mcnett saturna dive knife, which i also own & like. I've never used the line cutter, but I don't think it weakens the blade.

http://www.amazon.com/McNett-Saturna-Blu...mp;sr=1-2-spell

They are both blunt tipped, and the saturna is plain on one side and serrated on the other. Blades are 3 inches long.

Both are low cost.

I kind of think that what you are after is going to involve a lot of compromises - Prybars need to be blunt, thick, robust and a little softer than knives where they are usually thinner need better steel and saws (if they are really to saw not just notch wood) need a different profile altogether.

I might be tempted to prioritise the tasks and think around the top 2.

Or I might be over thinking this....