While not as experienced as some here, I thought I'd share some recent experience with saws. <br><br>Gathering wood around the place for future fires seemed a percect opportunity to do practical evals on some of my toys. The timber was about 3" diameter and both hard and soft. <br> <br>BCB Commando saw - It will cut but slow. It has a tendency to bind when used with the finger rings. A green branch was pushed between the rings to fake a bow saw. In this mode, it was slower but easier, with less binding. It tended to bounce a bit though.<br><br>Glock Folding Shovel w/ saw - Attached to the handle, it's very uncomfortable, and the telescoping handle does just that - it telescopes in and out with annoying regularity. I tried just holding the saw itself with acceptable results, but it's a bit dangerous. I wouldn't want to try it in less than optimun conditions.<br><br>Gerber Legend - Yes, I too occasionally suffer from Newer, Better, Shinier Disease. This is a classic case. The Rem-Grit saw quickly clogged and was about useless. It's not really easy to unclog, so I thought "What the hell" and dug out my 14 year old<br><br>Victorinox Swiss Army Camper - no longer made, but the SAK Fieldmaster is close. No, the blade doesn't lock, but otherwise a joy. It cuts well, although it seems slower in softer woods. The blade would start to clog, but just wiping it on the bark or your jeans cleaned the shavings out. My pick of the litter. <br><br>Result - The Legend is out and my old SAK is in my pocket. It is half the weight at 4 1/4 oz. (weight watchers scale), and I am finding it much more useful. The saw is better, and for everyday tasks so are the scissors (IMHO). It has an acceptable file, stitching awl, tweezers and my toothpick. I wish it would lock, and had a better main blade. That's why it's partnered with an A G Russel Featherlite. <br><br>Let me know what y'all think. You may fire when ready, Gridleys...

>>>The Rem-Grit saw quickly clogged and was about useless<<<<br><br>I just love it when others' experience validates my own write-ups. <br><br>>>>I wish it would lock, <<<<br><br>For those who prefer a locking blade on their SAK, remember that Wenger does make a number of classic size SAKs with a locking main blade. It's not the most elegant lock, but it does work.

I have used a one foot long folding saw, much like a gigantic folding knife. I dont know if its sold under a different brand in the US, but here in Sweden its known as the Sandvik (manufacturer) Laplander (toolname). I used it with good results in the north of Sweden where the birches are so hard grow (and frozen) that any ax will bounce! Its not the smalest saw avaliable, but it does work pretty good!<br><br>-Has anyone tried ordinary carpenters saws in arctic conditions to both cut firewood and hard-packed snow to be used in snow-shelters?<br><br>Stefan, Sweden

>>remember that Wenger does make a number of classic size SAKs with a locking main blade<<<br><br>Victorinox has some SAKs with locks, too. Although these aren't the ones commonly seen in store displays, they can be viewed at www.victorinox.com.

I double checked and unless I'm missing something, always possible, Victorinox doesn't make a locking blade in the classic size SAK, only the larger "modern" ones with their slide-lock, which they refer to as "pocket tools."

That's right. The "pocket tools" were what I was referring to. I didn't realize they were larger than the traditional SAKs. I've just seen the pictures on the website. Thanks for clarifying.

The fact that any of these expedient saws work at all is a small miracle. Traditional crosscut saws came in several tooth variations for both hard and soft woods, with rakers to remove chips and arched bodies for stroking smoothness. Then they had to be periodically sharpened and the teeth "set" with the radius maintained. A saw out of tune wasn't called a "misery whip" for nothing! If a larger wood saw is required ; Stefan's Sandvic is excellent, as is a simple bow saw. A one man crosscut ( assymetric blade, accessory handle for two man ops) is very stowable, but the maintenance is again problematical. I just carry spare bowsaw blades and fashion a wood handle out of a green sapling.

Thanks, all. I found the Victorinox WorkChamp, which is a bit like my old Camper with a small pair of pliers with wire cutters and small phillips so I can change the batteries in my Photon II. The main blade locks. It doesn't seem to be available domestically, but can be ordered for about $60 including shipping. (Return subtle hint, Cliff)<br><br>No, it isn't ideal, but it has most of the commonly used tools at the ready in your pocket without unsealing a tin, and appears to fit about as well as my old SAK in the pocket. Therefore it will be available when needed. No matter how good a tool is, if it ain't on you, it ain't too useful. So far, Victorinox has a good reputation for quality and durability, so it will work acceptably when needed. And a SAK is non-threatening, especially compared to fixed blades for everyday use. Important after 9/11.<br><br>Thanks for the assisstance <br><br><br><br> <br><br>What I like about

Yes,any good pruning saw taken out of the handle is a good addition to a kit. They are extremely flat and take little space. Mine is an ARS, but I'm not sure where the steel is made. They are agressive cutters and require little effort to cut a two or three inch limb. May I suggest a high quality hack saw blade with 16 to 18 teeth per inch. They cut dry wood surprisingly well and are excellent for cutting triggers for snare trips and self snagging fishing lines. Would appreciate location information on Sandvik pruning saw blades.

There has been a lot said about the non-threatening look. IMHO I feel criminals are less likely to attack if they are standing next to a man that looks threatening. TO( censored) with looking submissive and defenseless. As long as you are legal why worry. Of course you don't want to go looking like Crocodile Dundee to a Board meeting.