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#237588 - 12/19/11 04:22 PM Re: DIY Alcohol Stoves -- Basic Design Considerations [Re: jzmtl]
Hikin_Jim Offline
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Registered: 10/12/07
Posts: 1804
Loc: Southern California
Originally Posted By: jzmtl
I know, I just like to mess around with it. Last winter I tried to light a fire with firesteel and wood shavings made on the spot in -20. :p

I did discover something useful though, at this temperature lighting alcohol with firesteel requires a whole different technique than warm weather. One need to drop a burning glob of metal directly into alcohol to ignite it, spark shower won't do. This means if alcohol is used for preheat for liquid stove, a light/match is absolutely necessary since due to location of the preheating pads dropping a glob onto it is next to impossible. Haven't tried coleman fuel yet so don't know if firesteel is going to work with that.
Ah, I see where you're coming from. I just didn't want you to be disappointed if you didn't get to the "magic number" of 15ml of fuel for 500ml boiled. In colder weather, your pot, burner, windscreen, fuel, the water, etc. are all going to be colder and will absorb heat. Getting 500ml of cold, cold water to boil on only 15ml of fuel is a pretty good trick. None of my stoves can do it.

HJ
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#237589 - 12/19/11 04:23 PM Re: DIY Alcohol Stoves -- Basic Design Considerations [Re: hikermor]
Hikin_Jim Offline
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Registered: 10/12/07
Posts: 1804
Loc: Southern California
Originally Posted By: hikermor
Don't worry about igniting Coleman fuel (AKA white gas). It is the most volatile fuel out there....
Three cheers for "Boy Scout juice," the best darned fire starter anywhere. wink

HJ
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#237590 - 12/19/11 04:34 PM Re: DIY Alcohol Stoves -- Basic Design Considerations [Re: Roarmeister]
Hikin_Jim Offline
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Registered: 10/12/07
Posts: 1804
Loc: Southern California
Originally Posted By: Roarmeister

Measured time to when fine bubbles begin to form on the clear lid.
Measured time to when steam appears to get past the lid.
Measured time to rolling boil.
Measured time to burn fuel.
Excellent, thorough data gathering!

Originally Posted By: Roarmeister

Methanol 99.9% (meythl hydrate) Energy density by wt = 20.16 MJ/kg
Bubbles: 4.92 minutes
Steam: n/a
Boil: n/a
Burn: 8.61 minutes

Denatured ethanol 95%/5% Energy density by wt = 26.8 MJ/kg
Bubbles: 6.38 minutes
Steam: 11.00 minutes
Boil: 11.94 minutes
Burn: 13.19 minutes

VERY interesting results.

Originally Posted By: Roarmeister
Observations:
Ethanol took longer for the preheat cup to vapourize the fuel to enable the jets of the stove to work.
The fuel also did not burn as quickly/energetically from the jets hence the burn time was longer and actually brought the water to boil unlike the methanol.
Ethanol burned with a bluer and less visible flame; the methanol had some yellow tones.
Note: after checking it appears ethanol has a lower vapour pressure than methanol which MAY explain why it doesn't make use of the pressurized jets as well.

Methanol does indeed have a higher vapor pressure. Methanol is usually the more practical fuel in cold weather for that very reason. Also, jetted stoves tend to burn a little stronger with methanol.

Originally Posted By: Roarmeister
Just for comparison, I got out my Coleman Xtreme with Powermax fuel.
Bubbles: 2.50 minutes
Steam: 4.50 minutes
Boil: 4.75 minutes
Burn: n/a

Even though the Xtreme stove is fairly heavy, it is dependable and is unbeatable when it comes to boiling water, esp. in cold weather. It can also do a decent simmer.
Lol. An Xtreme vs. an alcohol stove. NO comparison. But when it's cold, the Xtreme becomes your new best friend.

Originally Posted By: Roarmeister
Too bad the fuel cannisters are no longer available. I have about 9-10 left and if I can find somebody with any stock, I'd buy them out.
I bought every canister I could find when the local stores stopped carrying them.

HJ
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#237593 - 12/19/11 05:31 PM Re: DIY Alcohol Stoves -- Basic Design Considerations [Re: Hikin_Jim]
Roarmeister Offline
Old Hand

Registered: 09/12/01
Posts: 960
Loc: Saskatchewan, Canada
Originally Posted By: Hikin_Jim
Originally Posted By: Roarmeister

Measured time to when fine bubbles begin to form on the clear lid.
Measured time to when steam appears to get past the lid.
Measured time to rolling boil.
Measured time to burn fuel.
Excellent, thorough data gathering!
HJ

I did one baseline test with less fuel as well, just to see what parameters made sense for additional testing. And for general practise and setup.
I used very cold water (just above freezing) to make it more of a challenge. Where I often camp (Canadian Rockies), the water temp is almost never above 10*C and often close freezing because of glacial melt.

I'm going to have to look at other types of stoves -- your article on efficient alcohol stoves has my interest peaked. I think I will build a couple more base on a smaller 8oz coke can. I don't like the idea of requiring a preheat pan, its just a bit clumsy. My stoves don't appear to be as efficient as I would like either.

Yeah the Xtreme with PowerMax fuel isn't playing fair but then again I still use this stove! I thought it would make a wide eyed comparison. I didn't think to weigh the cannister before and after to get the amount used. The Xtreme is also a lot noisier.

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#237595 - 12/19/11 06:26 PM Re: DIY Alcohol Stoves -- Basic Design Considerations [Re: Hikin_Jim]
jzmtl Offline
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Registered: 03/18/10
Posts: 530
Loc: Montreal Canada
With cold weather and alcohol you may have to use a preheating pan. When I tried my penny stove the fuel on top would burn out before alcohol boils, but a very small amount of fuel in preheat pan made a big difference.

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#237596 - 12/19/11 06:26 PM Re: DIY Alcohol Stoves -- Basic Design Considerations [Re: Roarmeister]
Hikin_Jim Offline
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Registered: 10/12/07
Posts: 1804
Loc: Southern California
The Xtreme is a great stove, period. It has a lot of output, but you can burn through the fuel if you don't keep the flame down a bit.

For me, when I'm thinking cold temperatures, melting snow, etc, I much prefer the Xtreme over an alcohol stove, but I do know people that are alcohol "die hards" and use alcohol in all four seasons. To me, alcohol is a great choice above 10C/50F. Below that, I'm a gas or liquid fuel (petroleum based) kind of guy.

With regard to alcohol, if a stove needs priming in weather above 10C/50F, it's not the stove for me. Priming is by it's very nature inefficient. That fuel you're using for priming counts against your efficiency numbers. In colder temperatures, priming is a necessary evil.

This past weekend, I went out with (among other things) an alcohol stove made from 222ml mini Coke cans. The top opening was smaller than the inner wall of the stove and had a 1:1 ratio to the height of the burner. I was able to get efficiency numbers very close to the efficiency numbers of the commercially produced 12-10 alcohol burner. I ran my tests in a Clikstand set up. The windscreen/pot stand set up that you use makes a great deal of difference as does ground temperature.

My testing set up:


HJ
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#237597 - 12/19/11 06:30 PM Re: DIY Alcohol Stoves -- Basic Design Considerations [Re: jzmtl]
Hikin_Jim Offline
Sheriff
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/12/07
Posts: 1804
Loc: Southern California
Originally Posted By: jzmtl
With cold weather and alcohol you may have to use a preheating pan. When I tried my penny stove the fuel on top would burn out before alcohol boils, but a very small amount of fuel in preheat pan made a big difference.
That's my experience as well. To really pre-heat, you've got to have a pan under the stove.

HJ
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#237858 - 12/23/11 07:41 AM Re: DIY Alcohol Stoves -- Basic Design Considerations [Re: Hikin_Jim]
Hikin_Jim Offline
Sheriff
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Registered: 10/12/07
Posts: 1804
Loc: Southern California
Speaking of priming, I just did a quick blog post on priming an alcohol stove.

Even if you don't normally have to prime your stove, in cold weather, you may. It's something that is generally a good idea for alcohol stove users to know how to and be prepared to do.

The post: Priming Alcohol Stoves

HJ
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