bacpacjac

the so-called "alpine style" system of climbing is based on the idea that climbers are in great shape, very skilled, and can keep moving up their chosen route on the mountain. In essence, the climbers are wagering that they have the "edge" on the mountain ... when it comes to strength, skill, and judgment. The system does indeed work very well IF the bet pays off. The climbers move quickly over the terrain, and therefore don't expend tons of extra energy carrying gear they don't really need. Body heat is largely generated by the fact that you are moving relatively continuously.

The whole thing can go horribly wrong if conditions change (a storm comes in fast), you misjudge your capabilities (e.g. have a bad reaction to high altitude sickness), or other factors undermine your physical performance (e.g. sickness or unexpected hypothermia). Once the team gets into a bind, everyone has got a serious problem - because no-one is equipped for the dangerous conditions of a bad storm, howling winds, and icy temperatures. No doubt the climbing companions on this trip reasoned that the best overall approach was to try to get off the mountain quickly and seek help for their friend. But it's a tough situation and the outcome can be tragic ... as it appears to be in this case.

During the days that I climbed I always tried to pick routes on mountains where i would have a good edge i.e. I was stronger than the obstacles in my path. When that judgment was good, I had great days. When that judgment was bad, I paid for it. Nobody gets it right all the time.

Just my $0.02

Pete #2