Jerry,

I have never experienced a level of hypothermia where I felt incapacitated. I also have never laid on a mountain and let myself get colder and colder. I can imagine circumstances where that can happen, I can't understand how that happened to one person and the other 2 were seemingly fully functional. They were exposed to the same conditions at the same time. So, that is hard to believe this climber would be that far gone without someone intervening. That is part of being a climbing team, look after each other. Was there a condition that was different for him compared to his friends, a contributing factor such as mountain sickness from altitiude, or...?

The other 2 climbers would have had to continue up to reach someone on the Emmons Glacier since it is a considerable distance from Liberty Ridge. That meant that it took them a long time to get to the top of the ridge, traverse to the Emmons and descend to where they notified park personnel. Afternoon was mentioned, so the injured climber was left for a considerable period of time before anyone was even starting to attempt to reach him.

All together a sad scenario. A typical climb of Liberty Ridge involves one night on the ridge but probably not as high as 13,000 ft. Was this perhaps an additional, totally unplanned night out? That could certainly be a contributing factor to this accident.

As for the term light and fast, it is not the same in mountaineering as it is in fast paced trail hiking. A good climber has to decide what gear is essential and what is unnecessary and pack accordingly. The obvious hazard on this climb is the steep terrain and potential of falling rock and ice. They surely had ropes and protective anchors and ice tools to accomplish the climb. There is also a risk of weather to include cold and there is always a compromise somewhere in how you pack for that unforseen weather. You plan on what you think you need but also can error by taking too much or too little. Add to this the effects of altitude and fatigue from strenuous activities. You cannot plan when you have a bad reaction to high altitude. I have been fine at 14,000 and a week later been sick at 11,000, it just hits and the effects can stop you in your tracks. That would be very harsh on a climb that is harder to climb down than up, meaning you can't retreat you can only suffer and perhaps die without intervention or rescue. A cell phone would have likely worked from the ridge, if one was carried.