Doug's description of the Doug Ritter RSK Mk2 Perseverance says:

"The 1095 steel is not rust resistant in the least, so you will need to take appropriate care of the blade to prevent rust, including the laser engraved portions and the threaded holes for the tapered plugs if the plugs are removed. I recommend a dry film rust inhibitor such as Sentry Solutions TUF-CLOTH or TUF-GLIDE, but you can use any rust preventative or treatment you prefer, or none at all. If you do not take precautions, it will rust. Rusting of the knife is NOT covered by the warranty."

Now that I have this fine knife, is it recommended that I disassemble the handle and apply the Sentry Solutions treatment to all surfaces ... including the ground blade edge?

I want this thing to last IN USE, which will mean some exposure to water when cleaning the blade after food-use, but not salt water and it will be stowed dry.

What's recommended?

With my uncoated carbon steel knives I take off the handle slabs and put a layer of grease underneath to help prevent rust. Then I put it back together and wipe down the rest of the blade with an oil-dampened cloth. For an uncoated blade, this needs to be done somewhat frequently, at least until the blade builds up a nice patina from use.

Now the RSK Mk2, on the other hand, is powdercoated; which should do a pretty good job of preventing rust everywhere that the powdercoating is covering the steel. For the most part, you'll only have to worry about the uncovered areas.

Therefore, you'll have to look the knife over, see which areas go down to bare metal (like blade edge, maybe lettering, maybe holes in the handle, ect), and make sure to pay special attention to those areas. How often this will need to be done depends on what the knife is doing and where it's doing it.

For use around salt water, you might need to wipe down those bare areas at the end of every day to prevent rust spotting. For a desert trip, you might only need to wipe it down when you get back home. The biggest issue is keeping it dry. A wet sheath, for example, is a great way the rust the heck out of a knife in just a few hours.

If you aren't removing the brass plugs, then you really don't have any reason to do anything under the handles with regards rust prevention, though a drop or two of TUF-GLIDE or something similar couldn't hurt every few years I suppose.

In regular use, the key is to make sure the blade is wiped dry after use and then protected when "put away." Carbon steel blades are used daily all over the world with no problems and little real attention paid to them other than to ensure they are wiped dry.

It also depends where you live. Out here in the desert, we don't worry about it at all.

I carry a carbon steel knife daily (Izula, which is 1095), and the only thing I ever have done is wipe it off on my pants if it gets wet before I put it in the sheath. Every once in awhile, it might get slightly discolored on the edge, but never enough to make a difference. And a single pass on a stone or strop cleans it up. The etchings on the blade have had a patina to them since I can remember, and have never shown any rust.

I think some people get a little paranoid about carbon steel and have it in mind that it is going to rust and pit instantly and ruin the knife if they get it wet. On a powder coated knife, even if you left it in salt water, the edge is the only thing that's going to get attacked. Spend some time with a sharpening stone, and you'll never notice there was a problem.

Thanks all! I ordered the Tuf-cloth and the small Tuf-Glide applicator - figure it would be good for the Mk1 hinges and other moving parts.

Do the laser etchings on the Mk2 - on the blade - go all the way through the coating to the bare steel?

It looks like they do.

If you carry any important survival tool or weapon, you need to maintain it. You should regularly inspect your knife, check the edge, and look for signs of wear or rust. I doubt that there is anything unusual about Doug's knife - 1095 is a good steel for knives. It takes a good edge, but will corrode if left in wet conditions.

You can protect your blade with an anti-rust coating, or paint it with some black-out paint. Dry it before putting it away. Also, de-burr the edges.

good luck,
Pete #2

Does anyone store their carbon knife edge in contact with a cheap magnesium block, which are avialable for a few $$. This will stop or reduce corrosion even in a salty environment through sacrificial cathodic protection.

Perhaps somewhat ironically, most of my kitchen knives are stainless or tool steel while most of my camping/survival/outdoor knives are carbon. I haven't had much problem with rust myself. A little patina forms on the edge but usually that's all. On occasion I'll get a little active (ie red) rust on the very edge but it sharpens right out. For the most part Spring is the only time it's wet here.

I use mink oil for *everything*, really. A good coat all over the handle and blade makes it slippery at first, but once cured the handle gets tacky and the blade is well-protected. The best advice has already been offered...just wipe everything down when you're finished, and you're all set.