Hey, Frisket, just relax and take it slow. One's first pop-gun is always a neat acquisition. But there's a substantial learning curve ahead, and most if it doesn't involve cleaning the firearm.

I sincerely suggest you spend some time with an experienced shooter -- if only to dispel any Hollywood notions, and get to know how to use your firearm safely, responsibly, and (finally) effectively.

I have two or three .22s in my house (I live in the country), and they're the only firearm I use on a regular basis -- mostly for control of invasive species.

You may be surprised to learn that the hottest .22LR round is basically useless for my situation -- and the lowest power round that will feed (CB22 long in 10/22) is the most effective. It won't even cycle the action; it's a fancy single shot. Treat your firearm as a tool for the task at hand (and allow no Hollywood BS).

The point being, a firearm is only as effective (or ineffective) and safe (or dangerous) as the brain of the person holding it. Train your brain. And develop safe habits that you always, always, always follow.

Firearms typically come with a little packing grease/oil on them, it's there to help keep the gun from rusting as it sits in the box (or on the dealer's shelf). In the case of Glock firearms, you're actually supposed to run a few rounds through the gun before you clean it; as the packing grease is designed to help the gun wear properly. With that said, it's not a big deal either way. Some people prefer to clean them first, others will shoot it right out of the box....for the most part, as long as the gun has some type of lubrication in there (and nothing is broken, obviously), it will run fine.

Personally, I just like to run a patch or boresnake down the barrel of a new firearm. It lets me know the barrel is clear of obstructions and not full of anything that shouldn't be there (like a ton of rust or spiderwebs). After that, I'll run some rounds through it, bring it home, then take it apart enough so that I can inspect the action under a good strong light (just to make sure there is nothing visibly wrong with the firearm and it's wearing the way it should). At that point, sometimes I clean it thoroughly; most of the time I just give it a drop of oil here and there on the action, run a quick boresnake or patch down the barrel (with a few drops of CLP on it), and then wipe it down with an oil-dampened cloth and put it back in the safe. It's essentially what my grand-father did and I've got firearms that belonged to him which are now 60+ years old and they still work just fine.

As far as cleaning/oiling solutions go, everyone has their own suggestions and recommendations. For general cleaning, I like Otis or Break-Free brand CLP. They clean out carbon, they lubricate the action, and they protect the firearm from rust...all in one simple and handy bottle (or spray can). For the most part, that will cover basic cleaning just fine.

Otherwise, I like Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner or MPro7 gun cleaner (same stuff); this is a gun cleaning solvent that is safe to use on a wide variety of firearms. Basically it will remove carbon and old oil/grease build-up, however after using it, you will need to re-lubricate the firearm. What do I use this for? If there is a lot of stubborn carbon build-up on a firearm, instead of scrubbing it off, you just spray this on and let it sit for a while (or stick small parts in a bath of it). The carbon should wipe away no problem.

I also keep a bottle of Break-Free Bore Cleaning Foam. This is a copper remover. Over time copper from copper jacketed bullets can start to build up a bit inside the barrel. You spray some of this in the barrel, let it sit, then run a clean patch through it. It does a pretty good job of getting rid of built-up copper (which you can see as a green color on the patch). There is no need to do this often (nor do you really want to, since it's a pretty strong solvent that you want to avoid getting on the firearm's plastic or wood components). Unless you're a competitive high-power shooter, a couple times a year is more than enough.

As far as cleaning tools go, there are a bunch of different options out there....and again, everyone has their own opinion. The ones with aluminum/brass rods, bronze bore brushes, the appropriate adapters, and some patches work just fine and sell for a reasonable price. Just make sure to get a kit that works with your caliber of rifle (.22).

In the past, it was commonly thought that, to keep a firearm functioning, you had to keep it as perfectly clean as possible all the time. Nowadays, we know that, for the most part, keeping a firearm white-glove clean at all times isn't really necessary. Keeping a firearm properly oiled is much more important, and it's actually possible to over-clean firearms (i.e. induce unnecessary wear to the action, bore, and finish). As I mentioned, after a range session, I'll just put a drop or two of oil on the wear points of the action, run a boresnake or quick patch down the barrel, and then wipe it all off with a little oil on a cotton cloth to get carbon off and to prevent rust. No need to get white-glove clean every time you shoot it.

On the rifle: Good choice! The Marlin 795 is the best bang for the buck out there with it's current $25 rebate. I like mine a lot, and I have many many .22's. Actually, I like them all (I research well before buying anything, so I don't end up with lemons!) For an inexpensive plinker - the 795's target market - the only real competition it has in that market is the Mossberg Plinkster 702. I have both and consider them equals - I would not recommend one over the other. Just buy whichever is cheaper at the moment (with the current rebate, that's the 795).

On ammo: All semi-autos can be finicky about what they like. As a rule (in my experience), nothing really likes Remington .22 ammo, so I'd just stay away from that. Or at least buy some in small boxes to try before spending a lot of money on a large quantity. I have found that the "cure" for ammo-finicky .22's is usually Winchester 333 Bulk (available at WalMart) or Winchester 555 bulk (same stuff, just a bigger box). And if this "cure" doesn't work, move on to the "super cure" of CCI MiniMags. MiniMags are a little more expensive per round than the Winchester 333.

On dry firing: I don't dry-fire any of my .22's (intentionally) no matter what the manufacturer says. Old habits die hard.

On leaving them cocked: Don't worry about it. The springs in there are ALWAYS under tension/compression, even when uncocked. They are just under a little more tension when they are cocked, that's all. Besides, springs DO NOT wear out due to being held compressed. They tolerate that just fine - no problems. They wear out by being compressed, then released, then compressed, then released. In other words, through normal use. How they are stored between uses - compressed or not - doesn't make any difference.

Just a point on cleaning. If possible clean the bore from the chamber end. Over time, it lessens wear on the rifling at the muzzle, and that is good for accuracy.

I have heard that with good 22 ammo, you need not clean the bore at all, or only very infrequently.

Thanks for all the input! The only thing i can tell thats different in care taking about the marlin 795 is the bore. Since it has micro rifling i have heard you cannot wirebrush it or certain solvents.

If solvents will eat away the rifling inside the bore, that rifle has some really serious problems! I don't think I'd worry too much about that silly rumor.

Harsh solvents can sometimes damage the finish of certain rifles (mostly the ones where the receivers are painted, not blued). Note that the receiver of the Marlin 795 IS painted not blued, so try to keep your solvents confined to the bore and the insides of the receiver and components therein. Don't saturate the OUTSIDE of the receiver with solvent and go at it with a wire brush. But that's standard advice for any rifle. I've never heard of solvents damaging the bore. Unless you're using sulfuric acid or something.

FWIW, I use a Boresnake dropped in from the chamber end. And either Hoppes #9 or Breakfree CLP for cleaning. Followed up with a itsy-bitsy amount of RemOil down the bore (on the tail end of the Boresnake) if I used Hoppes #9. If I used the Breakfree CLP, it already has a protectant in it so I don't use the RemOil.

Just orderd a Otis FG-200 Cleaning kit yay! Hopefully getting a few rounds of CCI Tomorrow whewt! Dying to see if I can go shooting this weekend Yippie!

The Otis kits are great for cleaning. They do a nice job and they pack up small. It's worth mentioning that you don't have to use their special patches and CLP once you run out. You can use regular patches and your choice of cleaning solutions. Add a stiff nylon bristle brush and a couple lint-free cotton towels (usually sold for cleaning dishes) to your kit and you should have everything you need.

The only thing that Micro Otis kit can't do is remove a bullet stuck in the bore (i.e. a Squib). For that you would need an actual cleaning rod (or properly sized wooden dowel). However, if you use good ammunition, that is a very rare occurrence and, if it does happen, you would be better off taking the rifle to someone more knowledgeable anyway so they can remove it without damaging anything.

Otherwise, have fun shooting and remember to be safe!

Here's my advice:

Before loading your rifle:

1. Go to this website and read the National Rifle Association firearms safety rules. http://www.nrahq.org/education/guide.asp

2. Check with your state Natural Resources Dept and see when the next firearms/hunter safety class is scheduled and sign up.

3. Join the NRA to preserve your right to do what you are doing now.

4. Go easy on the oil and solvents. You don't need much (if any) at all. Just wipe your rifle down if it gets rained on.

5. Buy a nice cloth gun case

6. Start saving your money for your next .22. You will buy more.

Congrats, that's a nice choice for a first gun. For ammo, I'm convinced that each .22lr likes a certain type. My Marlin 60 hates Remington Thunderbolt, while other guns like that crap. About every fifth round is a dead round or misfire in my Marlin 60. I went cheap on the .22lr ammo trying to save money. It turns out I'm actually paying more because of the dead rounds, misfires and the headache. CCI has been pretty good.

As for cleaning a .22lr, I have no plans to clean the bore of mine. I know two people who woke up one day and decided to clean the bore of their perfectly running .22lr rifle after not cleaning it for several years. Each said their gun was not the same afterward. It was less accurate, etc. If you do decide to clean the bore, make sure you are careful and don't treat it like a shotgun, a Glock or any other idiot-proof gun. A .22lr is not the same.