Since I do trap cats, I was interested in what a fellow trapper suggested for the sooner-or-later trapping of a skunk.

Clear plastic and an open pickup truck figure predominantly into the equation. If you're planning on shooting the skunk while in the trap, most of the other steps aren't necessary, but do NOT grasp the dead skunk by the tail. If you have to ask why, You're just one of those people who have to learn the hard way.

First, she said that skunks have to raise their tails to spray, and if the trap is fairly low, they may not spray because the stuff gets all over them, and it is said that they don't like to get on themselves. I can understand this, but neither of us knows for certain if it's true.

Make sure you know how to use the trap, you'll usually only get one chance with any animal, and raccoons will teach their young to avoid them. (I know for a fact that this is true, unfortunately.)

Don't bury the trap in shrubbery, as you'll need to get to all sides of it.

Invest in some CLEAR heavy-duty (at least 6 mil) plastic sheeting. Cut it about as high and wide as you can comfortably reach (up and across) without tripping on it.

Approach the trap with the plastic held up in front of you. Approach slowly and quietly. Lay the plastic over the trap, being sure to keep it between you and Stinky.

Grasp the trap at both ends while holding the plastic securely to keep the trap covered. Lift and carry it to the back of the pickup and set gently in the bed. Tuck the plastic under the trap, and secure with bungee cords to keep the wind from blowing it off. Anchoring the trap so it doesn't slide around and scare the skunk is probably a good idea. Close the tailgate.

I read where relocated racoons (tagged) can find their way 'home' (yours) if not taken at least eight miles away. For skunks, raccoons and opossums, I would just round it off to ten miles.

Most traps I've used have a latch on the release panel that you can fasten when you're ready to release the animal. MAKE SURE you know where this is and how to use it. When you and Stinky reach his new home, fasten the release bar back, place the trap where you'll have good footing and aim it at some bushes.

Pull out any plastic edges that are under the trap so the sheeting is free and just laying over the trap. Fasten the locking bar. Straddle or stand behind the trap and slide the sheeting back just enough to clear the door.

With most animals, you can just lift the back end of the trap and let the animals slide out the front, maybe with a little shake for opossums, as their weight will open the door.

With skunks, I would just fasten the latch so the door will open freely when the skunk pushes against it, and *I* would retreat to the car. Sooner or later he will find his way out and trundle away. If you want to stand there and shake him out, I guess you could do it, but I wouldn't...

Other tips:
* It is illegal to relocate skunks in some states. Call your local Fish & Wildlife Dept, usually in the state or federal section of the phone book.

* Lock up all your dogs and kids as soon as you know you've caught a skunk.

* Wear old clothes and shoes, you may have to throw them away.

* Make every attempt not to scare the skunk. Scared skunks spray. Sometimes they give warning by hissing or stomping their front feed very fast, sometimes they just spray without warning.

* Don't put the loaded trap in your car, you will NEVER get the smell out.

* Skunks are common carriers of rabies. Although normally seen at dawn and dusk, a skunk out in midday should be suspect. Call your local Fish & Wildlife, or Animal Control.

* A deodorizer solution can be made from one quart of UNOPENED 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda, and 2 tsp. of liquid soap. You can dilute it with a quart of water if you need to treat a larger area (or a larger dog). If the trap stinks, use it on the trap, too.

Sue