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#214991 - 01/15/11 11:02 PM How to Power-Down your home....
MrEnergyCzar Offline
Stranger

Registered: 12/24/10
Posts: 8
Loc: CT
This video shows how people can power-down their homes energy usage...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUCl1TruUfo

MrEnergyCzar

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#214996 - 01/16/11 12:17 AM Re: How to Power-Down your home.... [Re: MrEnergyCzar]
ireckon Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 04/01/10
Posts: 1629
Loc: Northern California
Thank you for the good ideas. I learned some things! I'll comment on things that I'd do differently...

A gas stove is generally more efficient than an electric.

I have fans in the bathrooms, but they're not necessary if I'm trying to shave every bit of energy usage. Each of my bathrooms has a window, and I also light matches/candles to eliminate smell.

I use more water with low capacity toilets because of multiple flushes every time. If I could do it again, I'd have full capacity toilets in all my bathrooms, without a choice of low capacity.
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If you're reading this, it's too late.

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#215006 - 01/16/11 01:37 AM Re: How to Power-Down your home.... [Re: MrEnergyCzar]
GarlyDog Offline
τΏτ
Old Hand

Registered: 04/05/07
Posts: 776
Loc: The People's Republic of IL
Great ideas. Thanks for posting. I am going to make some changes immediately. Also, welcome to the forum.
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#215028 - 01/16/11 02:30 PM Re: How to Power-Down your home.... [Re: MrEnergyCzar]
ki4buc Offline
Old Hand

Registered: 11/10/03
Posts: 710
Loc: Augusta, GA
My roommate/landlord likes this stuff. I cost him a whole $0.02 the other day for leaving 3 26 watt CFL bulbs in the garage on for an hour. It seems a little overboard to me to try and save so little money over such a long period of time. $500 over 30 years? $500 is a single student loan payment or rent!

I'm the person that will gladly go across the street to the empty gas station and pay an extra $0.25 a fill up (or $1.00 on the credit card ($0.10 diff for using CC) ) ($13/yr, and $52/yr respectively) so that I'm not sitting in the middle of the road, risking my car, $500 car insurance deductible, and inconvenience if I get hit, waiting to get into the $0.02 cheaper gas station.

I have to admit though, I'm amazed that a digital clock uses 10 Watts on a stove! I've heard of vampire electronics, but that seems excessive.

Am I missing something here? Most people I know that do this do it for the money aspect, not something intangible like "the environment". With such little savings over the short term, it doesn't seem to be able to cause a noticeable shift in being able to spend that money somewhere else.

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#215041 - 01/16/11 05:03 PM Re: How to Power-Down your home.... [Re: MrEnergyCzar]
dougwalkabout Offline
Crazy Canuck
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/03/07
Posts: 3240
Loc: Alberta, Canada
I don't mind the OP per se, but I think MrEnergyCzar owes us full disclosure regarding the apparent business aspect. Otherwise it comes across as a shill.

That said, many of the ideas are sound, though they're hardly new information. The biggest challenge, with the biggest payoff, is a change in habits.

A couple of his strategies require careful and ongoing monitoring:
- the fridge timer has to be coupled with careful temperature monitoring to prevent illness or degraded food quality; personally I wouldn't let a fridge sit more than 4 hours
- the water heater timer is a good idea, but the water temperature must stay high enough to kill legionella bacteria

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#215043 - 01/16/11 05:18 PM Re: How to Power-Down your home.... [Re: ki4buc]
dougwalkabout Offline
Crazy Canuck
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/03/07
Posts: 3240
Loc: Alberta, Canada
Originally Posted By: ki4buc
I have to admit though, I'm amazed that a digital clock uses 10 Watts on a stove! I've heard of vampire electronics, but that seems excessive.


Not at all. Many draw more. The tech specs at the back of each manual will list this. If you add up the standby power (vampire power) on all your appliances, entertainment systems, computer/network systems, etc., it comes out to a surprising number.

Now add up the cost of this wasted energy that you're paying for. Look at the number for a year, for five years, for ten years. That's quite a tidy little nest egg that's being thrown out.

Worse yet, if you're in a hot climate, all the vampire power is radiated as heat. So you're using (and paying for) extra electricity for air conditioning to remove your wasted electricity. Argh!

The simple power bar with a physical switch pays for itself almost instantly, and then pays you for being smart enough to use it.

BTW, I think my last electric bill was under $80. This with a well, septic tank, electric stove, forced-air furnace, and complete home office -- in a cold climate. Good habits pay off.

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#215044 - 01/16/11 05:30 PM Re: How to Power-Down your home.... [Re: MrEnergyCzar]
MrEnergyCzar Offline
Stranger

Registered: 12/24/10
Posts: 8
Loc: CT
Thanks for the comments.... For me it all ties back to being less financially vulnerable in the long term future by learning to live with as little energy in any form as possible. I'm basically converting dollars that are still worth something now to a solar power system or other things that will always produce or save KWH. KWH represent work or energy that currently dollars buy. I'm not comfortable relying on future dollars to purchase units of energy. Bizarre I know.

MrEnergyCzar

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#215045 - 01/16/11 06:18 PM Re: How to Power-Down your home.... [Re: dougwalkabout]
ki4buc Offline
Old Hand

Registered: 11/10/03
Posts: 710
Loc: Augusta, GA
[quote=dougwalkaboutWorse yet, if you're in a hot climate, all the vampire power is radiated as heat. So you're using (and paying for) extra electricity for air conditioning to remove your wasted electricity. Argh![/quote]

I still have CRTs, and in the Winter, I don't have to turn the regular heat on. laugh

It seems the underlying ideas are: better able to handle long-term price rises and not being wasteful. I can see if you're paying $80, if the generation prices quadruple, you're paying $320, but if I paid $100, I'll be paying $400, which at that time, $80 might be able to buy something!

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#215077 - 01/16/11 09:51 PM Re: How to Power-Down your home.... [Re: ki4buc]
Art_in_FL Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/01/07
Posts: 2432
Originally Posted By: ki4buc
[quote=dougwalkaboutWorse yet, if you're in a hot climate, all the vampire power is radiated as heat. So you're using (and paying for) extra electricity for air conditioning to remove your wasted electricity. Argh!


I still have CRTs, and in the Winter, I don't have to turn the regular heat on. laugh

It seems the underlying ideas are: better able to handle long-term price rises and not being wasteful. I can see if you're paying $80, if the generation prices quadruple, you're paying $320, but if I paid $100, I'll be paying $400, which at that time, $80 might be able to buy something![/quote]

My LCD monitor went out in the fall and I've resisted replacing it because I had a CRT in storage and realized the extra warmth might be good.

Your point about the extra electrical power coming off as heat, heat you suffer from and pay to remove using AC is very good. I went into a restaurant and noticed they used 75w MR-16 lights. Lots of them. I counted forty. Which run any time the place is open. Which is like running a 3000 watt heater, and then running an AC system to keep the building, sitting in the Florida sun, from getting too hot.

The same situation in, I don't know, North Dakota perhaps, would be different. You might need the heat. But down here it is costly and wasteful.

Of course using less power is good but the only way to make sure you are getting the most bang for your buck is to carefully consider the situation. You almost always get the biggest payoff going with CFLs in any fixture that stays on the longest.

To figure out the payoff you need to have some idea of the cost you pay for electricity, the number of hours a day the light stays on, and any factors that might shift the calculation. The average cost of electricity you can get off your power bill. Alternatively here is a nice resource:

http://www.eia.doe.gov/electricity/epm/table5_6_a.html

How long you burn the bulb depends on your use. If it stays on all night you can estimate 12 hours a night. Which will be high for summer use and low for winter but should average out about right.

Other factors are like those MR-16s in the restaurant where you pay for the light and then pay again to shift the heat out of the building.

I have porch lights front and back and a light in my bedroom/office, and another in my living room that stay on any time it is dark and/or I'm up. Figure the porch lights stay on 12 hours a day. the two main interiors 6-8 hours a day. Going from 60 and 75w incandescent bulbs to 13w CFLs made sense and I saw a good reduction in my power use in a single month. Payoff took only two months and I've saved ever since then.

Other fixtures have slower payoff and I've been much slower in converting. A good example is my hall light. It runs less than a minute a day on average. Payoff would take years.

There is also the matter of CFLs coming up to full light slowly. Particularly when it is below 40. They get better every year and in a room, say for a reading light, a few seconds coming up to full output isn't an issue. In a hallway it is annoying.

There is also the fact that CFLs, like any fluorescent light, tend to wear out by starting. Incandescent lights wear out during use. Fluorescent tubes last longest if started once and get left on. In the early 70s most department stores left their lights on 24/7 because the shakeout on price was that what they paid in electricity they more than lost in replacement costs.

Left on all the time CFLs will generally outlast the incandescent lamp they replace and save electricity doing it. Use a CFL in a location that gets turned off and on a lot and you don't see the longevity advertised.

Generally changing out incandescent lights for CFLs in fixtures that sty on at least a few hours a day is a no-brainer. Go for it and enjoy the savings. On less used lights it is a longer term proposition.

LEDs get tossed in a lot as the logical step up from CFLs. Maybe. They really aren't much more efficient and they cost five or ten times as much. On the up side LEDs don't suffer from early failure if they get turned off and on and they come up to full power immediately in the coldest temperatures. Making them ideal for specialized situations like hall lighting in an industrial freezer. Most people can make major efficiency gains for shorter money with common CFLs.

LEDs may indeed be the wave of the future but returns on investment are still low and payoffs are very slow. Give them twenty years. When the unit cost goes down to what CFLs cost now they will be the way to go.

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#215569 - 01/24/11 03:59 AM Re: How to Power-Down your home.... [Re: dougwalkabout]
MrEnergyCzar Offline
Stranger

Registered: 12/24/10
Posts: 8
Loc: CT
Thanks for the heads up on the bacteria in the hot water tank etc... I now have a heat pump hot water heater that uses the heat in the air to maintain the temp at 120F all the time...it uses less energy than the hot water timer on an electric tank and keeps the water the same temp all day... Uses 2 KWH per day for 50 gallon tank... I have a video of it but won't post it here..

MrEnergyCzar

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