When it comes to the dulfersitz, I guess I have an "advantage"-at the time I started climbing, it was the only technique for rappeling, so I learned all about rope burns and proper padding. I am comfortable with it, but the only sensible application today is for short, fairly easy rappels. One other thing, it is best done with a doubled rope - naturally. The advice to wear a harness while doing a dulfer is truly bizarre. One good, hot rappel will trash the harness completely.


In Yosemite Valley, NPS statistics indicate that rappeling is as dangerous as lead climbing - same fatality rate.

It is instructive to look at the American Alpine Club publications on accidents in North American mountaineering. There must be fifty ways to die on rappel - you definitely need to learn hands on from a good instructor. I was fortunate that way.