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#211273 - 11/13/10 03:59 AM O/T electrical question
Susan Offline
Geezer

Registered: 01/21/04
Posts: 5163
Loc: W. WA

I have two bathroom lights, a regular incandescent ceiling light, and a single 4' fluorescent over the sink. When I flip on the wall switch, the incandescent one goes on, but the fluorescent one usually doesn't. But if I reach up and touch it, it goes on. Sometimes, I don't actually even have to touch it -- I can feel a little buzz and it goes on before I make contact with it.

Why is this? Remember, to me, electricity and magic are the same thing... small words, short sentences required.

Sue, electrically challenged

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#211276 - 11/13/10 04:34 AM Re: O/T electrical question [Re: Susan]
hikermor Offline
Geezer in Chief
Geezer

Registered: 08/26/06
Posts: 7705
Loc: southern Cal
One possibility might be that the contact pins at the end of your tube are not securely seated in the fixture. It might also be a defective ballast. I will readily defer to anyone here who really knows fluorescents.

I would joggle the tube around a bit and see if that helps. I usually talk to it as well. At least I feel better.
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#211278 - 11/13/10 05:26 AM Re: O/T electrical question [Re: Susan]
Art_in_FL Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 09/01/07
Posts: 2432
Replace the tube.

A clue will be to look at the tube closely. Grey or black bands at either end indicate a fluorescent lamp at the end of its life cycle. Replacement of the tube is the next logical step.

If that fails, try remounting several times as positioning can be tricky, you get into checking the ballast and tombstones and it slides into being cheaper, and more time efficient, to simply replace the entire fixture. A thirty year old fixture is typically ripe for replacement.

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#211286 - 11/13/10 04:32 PM Re: O/T electrical question [Re: Susan]
stevenpd Offline
Journeyman

Registered: 09/15/07
Posts: 81
Loc: SoCal
I'd try the starter if there are no black bands at either end. Otherwise it is the ballast that needs to be replaced.

Quote:
When fluorescent lights begin flickering, it is a warning sign that something is amiss. It might be one of three things; worn-out tubes, a failing ballast, or a failing starter. When fluorescent bulbs get old, their ends darken and they begin flickering. Once this occurs, the bulbs should be replaced. If the fixture has multiple tubes or is installed in a hard-to-reach location, it's best to replace all the tubes at the same time.

Worn starters can also cause flickering. They are seldom found on newer fluorescent lights but are quite common on older models. They are a short metal cylinder with two contacts on one end. They are plugged into the fixture and supply the initial jolt of electricity that lights the tubes. They are easy to locate and replace. If you suspect your starter is failing, take it along when you buy the replacement. There are several models, and while they are the same size and shape, the wattage of the tubes in your fixture determines which one you will need.

The third cause of flickering is a failing ballast. Ballasts perform the same function as starters and are frequently found in multi-tube fluorescent fixtures. They are also easy to replace, but can be very expensive. Prices range from $14 to $75. For the price of a new ballast, you might be able to buy a new fixture and tubes.


Read more: DIY Fluorescent Lighting Repairs | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/way_5618429_diy-fluorescent-lighting-repairs.html#ixzz15BVTqSl6

And here is some info about replacing the ballast.
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(Prior Preparation Prevents [censored] Poor Performance)

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#211287 - 11/13/10 05:57 PM Re: O/T electrical question [Re: Susan]
KTOA Offline
Journeyman

Registered: 02/08/04
Posts: 86
Loc: SoCal
Yeah that's one of those questions that is a long discussion on a whiteboard.

In short you are becoming part of the circuit through capacitance. You're changing the resistance in the circuit.

When you are driving your car and you come to a stop at a stoplight and it suddenly changes for you? That's your car becoming part of the circuit through wires embedded in the street. Next time you roll up to a stop you'll see small cuts in the asphalt where they embedded the street light wires that your car affects.

Also applies to the small house lamps that turn on by just touching the fixture itself.

As others have said, try replacing the lamps and/or starter (small silver cylinder). If its the ballast it's usually cheaper to just replace the fixture.

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#211288 - 11/13/10 06:15 PM Re: O/T electrical question [Re: Susan]
dougwalkabout Offline
Crazy Canuck
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/03/07
Posts: 3238
Loc: Alberta, Canada
Lots of small things can go wrong. In theory, you can replace every part of the fixture. In practice, IMO, anything other than replacing the tube is generally not worth it; get a new fixture.

Moisture in a bathroom can corrode contacts at an accelerated rate. It doesn't take much to make a fluorescent "fussy."

The first thing I'd do: remove the tube, and gently check the pins at both ends for "wiggle" or corrosion. If it seems okay, turn the tube end for end; then install it, and very carefully rotate a full 360 a couple of times. This may clean the contacts enough to get a reliable connection.

The next move is to replace the tube. Sometimes they go wonky without much external indication.

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#211289 - 11/13/10 06:23 PM Re: O/T electrical question [Re: Susan]
Am_Fear_Liath_Mor Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/03/07
Posts: 3078
There are LED direct replacement tubes available. No flickering, no warm up time and a choice of colours are available (i.e. warm white colours are available without that harsh fluorescent effect) and you save some electricity/cash with their lower operating costs.

http://www.earthled.com/DirectLED-t8-fluorescent-led-tube-replacement.html

No ballast, electronic or inductive types to worry about and no mercury exposure if you crack a fluorescent tube etc. You just rewire direct to the switch/mains and bypass the ballast/starter.

They are more expensive to purchase initially but lifetime costs are usually paid back with 5-10 years. From a safety point of view they are also safer if you live in earthquake country as there are no glass breakages if the older fluorescent tubes decide to fall from their fixtures.

There are also dimmable LED tube replacements as well if you want to fit an electronic dimmer switch.


Edited by Am_Fear_Liath_Mor (11/13/10 06:35 PM)

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#211291 - 11/13/10 07:53 PM Re: O/T electrical question [Re: Am_Fear_Liath_Mor]
hikermor Offline
Geezer in Chief
Geezer

Registered: 08/26/06
Posts: 7705
Loc: southern Cal
Thank you very much for the link. Seems like some good stuff, especially for us (earth)quakers....
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Geezer in Chief

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#211298 - 11/14/10 03:44 AM Re: O/T electrical question [Re: Susan]
Susan Offline
Geezer

Registered: 01/21/04
Posts: 5163
Loc: W. WA
Okay, thanks!

This bulb is new, the ends aren't dark. I replaced the old one last month when it started doing this, but it happens with this one, too.

It may not be the ballast if that causes flickering. It doesn't flicker at all once it goes on.

That starter is a totally new concept to me! It almost sounds like that may be the problem.

I knew you would know!

Sue

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#211349 - 11/15/10 04:01 PM Re: O/T electrical question [Re: Susan]
UncleGoo Offline
Enthusiast

Registered: 12/06/06
Posts: 390
Loc: CT
Replace the whole fixture with a daylight balanced one: that fluorescent light makes you look like heck anyway, especially pre-coffee.
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