Last weekend I was going through some stuff in storage at my folks, and what did I find but several old Hibben throwing knives. They aren't much to look at, but they aren't bad after you redo the edge- I've carried the one that was apart from the others as a utility knife off and on for years. Blade is about 3", over all length... not sure, but I know it isn't as long as an open 91mm Victorinox. The nice thing is that without the hinge pin they are stronger than most folders, a lot lighter, and I have the ones with cord wrapped handles so I've got about 30" off mason twine-grade cord if I need it. I put a convex profile on the one I EDC and tappered the butt down so I can use that as a as pry bar, while the spine is at a sharp enough angle that I strike a ferro rod with it. And they are thick enough that I might try light batoning with them. It isn't the sharpest knife I own, but I also don't worry if I have to use it scrape a battery terminal or cut wire with it, either.

The down side is my only sheaths are nasty nylon and vinyl jobbies that are designed to hold a set of three. My EDC one is in a *cough* sheath made from light cardboard and duct tape. Uhmm... yeah, I'd like to have better.

What I have in mind is just a simple, light sheath with a couple of rivits in it that I can run zip ties or paracord through. I'd prefer for them to be ambidexterous, and with the back flat. And low cost- the knives are like $25-30 for a set of three, so I'd feel really silly putting one in a $20 sheath. Optimally, I'd like to get half a dozen for under $50, really.

Any one know of any kydex workers who are cheap but decent?

A Few yrs back I bought a set of 6 throwers,& Had the same dilemna.I bought some Aluminum flange from Home Depew,It easily cuts with any scissors or shears,& I crafted some sheaths out of it,Using a pair of Pliers to fold over the edges,& Crimp them down,then I used pieces of 1" shrink tubing over this,then finished with lengths of 10-speed innertube.I use these alongside my G.I. Canteen,between the Cup/cover.They are super flat,& Unnoticeable,Until they're needed!

Maybe you? One of many DIY articles on the 'net: http://www.paracordsecrets.com/articles/35/article.html

Edit: This site adds some nice pictures, detail, practical DIY tools, and other tips.

http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_kydexsheath2.htm

Ironraven, I don't know if Jeff (rainwalker ---link below)can make them that cheap but you could e-mail him and ask him. Jeff has made tons of sheaths both in kydex and leather for tons of us and he is by far one of the best sheath makers around. He can make a sheath for just about anything but I'm not sure in your price range and I can understand paying more for the sheath than the knife. But here is his link and you could ask him anyway if you want, I would definitely recommend him for custom and exotic knives as well as regular knives. I always e-mail him and see what he charges and I have never been disappointed with the quality or durability of his works. Bellow are some examples of his work he has done for me.

http://sites.google.com/site/rainwalkercreations/Home







Triple back



Double Back

Very nice knives. I'm curious about the metallic looking edges on the sheaths in the B/W pics. Is the purpose to prevent cut-through?

find a discarded pick-up truck bedliner. The material is heat moldable with a heat gun. Wack off a piece of the bedliner, heat it up and wrap it around the knife. Let it cool and cut it to fit. Done...

I have made lots of sheaths and other stuff from this remarkable cast off material.

Nomad

Thanks Byrd_Huntr, no that's not metallic, it just looks that way in the picture. It is polished leather and the way the camera reflects it.

Um, try knifekits(dot)com. .080 or thicker kydex and their hammer rivet kit. For bare minimum budget. closed cell camping pad (the blue ones) some plywood and clamp or 2 and you got a press, or use a pair of pot holders.

The web has free tutorials for kydex, just look (not great tutorials last time I checked but, get you started decent ones).

The price you want and quantity lean towards a do-it-yourself type ordeal. You will need 1-2sq feet of material (less if you do not make belt hooks/loops out of the scraps).

Do not heat over 350degF or toxic fumes will be released and work in a well ventilated area. wear some gloves its 350deg when you pull it out of the oven.

You can make other gear holders with it as well. Although you tend to use different foarming items to get the shapes you want.

In case you could not tell I do some of this stuff on the side. Actually I got 3 sheaths I am working on this weekend, 2 for customs and a 1 production blade.

So... is there an alternative tool to the rivet setter? I'm trying to do this for fairly low cost.

I really don't have any space to work in my apartment, I'd have to go to my folks (hour and half each way) to have a work area. I have even less storage space, so getting a tool I'd use for this project and possibly never using it again isn't a happy option for me. (And yes, I know, I'll probably get into it more once I start, but....) Or can I use leather rivets, or any other alternatives?

Also, I've hear mixed accounts of using a toaster oven- yes or no in your opinion?

Ironraven,
Not trying to get you into the full press riveter or the journeyman model. Look at the hand setter tool for about $12.00 (not great but will set the rivets for less money than anything else I have seen). I would recomend the 1/4 inch rivets as they are easier to fit 550 cord/para cord through (you still wanting to just tie it to your pack?). You will need a hard surface you can hammer on with the hand setter. The one draw back is your rivets may split more on the side you crimp with this tool, though I have split a few on the arbor press setup i use.

Could you be more specific on leather rivets? I am not clear on which ones you refer to (screw and post, two piece). I have never tried other items, though I have seen some of the thick kydex (.093,.125) done without rivets for zero magnetic signature (I advise against this with steel blades).

Toaster ovens are ok and work if it is all you have. I have only used my regular kitchen oven. Set at about 350deg for about 5 min, pull out and set in a press contraption I made (4 bar clamps some plywood and 1 piece of 12x12 sheath making foam cut in half). I either open the window (windy days)or window and box fan to vent the area.

If you have a smallish sturdy table and small section of counter top to set up how you will press the kydex/knife sandwich, you have enough room to work this stuff.

Hope this answers most of you questions.
-Joe