We needed to level out the garden so we could get our deer fence up, and in order to do that we had to bring in a good amount of dirt. On the far corner of the garden we had to raise it about 3.5'. Lucky for us we also want a pond, and had a perfect source of dirt to level the garden area, and eventually the entire back yard.

This is after about 6 hours of tractor work:
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/3594/pondworkday1.jpg

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7430/pond2.jpg

It doesn't look like much, but where the cedar is (far right) to the chair on the left was filled with brush, small trees, etc that were cleared out. Then that area was leveled off, I probably got 20+ buckets of dirt from that area alone before I even started on the pond hole itself.

The hole itself was done entirely with the loader too, lucky for me this location was shady, in between two mountains, and still relatively moist! In, and out of the hole I went with the tractor utilizing the loader being ever so careful not to make the hole too steep to high-center my backhoe/brackets.

When I get time and a tractor to work more the pond will be dug out to the right of wall on the far side more, and about 10' toward where I was standing when I took the pictures, and of coarse deeper.

The garden got level, and it was time to return the tractor (rental), so the pond is on hold until I can find a great deal on a tractor to own our own. (Garden pics coming soon)

This was all done with a 40HP tractor. Probably the smallest one I would ever consider without going insane... we are looking to buy a 45-52hp since from the pond to the garden is all up hill and it barely makes it up with a load of dirt!

Source of water for the pond will be the natural creek that goes through that area in winter, and a 2nd well about 85' higher in elevation, and about 750' (or more) to the right. The end-goal is to have 2x2600g water tanks, solar/12v well pump, and gravity feed the pond. If we are lucky there may be enough pressure to use the water for the garden too w/out requiring a booster pump.. time will tell as purchasing a tractor and all the above is a lot of money. Most expensive veggies ever! L O L

[censored]" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/Kubota-L48-TLB-Tract...#ht_5225wt_1132

The price is not too bad considering thats probably 55k or so new.
Still expensive.

unless I find a deal, probably end up with out the cab!

Even if the tractor has no cab try to make sure it does have a roll cage. It might not seem to matter but I have seen a few machines flipped over and the cages with seat harnesses do save lives.

I was wondering if you intended to line the pond because the ground there looks pretty sandy.
If you do intend to line it what are you using and what will it cost?

Looks like a nice area, but my first thought was also if the dirt would hold water; looks like sandy loam. It's possible that you might hit a layer of clay that you could spread / line the pond with.

I will also second chickenlittle recommendation about the roll cage. Rollovers on steep and loose dirt is pretty common. It's also where you can bolt on a sun / rain cover. Worth every penny when you're out in the sun for hours.

I have a 35 hp New Holland (absolutely love it) and you'd be amazed what you can do once you get your technique down. We'd had a very bad drought the previous 2 years, and my stock pond had gotten to about a 4ft depth (normally 12ft). I took advantage and really opened up one side. This is all in pretty tough yellow clay. I can consistently set the blade and peel 1 inch deep x 5ft wide and 8 feet long every time. I opened up an area 40ft wide and 70ft long, tapering from 0 to 6ft deep last summer. The dirt went into a pretty large hill / shooting backstop.

A box blade and 3 point boom are also very useful implements to have.

Thanks for the comments!

I will hit clay in another few feet. In some places clay is only 6 inches down.. where I dug-out my ATV loading area (no ramps) I hit clay pretty much instantly, other areas like this it seems to be much further down. My septic report from the original install shows after 3' it was clay down as far as they tested.

Lukus - The tractor I rented was a New Holland, 40hp they said. Due to the layout of my land a full load of dirt in low, low I could barely crawl up the ROAD to the garden area. Another area I got dirt from about 200' away I have another road back up to the garden area and stalled there a couple times. Babying it up works, but it's not efficient at all, cost wise going from 40hp to 45 was not much I`m hoping the benefit of a few extra ponies will help with the hill. Other than the ability to keep her moving on an incline the 40hp was fine. What's funny is the slowest part of moving the dirt was going up the hill loaded, scraping it from the `pond area` into the loader was piece-o-cake... drive down scrape turn drive out one fluid movement pretty much. Like you said once you get it down it's great work! If I had a dump-trailer to fill with dirt, then the 40hp would be more than plenty I reckon!

If the tractor didn't have the backhoe attachment I would imagine the hill climb being a bit easier on her too! I guess owning it I could remove the backhoe for faster movement, and a lot easier clearance!

After we level out the 'direct' backyard with the pond dirt, the remaining pond dirt will go for some small hills along the front of the property for road barrier, etc.

Lukus - Do you find that you can dig/clear out with the loader pretty good all the time as long as you have room to make the hole as big as the tractor to prevent high-center, and ability to drive out?

How much counterweight does the backhoe attachment provide to a full bucket?

A lot!

I can still get the front tires off the ground with a full bucket going up hill due to the backhoe.

I wonder how long it takes to put the backhoe on and off.

If I had to buy a backhoe new/retail, I think I would save a couple grand more and just get a small excavator and keep them completely separate!

"Do you find that you can dig/clear out with the loader pretty good all the time as long as you have room to make the hole as big as the tractor to prevent high-center, and ability to drive out?"

I just have a front loader (with 4WD) and I've never high centered it while digging. I have driven off some small embankments, but never had any problems.

The bucket is more than a loader. You can load the tractor onto a trailor without ramps. It'll also let you get into and out of places you can't normally drive a tractor. I've gotten it hellishly stuck a couple of times. Once in slimy pond muck 3' deep. Part of the pond cleaning / widening I mentioned earlier. When connecting the newly dug to the old, I misjudged how far I could get in once and dropped right down into the muck (layer of dirt dries on top, so can't always tell if it's firm). Right up to the floorboards and then "floated"; took 45 minutes to pull myself out an inch at a time with the bucket.

Lukus - Cool info. I've only driven the ones I've rented, and I get the back hoe each time because I`m not sure if I`ll need it or not, and with it sticking off the backend a good 2-3' if you drive "down" too much the back end will get hung-up... Luckily the out riggers easily lift it up, I shove a log or so under there and drive out. Also extending the back hoe, and angling the bucket as a 'scoot' works too

I think i`m going to rent the tractor next w/out the backhoe and see how how much more power I have with the hill.

I def. need the backhoe at some point to finish my grey water system, and misc other tasks.

I think unless I can get the backhoe on a used tractor / complete setup buying new I would skip the backhoe, and just rent the tractor with the backhoe if I find myself needing it. $5-8k for a backhoe is pretty pricey unless your doing some serious digging, and even then saving up and getting a used mini-excavator for 9-13k seems like a MUCH better deal in the long run.

Off to save my pennies!

Any other advise, tips or tricks you have Lukus I appreciate it.

-Todd

Not to be a mullyguss: Do you have riparian/water rights for diverting/"tapping" a natural watercourse? I know there are places where they get really nutso about things like that. Just wondering.