Be careful you don't rely on it, the triflex sucks bad for firesteel. The spine is tempered soft to be tough, but at the same time too soft to scrape firesteel reliably, you'll get one or two strikes before it rolls and won't produce any more spark.

I've already got nearly 100 sparks out of it, so I'm not worried. Besides, I can't imagine ever having nothing on me but the Mora (I usually have a dedicated striker and two or three knives).

We might be using different type of firesteel, the misch type needs a sharp edge or it won't work.

Moras are good knives for the money. I've got several around the house.

Pros: cheap, easy to sharpen (wide bevel), cut well
Cons: take a long time to sharpen (wide bevel), cheap steel

They cut well due to their geometry, although the primary grind is thicker than I like. The blade is thin, but the saber grind is pretty thick, limiting cutting efficiency. It does the job, though, and protects the edge from damage when cutting wood, which seems to be one of the primary design considerations.

I prefer a full flat grind with a thin edge bevel and a microbevel. It tends to cut much better than the Mora's saber grind, but also needs a strong steel to be able to support the edge, such as O1, A2, D2, 52100, etc. Hardness has a lot to do with the strength as well. Some of the Queens in D2 such as the 4180 Hunter and their slip joints can really shine with the above treatment.

I like Moras for garden and yard work mostly. They are great for hanging on a backpack for a hike, they are really light and plenty for most needs. They work, but I don't consider them the be-all end-all like so many others do. Given the choice for survival, I'd prefer a SAK, but that's probably a topic for a different thread.

Mora use 1095 in carbon and 12c27 in SS, hardened to 58+ HRC, they are by no means cheap, way better than what you'd find in knives 3 or 4 times the price.

The laminated ones use O1 at 61 HRC.

Not really, the Queen knives I have in D2 have much better edge holding than any of my Moras, including my laminated ones. Easily 10x better, when I compare with either rope or cardboard cutting.

D2 is a high carbide tool steel, of course it'll be more abrasion resistant (i.e. rope and cardboard), but it's not nearly as tough and edge will not be as stable.

Also Moras are sharpened at 20~25°, if you do that with D2 all the carbide would fall out.

Different mora's have different grinds. My mora 511 certainly does. I am afraid I am not very good recognizing the different mora flavours, but I have one model with a saber grind and several with full flat grind.

I usually go less, about 15 on the secondary bevel, with a 20 deg microbevel at the edge, and D2 holds that just fine on animals and abrasive cutting such as cardboard. I go even lower on CPM M4 and 52100 with no problems, and the cutting efficiency is just insane, these knives are a real pleasure to use, and sharpen up in under a minute, including the D2 knife.

Again, I'm not bashing Moras. I'm not worshipping them either. They are a very good value for around $10 - $30. But a lot of folks claim that more expensive knives don't cut any better, and that is simply not true. Doziers, for example, cut much better, but are also more expensive.

As for the steels, much depends on the heat treat. 1095, for example, at the mid to upper 50's on the HRC scale, is a fair performer, edge holding on the lower end of acceptable for me. If you take the EXACT same steel, and heat treat it correctly up to 65 HRC, it truly becomes a super steel in terms of edge holding, bested by very few. It is incredible what range of capabilities this steel has.

I'd love to try the full flat ground ones, any more info on them? Thanks!