#208449 - 09/22/10 11:47 AM
Re: Whats Special About The Frost Mora?
[Re: sodak]
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Old Hand
Registered: 06/03/09
Posts: 982
Loc: Norway
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I'd love to try the full flat ground ones, any more info on them?
I'm away from home right now, but will check over the weekend. I think the model number is stamped on the blade or something.
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#208468 - 09/22/10 09:51 PM
Re: Whats Special About The Frost Mora?
[Re: sodak]
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Addict
Registered: 03/18/10
Posts: 530
Loc: Montreal Canada
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D2 is a high carbide tool steel, of course it'll be more abrasion resistant (i.e. rope and cardboard), but it's not nearly as tough and edge will not be as stable.
Also Moras are sharpened at 20~25°, if you do that with D2 all the carbide would fall out. I usually go less, about 15 on the secondary bevel, with a 20 deg microbevel at the edge, and D2 holds that just fine on animals and abrasive cutting such as cardboard. I go even lower on CPM M4 and 52100 with no problems, and the cutting efficiency is just insane, these knives are a real pleasure to use, and sharpen up in under a minute, including the D2 knife. Again, I'm not bashing Moras. I'm not worshipping them either. They are a very good value for around $10 - $30. But a lot of folks claim that more expensive knives don't cut any better, and that is simply not true. Doziers, for example, cut much better, but are also more expensive. As for the steels, much depends on the heat treat. 1095, for example, at the mid to upper 50's on the HRC scale, is a fair performer, edge holding on the lower end of acceptable for me. If you take the EXACT same steel, and heat treat it correctly up to 65 HRC, it truly becomes a super steel in terms of edge holding, bested by very few. It is incredible what range of capabilities this steel has. When I said 20~25° I meant inclusive, at 10° per side D2 will not hold up nearly as well. At 65HRC it's going to be too brittle, perhaps for a small slicing only folder but any field work will see the edge chip like ice.
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#208473 - 09/22/10 10:43 PM
Re: Whats Special About The Frost Mora?
[Re: jzmtl]
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Member
Registered: 06/11/07
Posts: 128
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D2 is a high carbide tool steel, of course it'll be more abrasion resistant (i.e. rope and cardboard), but it's not nearly as tough and edge will not be as stable.
Also Moras are sharpened at 20~25°, if you do that with D2 all the carbide would fall out. I usually go less, about 15 on the secondary bevel, with a 20 deg microbevel at the edge, and D2 holds that just fine on animals and abrasive cutting such as cardboard. I go even lower on CPM M4 and 52100 with no problems, and the cutting efficiency is just insane, these knives are a real pleasure to use, and sharpen up in under a minute, including the D2 knife. Again, I'm not bashing Moras. I'm not worshipping them either. They are a very good value for around $10 - $30. But a lot of folks claim that more expensive knives don't cut any better, and that is simply not true. Doziers, for example, cut much better, but are also more expensive. As for the steels, much depends on the heat treat. 1095, for example, at the mid to upper 50's on the HRC scale, is a fair performer, edge holding on the lower end of acceptable for me. If you take the EXACT same steel, and heat treat it correctly up to 65 HRC, it truly becomes a super steel in terms of edge holding, bested by very few. It is incredible what range of capabilities this steel has. When I said 20~25° I meant inclusive, at 10° per side D2 will not hold up nearly as well. At 65HRC it's going to be too brittle, perhaps for a small slicing only folder but any field work will see the edge chip like ice. I agree, 65 rc sounds way too brittle to be of much use, sounds like glass.
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#208474 - 09/22/10 11:12 PM
Re: Whats Special About The Frost Mora?
[Re: jzmtl]
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Addict
Registered: 03/20/05
Posts: 410
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D2 is a high carbide tool steel, of course it'll be more abrasion resistant (i.e. rope and cardboard), but it's not nearly as tough and edge will not be as stable.
Also Moras are sharpened at 20~25°, if you do that with D2 all the carbide would fall out. I usually go less, about 15 on the secondary bevel, with a 20 deg microbevel at the edge, and D2 holds that just fine on animals and abrasive cutting such as cardboard. I go even lower on CPM M4 and 52100 with no problems, and the cutting efficiency is just insane, these knives are a real pleasure to use, and sharpen up in under a minute, including the D2 knife. Again, I'm not bashing Moras. I'm not worshipping them either. They are a very good value for around $10 - $30. But a lot of folks claim that more expensive knives don't cut any better, and that is simply not true. Doziers, for example, cut much better, but are also more expensive. As for the steels, much depends on the heat treat. 1095, for example, at the mid to upper 50's on the HRC scale, is a fair performer, edge holding on the lower end of acceptable for me. If you take the EXACT same steel, and heat treat it correctly up to 65 HRC, it truly becomes a super steel in terms of edge holding, bested by very few. It is incredible what range of capabilities this steel has. When I said 20~25° I meant inclusive, at 10° per side D2 will not hold up nearly as well. At 65HRC it's going to be too brittle, perhaps for a small slicing only folder but any field work will see the edge chip like ice. Wrong. The knife we used was measured at 65 and we cut sod with it. Actual results in the field can be very different from what you read. I'm only posting on my experience, not on what I've only read. And my angles were inclusive as well.
Edited by sodak (09/22/10 11:12 PM)
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#209482 - 10/11/10 07:39 AM
Re: Whats Special About The Frost Mora?
[Re: sodak]
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Old Hand
Registered: 06/03/09
Posts: 982
Loc: Norway
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They cut well due to their geometry, although the primary grind is thicker than I like. The blade is thin, but the saber grind is pretty thick, limiting cutting efficiency. It does the job, though, and protects the edge from damage when cutting wood, which seems to be one of the primary design considerations.
I prefer a full flat grind with a thin edge bevel and a microbevel. It tends to cut much better than the Mora's saber grind
Different mora's have different grinds. My mora 511 certainly does. I am afraid I am not very good recognizing the different mora flavours, but I have one model with a saber grind and several with full flat grind. I'd love to try the full flat ground ones, any more info on them? Thanks! Sorry about the late reply, my knives were scattered all over the place... I haven't been able to find out which of my mora knives that have the saber grind. All I know is that is one of the "modern" moras with plastic handle and it says "stainless steel". It looks somewhat similar to the venerable 860 clipper, but it's not. My moras with flat grind are the 860 clipper (stainless), the 511 (carbon) and the 546 (stainless).
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#211938 - 11/26/10 07:09 PM
Mora -- Guard or No Guard?
[Re: MostlyHarmless]
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Sheriff
Pooh-Bah
Registered: 10/12/07
Posts: 1804
Loc: Southern California
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Been thinking about getting a Mora. I'd use it when out hiking and backpacking as a general utility knife but also as a survival knife in a pinch. Probably get the classic style with the red birch handle -- inexpensive so I won't be tempted to baby it. So, guard or no guard? Seems like, especially when wet, one's hand could slip onto the blade with no guard, but the one with the guard seems like it'd be less secure in the sheath and that the sheath might not hold up as well under hard use since the sheath has a slit (to accommodate the hand guard) that extends about 1/3 of the way down the sheath. Here, you can see the hand guard sticking out of the sheath:  Out of the sheath:  No hand guard:  HJ
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#211945 - 11/26/10 10:03 PM
Re: Mora -- Guard or No Guard?
[Re: Hikin_Jim]
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Veteran
Registered: 07/08/07
Posts: 1268
Loc: Northeastern Ontario, Canada
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Hi Jim,
The 2 similar Mora knives I have are gaurd-less. I once put my thumb on top of the blade thinking it was the back of the knife, no bad cut but sure got my attention. Three weeks ago I used both a standard "no-gaurd" Mora and a Mora Clipper to skin and butcher a deer. Both felt good in the hand but the standard wooden handle got a little slippery and I kept the thought that it was gaurd-less in the back of my mind.
I would next try one with a gaurd, I could always shortening it if I did not like the size or remove it all together if I wanted.
The carbon Mora I have gets sharp, but the laminated one gets really sharp! I do not know if you can get a laminated Mora with a handgaurd?
Later, Mike
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#211951 - 11/27/10 12:55 AM
Re: Mora -- Guard or No Guard?
[Re: Hikin_Jim]
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Veteran
Registered: 07/08/07
Posts: 1268
Loc: Northeastern Ontario, Canada
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Hey Jim, I have used a Mora Clipper a lot and really like it, I use it much more than the traditional oval wood handled Mora. Mora recently came out with a knife similar to the Clipper but with a slightly thicker blade and grip, it was called the Craftsman Allaround but I think it is now called the Top Q (SS) or High Q (Carbon steel). I have used the stainless version and it does feel a little stronger than a regular clipper. Both versions can be seen at Workwear Canada along with a short video by owner Paul Robinson. I am sure they are available in many places in the US also (Ragweed Forge?). Very high quality, functional knives for the price. I know what you mean about a knife being too nice to use, I have a first run Dave Canterbury/Blind Horse Pathfinder Knife that I cannot bring myself to take in the bush. I have started carrying a very nice Fallkniven F1 though. No ownership in any of these businesses ...yada, yada, yada; just a happy customer. Good Luck, Mike
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