Yesterday I plugged a gap in my tool collection upon receipt of a 36" Tove "Wrecking" Bar. It is surprisingly light. And wicked sharp! I feel like it should have a sheath on both ends.

Was persuaded to go with the Tove because it is part of Gransfors Bruks. Would like to also get a smaller Tove -- 12" or so -- but am looking for a cheaper and still quality alternative.

Any recommendations?

Do you all out in earthquake country have any preferences for size or brand of pry bars for emergency use?

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/tovewreckingbar36.aspx

TOVE Wrecking Bar 36"

TOVE Wrecking Bars are made of specially alloyed spring steel, tempered for extra strength. They feature extreme strength in relation to their length and low weight, and in tests performed by the National Swedish Institute for Materials Testing, the bars were found to withstand extreme strain without yielding. The chisel end and the nail claw end are both sharpened so the edges can easily be wedged behind ledges, planks, moldings, etc., and are designed with a broad surface to provide minimal damage and marring to the working head. The nail claw has a precision angled V-slot design to allow nails to be pulled regardless of the size of the head. Weighs 5.5 lbs.

I've always gotten by with a wonderbar. Granted, I sharpen the pry end some. I've used and abused them, once gutted an entire barn with one coupled with a hammer and a whole lot of New England stubborn. I now tend to use the generic ones, about half the price, so I can get two.

Something else I like is the Stanley FUBAR, both the large and small models. A decent multi-use tool, really suited for demo work but I can see how it can be used in an 'aftermath" situation also.

Nice pry bar Dagny, might have to save up for one. Looks like it would be very good for "clean" demolition.

For really tearing something apart i like using these,

http://www.very-clever.com/information/xbddddhhexva

Disclaimer, have no affiliation with this company, they just happened to have a picture of the pry bar.

Wow, expensive. I've used 36" crowbars, ones that go for less than $25, quite a bit and never had one break. I avoid the cheapest generic tools but paying more doesn't guarantee your getting more. Paying five times as much doesn't get you five times the functionality. Then again, if you feel better about it paying more and have the cash to spend you're welcome to go that way.

Hopefully you didn't intend for that to be as insulting as it is.

If you'll read the original post, it's about looking for a "cheaper" yet quality pry bar.

That doesn't fit your narrative of the spendthrift idiot.

Thank you, Ray, for the helpful information.

Nice price, especially on a 48" bar.

In the event of earthquakes, I am planning to get some use from the 6' long pry bars I have acquired, pointed on one end and a chisel on the other. I have not used these in building demo or in extrication, but I did acquire experience with them in reconstructing some historic dry stone masonry. I was very impressed at what a nice long pry bar could accomplish in moving heavy stones. I will be happy if I never have to post about their utility in the aftermath of an earthquake, but you can never tell.

I also have an assortment of smaller tools; a standard crowbar is right at bedside.

Lately we have experienced several very small quakes (2.5-2.9) locally (San Nicholas Island, Westlake Village, Carpenteria). I sure hope these aren't precursors...

That is NICE Dagny! I have an older bar about that size that must be 50 years old that my father had. I should see if I can find a stamp on it. I actually keep that one next to the door going into my barn. I really should buy a better one for the house.

Regarding size, I have a couple in the house and I wouldn't go under 12 inches and probably closer to 20 inches, sort of depends on what the construction of a door or window that you might have to access. I think the 12 inch would be fine for most interior doors but the 20 might be better for an exterior.

Anyhow, thanks for the links and information both Dagny and Ray.

Wrecking / pry bars need to be sized to the task so I have several to choose from depending on the task. This has also been a good excuse... uhm ... reason for getting new ones.

For demolition of wood frame structures the Wonder Bar (about 7-10") and a solid wrecking bar like your 36" Tove make a great combination, especially if you have a good hammer to encourage things a bit.

For banging away at concrete, and things anchored in concrete, I have a couple of cold chisels and a 14" FatMax wrecking bar that work well for me. Of course I am using a "small" hand maul (4 lbs) to whack away at these.

You might also consider a pair of similarly sized/shaped smaller bars for those times when you need to force something apart that isn't securely anchored in place.

In my experience sticking to name brands and selecting the bar size/shape to match the task has worked out pretty well. I haven't managed to seriously bend or break any of my bars, even when I do really dumb things with them. I wish I could say the same for some of my large (and now slightly bowed) screwdrivers.

- Eric

I like the design of the Tove wrecking bar, but I too have both a Wonderbar and Stanley pry bars in by tool box. But while I live in SoCal, I'm far enough away from the major fault lines that I feel we'll still have a house after the Big One and a pry bar should be fine for my needs. My only wrecking bar is old, no idea what brand -- not like they go bad with age.

That said, go to Home Depot and take one you like off the shelf. They're all good -- some smaller, a few bigger.