Since this is a pretty handy crew, I'm soliciting suggestions for tightening the driver-side mirror on my venerable Escort.

It's a simple ball-and-socket, with no provision for tightening it. It's old enough that on very hot days, it loosens up enough that air flow at freeway speeds is pushing the mirror out of position.

Any suggestions on how to tighten it up without permanently fixing it in place? Is there anything like Loc-Tite that would just increase the friction?

Stainless steel ball in a black plastic socket.

Can you pick up another socket (or the entire assembly) at a salvage and simply replace the existing one?

Loc-tite was my first thought, but I don't think Loc-tite and plastic are compatible. Hopefully someone who knows will tell me I'm wrong.

I had to replace both power mirrors on my truck (one of the mirrors had cracked) and I was quite surprised at how lost cost an off-brand replacement was. They've worked fine for over two years. Still, if you can find something at a salvage yard - go for it.

is there room for a stainless hose clamp to tighten on the ball, and not pull the ball out...possibly a piece of plastic hose, then a screw clamp... regards

Not sure what your mirror set-up looks like, so possible I'm way off-base.

Is it possible that you might have overlooked an out-of-view set-screw or integrated tightening-nut (speaking from personal experience).

Or maybe a screw to tighten hidden within the housing (requiring removal of mirror assembly from door to access)?

Off-the-wall suggestions (since you want a repair that won't permanently fix mirror position); these would preserve ability to adjust mirror position:

Is there some sort of retaining ring that can be removed, allowing you to pull the ball from the socket? If so, how about cutting a tiny square (1/4-in, 3/8-in?) from sheet of medium or fine grit sandpaper, fitting into socket, grit-side towards ball (not so coarse that ball won't fit back into socket, but coarse enough to provide decent friction against ball surface).

Or -- assuming ball can be removed from socket -- insert a small square of very thin, compressible foam into the socket, then reinstall the ball.

shim it, thats what i would do, unless a replacement was easy to perform and cost under $10.

Get some small piece silicone putty (silly putty) and jam it in there (there being around the mirror face, around the edges).

Or wrap something stiff and water proof like playing cards in electrical tape and jam it in a corner.

Or if you've got a thin silicone rubber band, stretch it around the mirror or jam thin sheet underneath (natural rubber will melt).

What might also work is flexible caulking (bathroom silicone),
but application would be trickier and it might stick too much.

You know that there is an approved BOB repair product designed to repair loose rear view mirrors.

http://www.octanecreative.com/ducttape/bodyshop/

It is a little over half way down the page.

Locktite is not recommended for use on plastics, at the bottom of the page on the right.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/25/t_lkr_green/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Green-290.htm

The green locktite is designed to capillary into an already assembled joint.

If you don't need to move it again, drill a small hole all the way through the joint and install a bolt in it. Don't tighten the bolt to much so as not to crack the plastic. Have seen that type of joint loosen up before and i have not seen a good repair to fix it. Good luck and let us know what you do.

Try wrapping some #0-coarse steelwool around the shaft,closest you can to the socket,Then use a straight screwdriver or butterknife,To push the steelwool into the socket.That should tighten it up,Quite well!Keep the screwdriver/butterknife handy,to periodically shove it back in,as it will back out over time.This worked on an old Mazda,of which had the poopy-design,You describe above. Good Luck,& Get to a Pick-a-Part asap!

Superglue it if you only keep it in one position. Drip around the joint, work the joint to let it seep into the gap and set position before it dries.

Another idea: Drill a hole in the plastic base that terminates at the stainless steel ball. Then insert a set screw through the hole.

It's not a shrouded mirror. The entire side mirror rides on a single ball-and-socket.

I'm single now, but don't plan to stay that way for the rest of my life (or even the rest of this car's life), so I have to preserve the capability of adjusting it for different drivers.

Believe me, I've looked all over for a way to tighten it. And removing it to replace it appears to require going from the inside of the door.

I'm not mechanically apt (and I pay the price for that), but the "replace it" suggestions are still appreciated.

I'm going to try the silicone caulk first, because I need to redo the tub anyway. Just a tiny bit, right around the edge of the socket, and try to work it down in by moving the mirror. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks

Popping that interior door panel off is much easier than you think. Go pick up a Chiltons or Hayes manual (<$15) if you can't find the instructions for free on the internet. A standard and phillips screw drivers are probably the only tools you would need to do it.

Careful with silicone caulking, that stuff sticks to everything and impossible to remove especially after it cured. And nothing sticks to it including paint.

What perfect timing! I just got a '92 Ford pickup (for $68, incl. title transfer) with that exact problem, and was wondering how to fix it.

I don't think the steel wool would work in a place like this, where you can't use sunscreen without first scraping off all the moss and mold.

Silly Putty... now that's my style!

Thanks, Guys!

Sue

I checked my old Jeep which has ball and socket mirrors. There are 3 bolts that surround the socket about an inch out. One of the 3 is adjustable with a screwdriver and I use that to tighten the mount.

Silicone caulk will take a Long Week to dry!100% silicone sealant will take 2 days to cure.JB weld will cure in 1 day,It is sandable,paintable but like 100% silicone,You will probably Never get it cleaned off completely,should you need to later on!Los Angeles to san Diego,We pretty much share the same climate so,Mold/Mildew is Not an issue!There is a Pick-a-part in National City,& Poway & Those junkyards are your BEST bet,Even if you aren't Mechanically Inclined,Bring a Hammer/Chisel with you,Good Luck!

Many libraries carry these manuals, and even if it isn't in your library it could be available via Interlibrary Loan.

Heh!

Okay, okay, sheesh! You guys just are NOT going to let me get away with a half-assed fix, are you?

This car's already "totaled out", so I'm not worried about keeping it cosmetically perfect. It has no resale value to worry about any more.

But I didn't get to it this weekend. If the door panel's really that easy to remove, replacing it might be an option after all. I'll check it out.

(Sheesh. Gonna make me do it right, whether I want to or not. I guess that's what I get for asking people that know what they're talking about.... <GRIN!>)