To me, watt ratings only means that the manufacturer is pushing an obsolete product, their marketing department haven't got the faintest clue what they're talking about, or both....

Rating LEDs in watt only had a meaning when there was a rat's race of making more light by pumping more current through the LED. In those days, a 5 watt LED would be brighter than a 3 watt LED. That route was abandoned for the quest of more efficient LED (1 watt LED latest generation being brighter than old generation 5 watt LED... and with 1/5th of the power consumption, the run time is 5 times longer...).


Dive ratings are a completely different animal than "waterproof" flashlights. A dive light has to cope with substantial water pressure. Most waterproof flashlights can take a quick dunk in a pond or a long period in the rain, but take it down to 10 meters and the pressure on the outside is 2 bar (2000 hPa) versus 1 bar (1000 hPa) on the inside... with that kind of pressure difference, water WILL be forced through unless the light has been purpose built to withstand it.


Likewise, explosion rating will exclude most of the lights at the market today....


I like the original list, but it is out of reach with current technology. There is still a choice between
- Long run time
- Bright as heck
- Small
Pick 2, but not all 3.

What you CAN get is either something with multiple levels. Say a less than 5 lumens low with absurdly long run times. This is more than enough for most close proximity tasks. And a 20 lumens "working" level light for the time period suggested. 20 lumens is plenty for most things in the outdoors and brighter than many old fashioned incandescent flashlights, but it is not enough for spotting things at the 100-150 yard range. You need a third level for that. used continuously you're somewhere close to 2 hour run time on this setting, but if you only use the maximum for short bursts you can have very long run times.

So... that leaves you with either long run time, functional "working light" levels and skipping the "long range, bright as heck" part of the requirements,
OR going for a 3-mode light, using the highest setting in brief bursts,
OR skipping part of your run time requirements,
or just carrying more spare batteries...

As a work light - my Pelican 2xAAA mity-light is diveproof (did many years of 120ft dives) and has worked at 15,000ft. It claims explosion proof - not tested it but I haven't exploded yet!
It's a regular bulb not a LED but one I've had for more than 15years is still going strong.

As a EDC I have a bunch of cheap LED coin cell LEDS secreted in most pockets and on most keyrings.
And in the winter I have a couple of single AAA Fenix knock-offs.

I work carry a Leatherman Serac S3 which is small, light and has varying output levels. I bought it at the factory store on clearance.

It replaced a Leatherman Monarch 500 (the old one) which was very robust but heavy. Not regulated either.

That replaced a Surefire 6p which is one overrated light and not up to the knocks I give my lights.

At work we have Pelican Sabrelites which are MHSA rated but have a poor light output relative to a modern led light. The battery holders are fragile too but Pelican replaced a bunch of ours under warranty without question.

I don't think that there's any light anywhere that meets all of Art_in_FL's criteria.

The Quark series from 4sevens.com is, in my experience, fantastic. My EDC light is a Quark 123. Additionally, service from 4sevens.com is outstanding. The Preons might be a better fit for Art's form factor; I don't own any Preons...yet.

I have no affiliation with them other than as a very happy customer.