Check the type of match you've got. BCB is the Rolls Royce, some imitators are inferior.

I've struck about 300+ BCBs over the years and I always used a standard striking motion.

Be prepared to waste a good few of these (expensive) matches to perfect your technique before you need them.

Then get up onto Kinder Scout in January with a 30mph wind from the North, remove glove, sample the windchill for 10 minutes and try again - this will modify you action probably!!! LOL

I think that there are a other variables in the striking of these matches.

The effective match strike is one that generates sufficient friction and pressure. With matches that require a specific striker there is a need for the chemicals to interact - pressure. The Jabbing provides friction under pressure but the pressure often is dispersed by the fracturing of the match-stick thus sending the head (sometimes the flaming head) flying off to the side and leaving the puzzled, frustrated survivor in the cold holding the broken end of the match.

My approach is to risk burning my first finger. I find that if I hold the match stick between second finger and thumb and then press the head against the striker with my first finger and drag the match accross the striker while putting pressure on the head of the match directly I successfully strike the match everytime (until I wear out the striker). By putting my finger on the chemical tip of the match and applying pressure that way I don't risk breaking the match stick. I do, however, risk burning my finger in the initial blaze of the match. I found that the practice and instinct to get my finger out of the way quickly was easier than learning to "jab-strike" the match without snapping the matchstick.

Just my $.02

JT,

<< Do you really find it difficult to strike these types of matches normally? >>

No - but they break frequently and can be difficult to light IME when scrubbed conventionally. The "stab" method works first time, everytime for me and since learning it, I have not broken a single match.

I found the conventional method works reliably for me only if I support the head of the match, much like many folks strike a paper match. Based on my experiences with paper matches, that could lead to an occasional "exciting" moment if my finger temporarily adheres to the match, so I switched to the "stab" method and learned it.

On two super-unit occasions, Scouts broke enough of these using conventional method to make my wallet wince...

If your method works, stick to it, eh?

Regards,

Tom

Try a "firm push" instead of a jab, holding the match at a slight angle, just as you would if you were pulling it across the striker.

The idea is to align the energy or force of the motion along the length of the stick to take advantage of the natural structure of wood fibers. The traditional "pull" or drag method places the force midway along the stick with your finger acting as the fulcrum. Placing your finger tip near the head moves the fulcrum near the end where it's harder to break the wood fibers.

In Ray Mears' book 'Bushcraft', he mentioned these and says that some ultralights even use them to brew drinks on the trail.

Judging by the responses from my initial post, I'll probably forgo buying matches. If the intelligent and capable people frequenting this forum struggle with these matches, it doesn't leave much hope for " The 12 y/o child or asphalt pounder ".
Building redundancy into any system is good but if it doesn't work properly and consistantly when you need it, its simply excess baggage. IMHO :-)
Thats my 0.2cents!
joblot

I would not be so quick to write off matches for just the reason that Chris points too. A 12yr old or asphalt pounder knows what they are and can make them work. The lifeboat matches are a bit tricky, but decent strike-anywheres (not sure if you have those in Scotland), work well.

Carrying redundant firestarting methods is important in my view. A disposable butane lighter, Strike-Anywhere matches coated in finger nail polish or wax in a matchsafe, LifeBoats, and a Fire Steel all are excellent choices. Best bet is to find what works well for you and carry different modes.

I carry matches but they are my second or third choice for use. I carry them for exactly the reason Chris stated.....everyone knows what they are. A firesteel has its own tricks, and I cannot expect someone to know those tricks but I can reasonably expect a novice to know about a lighter or the Strike-Anywheres.


My keychain firekits (firesteels and cotton/vaseline tinder containers)


Matchsafes

Here is another image of a few EDC items for me. Matches are not coated with wax in this case but normally I do that. Fingernail polish is a bit easier, and also works. The matchsafe is important and also includes a needle with some strong thread wound around it for repairs.



This stuff plus the keychain with BSA firesteel are in my pockets, the larger Swedish Firesteel and clik-clak tin of vaseline/cotton and Maya wood are in my vest along with a Zippo that I have wrapped in 4 layers of Saran wrap to minimize evaporation. I refill the Zippo one a month. Even if all its fuel evaporates it is a sparker with cotton tinder. I frequently carry a pen shaped butane lighter along side my pens. This gives me plenty of options.

Matchsafe-either K&M or Silva with SA's
Knife-Small Sebenza
Notebook-Moleskine with needle in binding and thread in pocket, along with my reference list of information like emergency numbers, bus routes, Willies cheatsheat etc
Bandana-Bandana
Light-Inova X5
Pen-Pelikan

What kind of camera are you using? That picture of the match safes was great! <img src="images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I have no problem striking the Coughlan's matches normally.

The Storm / Nato matches require more patience.... <img src="images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />