Northern Tool and Equipment sells the Ansell Pro Grade Cut Resistant Glove. It is NOT a true cut proof glove like one uses in a butcher shop or glass cutting facility, but darn good anyway. I have several pair, I really do like them for three reasons: Dexterity, Protection, and Price.

Thanks for bringing this up, I now remember I need to pick up a few more pairs as replacements for some that accidentally took a bath in diesel. Kinda smelly, and all that.

When working in that environment, along with the gloves, you want sturdy, puncture proof footwear as well - good boots.

Don't know if you can find them at a surplus store, probably on line -

The gloves used to work with concertina wire. Essentially heavy heavy leather gloves with large metal staples in the palms. I mean heavy, an effort to bend your fingers, but I never got pricked using them.

Let me see what I can find online.

I would suggest Hatch gloves. Look into military/police dealers-they will have those types of gloves.

Better than the Kevlar knit gloves are the Nitrile coated Kevlar gloves:

Best Nitri-Flex Coated Kevlar Gloves

Everyone should note that Kevlar knit gloves, while they may be slash resistant, offer little to no puncture protection.

Adding the Nitrile coating does improve the protection in general.

For real puncture protection, you need a super tight weave (or other approaches) like the Turtleskin material:

Turtleskin FullCoverage Gloves

Beware though, while the Turtleskin stuff is impressive, they are also quite stiff, despite being very thin and light.

I keep both types of gloves in my EDC pack, and with the FullCoverage gloves -- two sizes. One that fits snugly to be worn alone, and one larger size that I can wear a Kevlar knit liner under for padding since the FullCoverage gloves offer no padding.

Re: the FullCoverage gloves sizing, I wear a size 9, and the FC glove in "M" fits snugly, so mine are "M" and "L".

Random thought -- consider heat resistance. While there are a number of materials that offer protection, and some great high tech materials, some melt, which is why I like Kevlar, Turtleskin (basically very tightly woven Kevlar) and leather. IIRC, Nitrile has a higher melting point than some of the other materials used for "rubber" coating items, which is why I choose the Nitrile coated Kevlar over other options. Nitrile also has good chemical resistant properties.

Another random comment is I've found that Geier leather gloves fit me much better than most and I've been able to find them in my local feed store. Their pile lined ones work great in the winter as well. The black ones will pass as dress gloves but offer protection and fit well.

They fit so well that I find I lose very little dexterity, although they are not so thick as to offer a huge amount of protection, either.

I tend to waterpoof mine by dipping in Nikwax Aqueous Wax, dabbing off the excess and allowing to dry.

-john

Leather work gloves can be had for $1 a pair or so.

They offer very good protection from the hazards the OP mentioned.

FWIW, industrial safety companies tend to have a wide assortment of cut resistant gloves.

I've also found it useful, perhaps not from the puncture perspective, to put a (heavier duty) Nitrile glove over say, a Kevlar knit liner, and you have an instant waterproof glove with a bit of insulation.

-john

Living in the blackberry capitol of the world, I'd go for good leather work gloves. I like the ones with double leather on the palm and index finger. I was just burning some downed winter brush and clearing some blackberries yesterday, and leather is the only glove that offers protection. The blackberries stickers go right through the nitrile.

Yes, it is important to distinguish between puncture resistance and other sorts of protection.

The Nitrile coated gloves, while offering better protection than their non coated versions, are not going to make up for the lack of puncture protection of a knit glove.

-john

Good thick leather gloves will take alot of abuse if of good quality. How about masons gloves?