1993; is a long time ago. Way outdated material.

Yes, time does fly. Please cite a more recent source.


Most climbers these days use a simple overhand knot. Yes a simple overhand knot with no back up just plenty of tail.
If you are rappelling one rope length it may not matter but if you have ever done multiple rappels down a cliff you know that any "mess" of extra knots is a surefire way to get them stuck when you pull them.

With multiple rappels, route selection and choice of rappel station, as well as the procedure in keeping the ropes separated, together with careful attention to the haul down has kept things running smoothly. Size of the knot has not been a big deal. Long tails can create problems all their own - the point where the tail joins the knot can catch all kinds of weird things. A relatively short tail helps a bit. In climbing applications, I back up every knot I tie, no exceptions.




An overhand with a lot of tail will not come undone accidentally, you will have no trouble untying it and it is less likely to get stuck in a crack, tree etc.





As for rescue thing may vary but in an alpine environment the overhand is favored.