Chains mean you don't need to go faster than around 30mph. I saw a Suburban that threw a chain at 70mph. The tow truck driver said it was totaled (bent frame) I doubt that that was true, but there was at least one panel to replace.

Sue,

Chains only go on the rear wheels of a Suburban (at least from the 07 manual). Those are the primary drive wheels and have sufficient clearance for the chains. Putting chains on the front wheels would be hard on the drive system, could damage the steering and could result in loss of control due to too little traction on the primary drive wheels.

Add some weight to the rear of the vehicle and make sure the chains fit well before you need them. Stay below 30 mph when using chains and don't run them on cleared (no snow/ice) roads, it is hard on the vehicle and can quickly lead to chain failures.

If you have studded snow tires and 4WD you really shouldn't need chains unless you are going through some really, really serious snow and ice. Go slow, plan ahead, and drive where your tires can get some traction. The biggest challenge I recall from driving in W. Washington after a snow or ice storm was all those cars stuck all over the place.

- Eric

Hey Sue, That suberban will get you most places you DONT want to be in a bad snow storm. If you have to use chains (hopefully to get somewhere safe and warm) then I would put them on the front wheels and if possible all 4 wheels.

This is just me. I have been playing in the snow in Colorado and Wyoming all my life so I do qualify as a person that has been there and done that. I put them on the front because that is 1) where all your steering and breaking is done. 2) the most weight is over your front tires and you will be able to let the chains cut into the snow not just spin in it. 3) I dont know if anyone as tried to push a shoping cart in snow or slush, but it is much easier to pull it. The same theory applies to your vehicle. It is much more efficiant to pull the weight then push it. That would also explain all the front wheel drive cars now.

A lot of good advise was given on this post and one thing said was dont go over 30 mph and dont drive it on cleared roads. Unless you have a lot of experience with chains, you should have someone show you how to properly put chains on and then practice it once or twice. It is a lot different in a snow storm when you are already half stuck, it is dark and it is cold. Also this will assure you that they will fit. Just because someone says they will fit, doesnt mean they will.

Like I said, use chains to get out of trouble not to get deeper into it. Just as important as the chains is the shovel to dig out around the tires to get the chains on.

Chains are a tool, just like anything else, if you use it wrong you can cause damage.

Dont be afraid of chains.

This isn't true, espically on a vehicle like a suburban. You have the rear springs, axle, drive shaft, gas tank, etc all in the rear, transmission and transfer case in the middle and up front is an aluminum cased axle, engine, etc. The weitgh is pretty evenly spread out, CG is pretty well centered.

If you know you're going to need the chains, put them on before it gets ugly out--and shut the motor off, so you're not breathing exhaust while you're struggling to hook that last @##%$%$#^^^ hook.;-)

Read your vehicle's owner's manual. It should address the proper way to safely use chains on your tires.

I would think chains on the front could hit the wheel well during tight steering. Be careful!!

Thanks for all the input! I will drag the owner's manual out.

I hope I don't have to go anywhere that requires chains, for sure. But some of this job is on unpaved, unmaintained, and steep roads. Railroads apparently aren't known for 'wasting' money on maintenance of the trails to access their tracks and switches.

And rest assured that I go slow in snow and ice.

Sue

Good luck, Susan.

Uncle Goo had great advice in going ahead and practicing putting the chains on.

IMO, most vehicle manufactures are pretty conservative when it comes to chains. They will often just say don't use them instead of telling you the pros and cons and letting you make an informed decision.

Personally, I feel you should chain all four since you not only want traction, but also want to be able to steer effectively. I've been on a number of roads where vehicles without chains starting sliding sideways, and where people who were only chained in one end starting having the unchained end pivot around the chained end.

But.. You need to get a feel for how the chains apply to your specific vehicle.

For example, on our Jeep GC, there was plenty of space on the front wheels, but the rear had very little clearance between the tire and the rear shock. So obviously you were at risk to tear up the shock. In this case, I made sure we used a lightweight chain that fit well, and took care to go slow and make sure the chains didn't loosen up.

As suggested above, make sure they fit before you need them. I've found even chains marked for a given tire size may sometimes not fit correctly.

The upside is a (true) 4x4 (or good AWD) with all four tires chained can move effectively in some pretty impressive stuff. Of course you start to get in trouble when the snow is any significant depth over your ground clearance.

Good luck!

-john

The larger the links, the better traction too, especially in
deep snow, sand and mud. Cable chains won't dig you out of the
deep when large link chains will.
(They are easier to install however, and work well for icy highways
and low fender clearance.)