Updated List: I’ve added some brand and model information to some of the items.

PLB and Sat phone w/ 3 batteries (split between riders) (ACR Aquafix, Iridium 9555; borrowing plb from brother in-law otherwise I’d purchase the SARlink)
current paper trail map and compass. (will obtain from outfitter/local club)
GPS with trail map (Garmin 400t with trail maps of area)
MSR Dragon fly stove and two 20 oz bottles of white fuel.
stormproof matches (REI)
strike anywhere matches stored in a water proof case.
flint, steel, dryer lint, magnesium chips, permalog type emergency tinder balls.
pocket knife (Kershaw ATS 34 model 1341
aircraft duct tape and foil tape
stow able shovel (Avitech t3)
15' tow strap
signal laser (red) (AixiZ Laser – 650nm 200mw w/ a 3x focusable spot lens, and cross and line lens 90 degree fan spread – very easy to hit a target!)
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multi-tool (Leatherman Supertool 200)
60ft nylon rope
energy bars, peanut butter, jerky and cheese
LED flashlight and headlamp (Maglite 3xAA)
toilet paper
tarp for wind break, roof shelter.
whistle
10 ft tubing for siphoning gas.
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Hotronics M4 foot warmers (these are wicked awesome - forgot to mention these previously).
Chemical heat packs (hand and feet)
PFAK
folding saw
Tang/Jello mix (warming drink or snow marking)
safety pins
sewing kit
ziploc bags
zip ties
TP pack
water purification tablets
ixed blade and sheath (Cold Steel Recon Scout)
FAK
aluminum foil
garbage bag
Sam splint.
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Spare pair of gloves (medium weight to reduce space in pack - can be used on sled in a pinch.)
Sled handlebar gauntlets (hand protection from wind)

Interested in a recommendation for a folding or wire saw. I was reading online a wire saw can be used to reach limbs in hard to reach places like above ground by adding some rope and thrown over the limb. Which type of saw is more practical?

Sorry CC. Check out what Doug Ritter says about saws here:

http://www.equipped.org/devices24.htm#ToothedSharps

Wire saws are useful if space is a consideration like in a pocket sized survival kit. Like Doug says, get a good one from a reputable source (read the article carefully). For your pack and for the use you mention use the linked type Doug mentions like the Pocket Chainsaw from Supreme Products Or the Saber Cut from Ultimate Survival. Again be sure you are getting one of the good ones as there are cheap copies of these out now that use similar woords in their names and descriptions. A folding saw like the Buck brand folding saw (brightly colored handles available) or Gerber (no affiliations, just good tools) are also good alternatives. There are also a number of Bow saws that break down for easy carry (one is called the saw-vivor I think). I am not familiar with these and am not sure which is better. Maybe someone else can chime in on this. just looked back at Doug's article and the sawvivor is what he recommends. Again read Doug's article carefully. Good Luck. nice updated list by the way.

I received my Recon Scout on Tuesday. I'm no knife expert but wow it is a beefy chunk of metal. Very nice lines and a good well balanced feel. The sheath is very cool; really like the way the blade 'clicks" in.

I picked up 2" webbing and carabiners from REI. Much lighter then the standard yellow "vehicle tow strap" stuff and the carabiners make attachment simple and safe. For snow shovel I went with the Avitech T3. An hatchet/axe is just plain dangerous IMHO.

Cold Steel is most well known for the excellent balance of their blades. Their SRK is highly spoken of in knife circles but for a larger blade it is hard to find any as well balanced as the Recon Scout or the Trailmaster. FWIW and YMMV.

I lived in Northern Minnesota for 10 years, and during that time, I went out on my snowmobile often, in all weather, alone or in small groups of 2 to 4. My weekend trips included Upper Michigan, Northern Wisconsin, and of course Northern Minnesota forests. Each trip averaged over 100 miles. As with rental sleds, my snowmobile equipment compartment was about the size of a shoebox, and unless you have the optional luggage rack, or the optional trailer hitch, most of what you carry has to go in there, or in your pockets. When renting, it is essential to check and see that the OEM toolkit is in the compartment, and that all of the tools are in there. Snowmobile trailer tip over on forest trails at normal touring speeds.

This might constitute heresy, but rather than list the equipment in my PSK, I'll tell you what I actually used in 10 years and 5000 miles of backwoods travel.

Spare headlight bulb (hit a big bump, and they can burn out)
OEM sparkplug wrench
spare sparkplugs (sparkplugs foul often)
spare drive belt
magnetic compass and topo and trail maps
Leatherman Supertool (to remove barbed wire that had wrapped itself around my drive axle)and a million other things
Bic lighter (kept in my inner pocket)
Mini Maglite (also kept warm on my inner belt)
Helmet
Thin nylon balaclava (I got frostbit on my lower chin/neck crossing a frozen lake at -25. I never felt a thing. Balaclava complely eliminates this, and the thin nylon doesn't make your helmet too tight).
Thin cotton gloves (for detail work that you can't wear your snomobile gloves for)
A retractable saw (I used to carry a small hatchet, but they are unsafe on bitter cold days when your hands are cold and ice forms on the handle during use).
Clif bars or equivalent high energy food
instant coffee and tea bags
A metal canteen cup to melt snow for beverages.
Bandana
Whistle
Extra snowmobile key in an inner pocket

All of this will fit in your pockets or in the small compartment under the seat. Have a safe trip.

I would toss out the regular matches and substitute a simple, and cheap mini-Bic. More lights and more power, for dealing with wet fuels, than a similar weight in matches.

I would also add a bus ticket to Florida. Where you can toss the kit into the weeds. Or trade it to a north bound citizen for sunscreen.

I regularly use Bics and other butane lighters these days, but in really cold weather, I still carry regular matches. I know matches will work in extremely cold temperatures - not so sure about Bics. The extra ounce or two is well worth carrying.

Butane doesn't vaporize at low temperatures. But don't let that stop you. Lots of people in extreme low temperatures still use them. Keep the lighter in a pocket, or stuff them into an armpit for a minute if they are coming out of a kit and cold, and they will be plenty warm enough to work well.

You could trust me on this but even better is to go out in cold weather, or the freezer a local restaurant, and give it a try. All the online advice in the world doesn't beat some hands-on experience. Give it a go. Prove it to yourself.

Exactly my point. Matches work at very low temperatures (-40 in my experience and at fairly high (14,000) altitudes), quite reliably. They don't need any special placement or care.

Thinking back, they can present problems. We were forced into what was likely to be a rather frosty bivouac. None of my companions had any fire making materials. All went well, until my matchsafe spilled down the cliff, leaving me holding a single match which of course then became the only means of lighting the fire. Fortunately I pulled it off and we had a decent warming fire during a fairly long night.

I am not one for duplicating items, but I always have about three means of striking a light. Fire is simply too fundamental and useful out in the woods.

After all, if you have a fire, all you need is a pot of water and a tea bag, and you are set.