This summer it occurred to me that I had only a vague idea of how long a bag of my dog's kibble would last. I measure her meals (a bit less than one cup in the morning and the same in the evening) so knew how much she ate each day but the food bag is measured by weight rather than volume.

Can't plan responsibly for her survival if I don't know how long her food supply will last. So when I opened the last bag I marked a calendar.

She eats Wellness Fish & Sweet Potato. 30lb bags.

I now know that a 30 lb bag will feed her for 9 weeks, at her normal rate of consumption. Longer than I expected.

I'm in the habit of buying a new bag when her old bag gets down to half.

Still don't know how much water she consumes, I just keep topping off her water bowls. That's the next research project: starting the day with a gallon jug of water and tracking daily consumption. Will vary greatly, of course, depending on weather and her activity level.

Does everyone here have a handle on how long their pets could survive on the pet food they have on hand?

You could also consult your vet about your dogs diet. I recently had to take our beagle in because he tore his acl. The vet gave us some expensive diet food as he was overweight ($25 for a 10lb bag). She said if he was not getting full enough off of that that we could also give him a can of green beans to supplement. So given that if you asked I would think that there may be other foods that could stretch out your rationing.

The last think I'd want to do in an emergency is change her diet, or in a sustained situation, cut into the human food.

Green beans are a popular means of reducing a dog's weight.

Gidget's accustomed to a dollop of yogurt on her breakfast and occasional pumpkin and chicken. Not to mention her daily Greenie. So she'd be adjusting in a crisis.

Weaning her off Greenies would be her biggest discomfort.

In a sustained crisis, I could well end up dipping into her kibble. Not to my taste but her kibble is a nutritious, high-quality dog food with human-grade ingredients.

Think I'll be adding more pork 'n beans and tuna to the grocery cart this weekend....

I'm rather more concerned about a one or two week situation. With my current practice of buying a new bag of dog food when her current one hits half, she'll be fine for at least a month and possibly three or more.

Dagny, you might also take note of the expiration of one of your new bags of dog food, to get an approximation of how long it CAN last (probably not desirable under normal conditions, but...).

If the expiration date is decent (possibly shorter than the poorer foods available at most grocery stores and WallyWorld), and if you have a place to store it that vermin couldn't get to, maybe you would want to spring for an extra bag, which you would naturally rotate.

Excellent choice of food, BYW. I hear it makes your brown eyes browner.

Re: water... for ease in figuring, you might just plan on storing the same amount for her as you do for yourself. Her water and your water is likely to be the same, so you would probably open a gallon and share it. If you had overestimated her requirements, it could only be to the good for both of you.

For people who use the pet foods that contain a lot of filler foods (corn, wheat, rice, barley, etc), you dog probably requires more of those foods to maintain weight, as those grains are actually chicken feed, not dog foods, and often aren't digested (large, soft stools are one sign). If you plan on storing the cheap foods, they will actually require more space than a more nutrient-dense food will. I would consider it a waste of space, but YMMV.

Sue

Dagny,
You just need a couple of monsters like this. I don't know how many months a medium size bag of food lasts but my best guess is that we have a minimum of about three months worth on hand at any time.

All good points, Susan, as usual. :-)

Her unopened new bag has an expiration date of July 25, 2010.

Better than I expected considering the food does not contain artificial preservatives. Think I will go ahead and pick up another bag -- after checking the expiration date. That would get her to next spring.

Excellent observations on the quality of various dog foods. I've always noted that the higher-end food that goes in the dog's front end, the less comes out the back end.

Here's perhaps the premier source of information on dog food:

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/


Am going to try the gallon water bottle just to get a feel for her consumption. I'm curious. The food fact surprised me, in a good way.

7Point82,

You don't have to worry about looters.

Cute pup! (a puppy, or full grown?)

;-)

Those ankle-biters can be vicious! A meter-reader said she had a mini-Dachsie bite her Achilles tendon. OUCH!

But having to feed only half a dozen kibbles a day can be good!

Sue

She's a pup in the picture but is now an imposing 4 lbs at about 18 months old. Those bags of Eukanuba just last and last and last. lol

I've always had big dogs and got talked into the ankle biters by my DW and DD. She has turned out to be a great little dog. We have her and a male that's a year older and closer to 5 lbs. (They're long haired Chihuahuas.)

A friend of mine has a Chi-Poo, she is fierce!

At the least, they are noisy security alarms.

That alone is worth a liver treat.

Also something to think about is to be sure that you have medical supplies for your pooches. I know your Vet can help you find the right materials and techniques for the puppies.

Just an idea.. and I am sure that I am preaching to the chior

You aren't kidding! I call the male dog "Radar" (think M.A.S.H.) about half the time because he hears so well. No one gets onto the property without him knowing it.

Here's Lucy full grown. (Excuse the quality; the picture is off my phone.)

I did this the same way -- mark the date on a new bag upon opening and then note the date when it empty.

We feed kibbles + canned, but the math for that was easy since each dog gets a can a day (1 can split in half, morning and night).

For us, with two large dogs, that means 30 lbs bag = 20 days, in which time they will need 40 cans of food.

Our approach to this is simply to buy extra food and perform stock rotation.

I tend to shoot for 30 days, so I have 9 cases of canned food in the garage, and three bags of dry food in the house (don't want it to collect moisture) in addition to what is in the pantry.

As soon as we take food from those stockpiles we replace it.

Also as suggested above, I compute the water usage the same way we do for humans.

In terms of first aid, I make sure the normal kits cover the dogs as well. For first aid, I tend to use a decentralized approach, with a fairly full kit in numerous locations which allows a kit to always be close and increases the amount of supplies overall.

-john

What do you include in your first aid kits for the dogs in addition to the human stuff?

Nothing really. I just tried to make sure the kits were comprehensive enough and had adequate supplies.

For example, each kit has one or two trama bandages (4x6), lots of 4x4s or 4x6s, lots of tape -- at least two rolls of medical tape, plus a small roll of duct tape (the mini rolls for hiking).

-john

Good looking dogs. I've had a couple of Rotts and they were simply great dogs. I would LOVE to have another one some day. One of my kids is allergic to just about everything on four legs and it seems like the bigger the critter is the bigger his problems are.

Had that conversation with my vet this summer. Still have to consolidate everything.

Drs. Foster and Smith has quite a bit of pet preparedness info

http://pet-supplies.drsfostersmith.com/search?af=type%3Aproduct&view=grid&w=preparedness&visitorID=&cartcount=0&wishcount=0&subtotal=0.00

Pet owners should also have a health record from their vet. I keep a couple copies in my camping gear and the car because most campground systems stipulate proof of rabies (though I've never been asked to prove it).

In the event of evacuation, even if you find a dog-friendly shelter, you had better be prepared to prove that your dogs are current on their rabies vaccination (or titering).

Whether it's in your First Aid kit or somewhere else, it'd be a good idea to have booties for your pups. At least a couple booties.

In case they injure a paw and to prevent injury to paws.

Can't say my pup is enthusiastic about booties but she's worn them.

Also, a muzzle. If your dog is in pain, you don't want to also deal with them biting you as you try to treat it.

A friend's dog recently broke her leg and chomped on my friend's husband when he went to pick her up.

On First Aid, it's good to have Benadryl for your pet.

One miligram per two pounds of dog is the correct dosage, according to my vet.

I also have anti-itch products and antibiotic ointments. She has a thick coat which will be a problem for her skin if she's damp for an extended period of time.

And obviously if the pup is on some medication (such as insulin) that's something that should be kept in supply.

There are commercial pet First Aid kits. I have a Dog First Aid book in the car.


http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=2125

Thanks. Maggie was a rescue. You've probably heard of embedded collar cases, but Maggie had what looked like a severe embedded harness *and* embedded collar. She was found dragging a chain and pregnant. She has multiple severe scars all the way around her neck, her chest, shoulders, back, etc.

Despite all that she just licked up the shelter people while they were cleaning up her wounds (ouch) and remains a very calm, easygoing dog to this day.

Amazing disposition.

-john

Dogs, and cats, are remarkable for many reasons. Perhaps most of all for their capacity to forgive humanity.

Maggie's now a lucky pup.

:-)

Good point. Luckily, our dogs are well equipped. :-)

WRT getting dogs used to booties, directly after putting the boots on, go do something fun. Play ball, play frisbee, whatever you dog likes.

In most cases, they will quickly forget about the boots.

-john

The American Red Cross has a pet First Aid guide that may be worthwhile:

http://www.redcrossstore.org/Shopper/Product.aspx?UniqueItemId=95


Hurricane Katrina advanced consideration of pets, and their owners, in future emergency situations. Seems we're seeing this in many regards.

The Red Cross also has a guide specific to cats.

The Humane Society has a First Aid guide:

http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/dog_care/your_dogs_first-aid_kit.html

Everyone who shares a home with a dog should have a basic canine first-aid kit on hand. The HSUS recommends including:


* A good pet first-aid book
* Phone numbers:
o Veterinarian
o The nearest emergency veterinary clinic
o A poison-control center or hotline
* Paperwork:
o Proof of rabies vaccination status
o Copies of other important medical records
* Rectal thermometer (your dog's temperature should not rise above 103°F or fall below 100°F)
* Sterile gauze rolls and pads for bandages
* Adhesive tape
* Hydrogen peroxide
* Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl)
* Over-the-counter antibiotic ointment
* Epsom salts
* Tweezers
* Petroleum jelly
* Antiseptic lotion, powder or spray
* A Nylon leash
* A carrier for small dogs
* Cotton balls or swabs
* Splints and tongue depressors
* Towels
* A muzzle or strips of cotton to prevent biting
* Penlight or flashlight
* Scissors
* Needle-nosed pliers
* Ice pack
* Plastic eyedropper or syringe
* Sterile saline solution
* Glucose paste or corn syrup
* Styptic powder or pencil (sold at veterinary hospitals and pet supply stores)
* Latex gloves
* Ear-cleaning solution
* Nail clippers

What I've seen in Rotts has been much the same. Your words sum it up very succinctly.

I would also keep a spare Elizabethan collar handy. They are really useful if your dog gets injured to keep them from making it worse before and after you visit the vet. Normally we get our spares from the vet.

My vet says Benedryl is extremely safe for dogs, and you can overdose by quite a lot before you're pushing it. You can double the dose very safely, from 1mg to 2 mg per pound of body weight.

There is 12.5mg of the active ingredient diphenhydramine per 5ml/cc. You want the straight stuff, no additives. Liquid will be absorbed faster than a tablet.

Get a bottle of the liquid (elixir) and reserve it for the dog, figure out the dose, and write it on the label with a Sharpie. Tape an appropriately sized syringe to the bottle. If your dog is having a serious reaction to an insect sting (breathing problems), you don't want to have to stop and figure it at the time.

You can use it for insect stings (it's NOT effective for any kind of snake bite), airborne allergies like hay fever, and motion sickness in dogs (dogs only for this last), and allergic reactions to vaccinations. It tends to make the dog drowsy (sometimes it's useful just for calming, such as for thunderstorms) and that might last for quite a while, so don't put the dog in a dangerous situation where it could fall off an elevated deck or into water, etc. Keep the pet confined and keep a close eye on it.

Anaphylaxis is a life-threatening allergic reaction and tends to start immediately. Give the elixir immediately, as soon as you notice a problem, or the dog/cat will be fighting for breath so much that they won't swallow it (drooling can indicate they are fighting for air). Empty the contents of the syringe into the pocket formed by the animal's cheek and keep his muzzle just slightly elevated so he will swallow it instead of drooling it out; don't panic and squirt it directly into the back of the dog's throat and get him to choking, and don't hold his muzzle pointing up.

My vet said for just a local reaction (swollen muzzle, etc), give the 1mg/pound of body weight amount. If dog is having trouble breathing, immediately give the double dose. You may also want to put the dog in the car and get started for the vet. Sometimes the Benedryl alone isn't enough, and they have to use cortisone injections to reduce the swelling in the breathing passages.

If your dog has prostate problems, hyperthyroidism or glaucoma, your vet may not want you to use Benedryl. Talk to him/her before you have a problem, and find out what is safe to use.

Sue

Emergency dog muzzle (halfway down the article - drawings): http://www.petfocused.com/articles/pet-health/pet-first-aid/common-pet-injuries.php

There is an Animal Poison Control Center (24 hrs) at (888) 426-4435. You'll need a credit card for the $65 fee.

The human Poison Control Center (24 hrs) is 1-800-222-1222 and is free. I've had to call them three times, and they were perfectly helpful each time. TELL THEM IT IS A PET! Don't say it's a kid or anything, they're okay with pets. Have approximate weight and the info on whatever they got into right at hand.

Sue

That makeshift muzzle is excellent information to have.

Thanks, Susan.

PUMPKIN -- a preparedness item for dogs.

When my pup was having anal gland problems my vet got me to start feeding her canned pumpkin (pure pumpkin, not pumpkin pie filling).

She loves it and it significantly firmed up her stools to help the glands express naturally. Pumpkin is so helpful to dogs that I now always keep at least a couple big cans in the pantry.

Pumpkin alleviates constipation and diarrhea so it's essentially a First-Aid item. It can also help with weight loss if you substitute pumpkin for a portion of your dog's kibble.

Highly recommend throwing a couple cans in your shopping cart next time you're at the grocery. If your pup is not enamored with the pumpkin try mixing it with plain yogurt (also vet-recommended).


http://www.examiner.com/x-2111-Tacoma-Dogs-Examiner~y2009m9d19-Pets-101-Try-some-tasty-pumpkin-in-your-dogs-food

"...pumpkin, a trademark of Fall, is actually an excellent addition to a dog's diet. Canned pumpkin (in its pure form, with no added sugar or spices) is an excellent source of Vitamin A, potassium, and fiber.

"Pumpkin puree can help remedy both constipation and diarrhea, making it a useful tool for dogs with digestive issues. Small amounts go a long way (1-2 teaspoons for small dogs and 1-3 tablespoons for larger breed dogs), and typically, dogs enjoy the taste.

"to cut calories, consider adding some pumpkin puree to the diet as you cut back on the kibble. The added fiber will help fill up your dog without adding unwanted calories."

"If your pup is not enamored with the pumpkin try mixing it with plain yogurt."

HA! If there's something my dog won't eat, I haven't discovered it yet.

Sue