Folks

Can anyone recomend a spray lube for door latches? I have some that need lubricated to move easier.

Thanks tons
Lee

WD40 works, but it's messy.

Dry lubes are available. Some are graphite based, which I worry might transfer to clothing. But I may be wrong.

I have tried pencil lead (HB), but there's too much clay and not enough graphite to really help.

I was given a spray lube by Liquid Wrench which deposits a Teflon coating and the carrying spray then evaporates. To be honest, I haven't used it enough to know if it's worthwhile or not.

If somebody knows what's good, I'd like to hear about it too.

Thanks Dougwalkabout

I do building lockup (church calling) and need a good lube for some latches at the church.

Lee

Break-free. Won't get gummy like wd-40 does, and lubricates much better in my experience. Both break-free and wd-40 are solvents, kinda like kerosene, but break-free also has a teflon based lube. Used to be the army used it for weapons storage/cleaning/lube, but like any oil it attracts dust, so not good in the fine sand. Either may remove paint. You can get break-free pretty much anywhere they sell gun cleaning supplies. You just need a tiny bit. If you just want to clean you can use spray carb cleaner, but that will pretty much take off any paint.

I have had very good results with this product by LPS

DuPont Teflon Multi-Use

This stuff sprays on wet like WD-40, but dries to leave a teflon film. It was recommended to me by my old hardware/lock supplier/locksmith and my automatic garage door opener contractor.

Works great on everything, and does not seem to be harmed by varying temperatures. Of course Northern Ontario has not yet been tested personally.

The normal dry lube for locks is graphite. It can be bought as a powder in a tube. It is usually quite cheap.

It is very messy if you are not careful because it is the same stuff as pencil leads are made from.

You only need to spay a wee tiny bit into the lock set by giving the tube a small squeeze. You don't want to have it making black smudges everywhere.
The reason graphite is used is it does not attract moisture or gritty dust and does not go gummy as it ages.
There is also a version of this that uses molybdenum sulphide instead of graphite. It is a black and messy dust too.
Wear gloves, only use a bit exactly where you need it, clean up any excess and wash your hands so you don't make smudges.

The spray lubes like WD-40 and others work too but they are usually oil and other chemicals in solvent carriers, and the lubrication is usually secondary to what they were designed for.

WD-40 for example was intended to disperse water from the area you spray it. That is what the WD in the name means, water displacement. It displaces water by bonding to surfaces better than the water does. It is great stuff for drying ignition wiring. I know quite a few people who hose the wires under the hood of a car to keep them dry and prevent arcing.
It makes a decent starter spray for diesel motors too.

edit:
I use WD-40 quite a bit mostly because it is a lot less messy than spilled graphite.

+1 teflon sprays.

Can't recommend WD-40, the solvent will clean out the lock but the lubricant doesn't last very long and then it turns to varnish. Graphite works but can be messy, personally like the liquid graphite. The graphite is suspended in a solvent, it evaporates all that is left is the graphite. Most of the time i use the teflon based lubricants, tri-flow, break-free, and several of the dry film teflon sprays. Whichever can is closest when i need it.

Since you are doing lock up duty some of the teflon sprays are available in small pocket sized applicator/spray tubes so that you can have it with you when you need it.

If y'all are into home brews you can make a fair WD-40 substitute by combining a gallon of odorless kerosene and a pound of white lithium grease. Mix it up in a five gallon bucket, I mix it with a drill, and you can pour it back into the relabeled kerosene can and you have enough left over to half fill a quart spray bottle.

The result works about as well as WD-40. WD-40 is like a SAK, good for a lot of things but it isn't really excellent in any particular roll. It is a light lubricant, a decent penetrant, and a mild preservative. Made by the gallon it is cheap. Cheap enough to use frequently and liberally. Cheap enough to fill up many spray bottles so you always have it handy.

Then again WD-40 can be bought by the gallon for about $17 so it comes down to how much you value your time.

WD-40, or the equivalent home brew, will work for door latches and hinges. You may have to reapply in a few years but it isn't a big thing. On locks you should use graphite and I usually do but more than once I have used WD-40 because it was handy. And, so far, the locks haven't gummed up or stopped working.

If you want a really good penetrating oil use Kroil. For a preservative oil use Ballistol. Locks, graphite.

Graphite is the go-to choice. I like white grease/lithium grease. It's cheap, around $2. Its white (easy to see where it is) and is a pain to clean off (sticks like a champ) I keep a can in my truck. Since I drive a Ford (it ain't that funny!) it likes to squeak and the locks groan, white grease and no more problem. I hit them about once a year and no problems since. It sucks as a penetrant though. ( I also carry PB Blaster) Works for hitches, jams, anti-seize, and on and on...I used it on my hinges on my doors (house) to quiet squeaks with great success.

It helps to use a rag or cardboard to catch over-spray.

Thanks again guys will be looking tomorrow.

Lee

Just a somewhat useful tip - I use silicone spray on Rubik's Cubes because it doesn't hurt plastic like WD-40 and similar products will.

Ah, but WD-40 softens the glue so you can remove the *&%$#* stickers and solve the puzzle.

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Pfft. They are easy to disassemble and reassemble solved.

Or rotate one piece on a solved one, scramble it, and watch Mr. "I can solve any Rubik's cube in less than a minute" drive himself crazy.

Or peel off all the stickers and call it "The Idiot's Rubik Cube".

Then stare in horror when a friend asks "But how do you know when it's solved?"

In complete seriousness.

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I bought some graphite in solution to lube a door lock that was sticking. I didn't think I put in too much, but it took almost a half hour of "put the key in, work it around, pull it out, wipe off the excess and repeat" before the key would come back out clean. I don't recommend that.

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What's crazy is a lot of the guys who really can solve it in ridiculously fast times - if you pop a piece and reverse it, then scramble it, they can tell just from glancing at it without even trying to solve it.

My fastest time ever is 46.9 seconds and that was surprising even to me. My average is about 55 seconds. I've seen a video of a guy solving one in 17 seconds... with a piece popping out in the middle of the solve. He caught it on the first bounce and just slammed it back in like nothing happened.

Most of the super-fast people with one are thinking many moves ahead also. It's a lot like chess, just a whole lot faster.
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