I've been without power since 7pm last night.

Just cranked up the genny this am to cool down the fridge and freezer. Ice cubes still frozen but things on door are flexy not 100% frozen, and fridge does not feel that cold anymore.

Got a good list of things to updat eand change and will post when real power comes back.

Currently on laptop + 300w inverter/battery combo on my router luckily I use verizon aircard and they have backup power.

Updates soon!

Oh this thread, will be a great learning thread. Good job Todd. Keep us posted.

Just called electric company and no estimated time of power coming back due to wide spread outages, downed trees and damage all over.

Looks like trees threw up all over the place... down limbs, chunks of branches, pine cones ALL OVER, etc.

Wind still gone but raining again. Was able to take the dog for his first run (and poopy) in 2 days.

Going to survey damage once rain stops, and check my buckets in the RV it was leaking pretty bad in a couple spots.

Gonna make my extension cord for the generator-->well in case power stays out so we can take showers.
Getting ready to turn off genny for fridge now.

I`ll be back later laptop charged, and battery backups will run it a long long time too.

It was quite the storm, even for us lowlanders. Many downed trees, tree branches, and very large roadway water puddles where the storm drains could not cope.

Was this storm the entire west coast or just local?

Not sure if it was ENTIRE west coast but I know the bay area to northern CA was hit. And by west coast realize that I`m only about 1hr or less from the NV border so I`m not coastal.

Power still out.
More updates coming soon.

Very little rain made it down to San Diego (whats new) but it looks like it stayed north of the San Bernadio Mts. up in riverside county.

How long should the avg fridge / freezer (top and bottom) last before needing to get cooled again?
Outside unit temp approx 65*F.

Still no power.

Ice cream is melting.

Generator now decides it doesn't want to run.
It ran all summer every time I test ran it for 30min almost every time 1st pull start too.

Gen going to set then I try again.

If no luck I`ll re-route power and use RV genset.

Weeeeeeeeeee!

Ice Cream never melts here when the power dies. I just have an upset tummy for a day or so.

Electric company updated messages.

Be prepared for an extended power outage.
What is extended 1 day 10 days?
They should just say we don't know!

<< "How long should the avg fridge / freezer (top and bottom) last before needing to get cooled again?" >>

In my experience, 6 hours is the best you can get. After that, you should view highly perishable items with a skeptical eye.

When you get power again, fill every nook and cranny with water jugs. Cover the exterior with a blanket when the power is off.


<< "Ice Cream never melts here when the power dies." >>

Correct. The calories don't count either. It's an emergency.

Calories quit counting a long time ago I am afraid.

So generator working again... air filter was SOAKED and dripping fuel...

I have not been workin gon it this entire time either was working on RV genset which decided it wnats to non-stop surge.

Prepared couple months ago for winter and got genny parts so I had a spare filter and it worked like a charm.

Fridge is running first time since 9:45! Was trying to run it around 2.

Hope it cools down enough.

I don't let mine go more than 4-5 hours. At 4 hours, I'm rigging then generator, then go 4 on 4 off if I can't keep it on the generator continually. I keep the freezer spare space filled with those packs of waterless ice, and swap them in and out as space is needed on a day to day basis. That way, when the power goes out, we have some extra time.

Don't know about the blanket trick; never tried it, but even more important is keeping the door CLOSED. When you open the door (freezer or fridge), all the cold air drops out: it is heavier then the warm air in the room, which rushes in to replace the cold air. The new warm air now warms everything as it cools down.

Also we have a 2nd generator for back up. They tend to fail when you need them.

A local supermarket now carries dry ice on a continuing basis, so this is another option.

Did I mention we frequently lose power?

Good info thanks!

Generator output at wrong frequency... around 52hz and voltage around 109. Not good for electronics.

Adjusted in the dark to 63hz and 125v unloaded, seems to be it will work for computers and other electronics but when the fridge or other large item is started it DROPS severely. I`m not sure if htis temp dip will harm things or not.. advice?

Researched more, computers have new power supplies (ANTEC are the ones I like) that can accept 47 to 62hz and 100 to 240v!!

Wahoo!

Now they are like laptop PSU and can easily handle generators.

Time to check my monitors next

Power just came back on as I was reading about the new PSU.
My existing one is 50 or 60hz.

I've been wanting a new computer with i7 processor looks like a new PSU will be needed.

Complete report tomorrow after I catch-up on work bills, etc.

I learned a TON!!

-Todd

- Do not leave extension cords out to get rained or snowed on they are no fun to clean up when it's raining, cold and your hands are wet through the gloves.

- Do not store generator supplies all the way across the yard from the generator walking through 40mph wind and rain is no fun, and snow probably wouldn't be fun either.

- Do not keep spare gas far from genny (see above).

- Always bring paper towels with you in your pocket when working on something in the rain, snow, wind you will need them for something.

- Always carry a leathermen. (See above reasons why walking around sucks.)

- If you plan to use a generator have "inside only" extension cords so that your entire house does not get covered in garage nasties or outside mud and muck.

- Have your generator "power strip" ready and not in the basement requiring you to look through the dark basement with a flash light.

- Expect to get the floor dirty if you are constnatly going in and out working on something in a storm. Remove shoes when you get in the house. We use the indoor/outdoor entry rugs from Home Depot they are GREAT at catching dirt before it goes too far.

- Newer style power supplies (and most laptops) work just fine on a generator as do monitors.

- Putting anything on a fridge circuit is a BAD BAD idea due to the fridge requiring lots of power at start-up causing SEVERE voltage and frequency spikes on that circuit.

- Duracell jumper, 600w inverter, radio, light, 12v charger combo is awesome! It ran my router for nearly the whole 24 hours we had no power, re-charged my cell phone, and showed no usage. (Which was expected the router <6w) But it worked, and it had been setting for 2 months or so since I got it and charged it.

- Get a duracell all in one 600w instead of another PC UPS system as it serves MANY MORE purposes and cost the same amount of money and will probably run the computer longer too.

- Tripp Lite 600w line conditioners are NOT as sensitive as the 1200w model. Spend $25 more and get the 1200w model to correct voltage that the 600w does NOT. (Note that neither correct frequency.)

- APC UPS units do NOT like generator power for some reason, even through the tripp lite they were not accepting power. This is important if you think you can charge them while running your fridge and want to utilize the extra power so you can use something later from it. (I am going to test more of this tomorrow because these things are just good to save and shut down then )

- My RV generator (ONAN) has a severe surging problem. However, it can run the AC, 1000w halogon work lights, the microwave and a 1200 watt fan w/out blowing any fuses.. oh and then it surges in 10 seconds!! Grr I need to get this baby fixed, 1800rpm gas generator will last a life time and is a huge asset.

- A transfer switch is only $249 and CAN be hard wired to a generator plug someplace else via a 220v line. This is for an 8 outlet manual model.

- Running sensitive electronics like computers or TVs on the same generator as your fridge, well, microwave, or other high-draw appliance is probably a BAD idea unless your generator is over sized by a good % to accommodate this. IE: Your gen is 10kW but idles at 2.5kW that will help absorb the start/stop and peaks a lot better than one that maxes out at 5kW and idles at 1kW. The more the motor has to work to make power the harder its going to be on the appliances and the spikes it seems.

- If I did not work from the PC the only important things to run the generator for are the fridge, and getting well water (to shower). Obviously it would be nice to use the microwave but I did everything on our gas stove I could have done in the microwave. Other than hair dryer, mini-oven, microwave, dryer, and other appliances rarely used the lights are really the only other thing that need to run on the generator.

- Transfer switch + 6-8kW generator will run my whole house and well just not together. (including all electronics).

- I`ll probably get a new Honda Inverter generator to run my office since I work from home and being able to "work" is pretty important. (They can also be used for camping! Or if I wanted I can run them for the fridge at a later time.)

- Running extension cords through your house is no fun.

- Pulling out the fridge to get to the cord is no fun.

- $250 transfer switch will save a lot of head aches, and time. And if I have 2x220v in my pumphouse/gen room I can wire it up in NO TIME!

- The wrong frequency can cause your equipment to over heat, fry, and catch fire..

- A multi-meter is priceless tool when using the generators.

- Tarp Covered Car Ports do not like 40mph even when anchored with rope multiple times to heavy objects inside. I lost a leg, it was metal and it ripped off. The whole thing was shaking and moving side to side violently even though it was tied down extremely well inside with rope. Exterior anchors are probably a must but make it pretty useless already having tons of rope IN IT.

- Aluminum carport is in my future for storing stuff outside.

Don't worry, it's Okay with modern laptops (after approx. 2003). In worst case (high voltage spike when the fridge motor shuts off) only the power supply brick may be damaged.

I see you're also running desktops? Instead of a new PSU it's better to invest into a good UPS unit with large capacity battery. APC has SmartUPS series which provides pure sine wave output your PC's are expecting.

A lot of great info, though! Thanks for sharing!

Correct.

My laptop converter can handle it just fine.

My desktop and monitors not too sure.

The Honda EU2000iA should produce enough power for a refrigerator or even a microwave, and a clean enough sine wave for anything.

I'm updating my power outage list based on your post. Lots of good ideas. Which inverter did you use, or is it built into the craftsman unit?

As far as power quality goes, an LCD monitor and desktop computer should be fine, worst case you'll take out the supply, but I doubt even that as they're probably 50-60Hz. They're both switching power supplies, which mean they convert the AC to DC, and then have a DC to DC converter to take that to the low voltages for the electronics.

My worry would be the electronics in appliances, and motors. I don't think motors like running on the wrong voltage or frequency.

Some APC ups's let you adjust the sensitivity for switching, not sure if the smaller ones do. I've always liked them because the build quality used to be a lot better than trip-lite, but I've never tried to run either from a small generator. They work fine from a big (250kva+) standby generator, but that thing puts out pretty much line quality power.

Oh, and give yourself a gold star for having two generators, too. Good planning.

Duracell DPP-600HD Powerpack 600 Jump Starter & Emergency Power Source with Radio - $136.57 is what we have in the wifes car and was used to charge my cell, and the router. High quality in my opinion, built good and very multi-use

I am putting together an extra light ($9.99 wal-mart that I've had) that will have LED bulbs, and be a basic back-up so I can run it off the UPS or the Duracell pack... saves a lot of $ on lanterns, and lantern batteries.

For going to the bathroom or walking around we have head lamps and in the kitchen we have these LED PODS from costco that go under the counter and illuminate very well! They are multi-option as far as settings and I got them on sale 3 for $15 w/batteries well worth the money!

As noted my UPS would not accept the generator power at all... it wouldn't convert.

And while I agree a good UPS is key if I`m w/out power for more than a day I need to get online to work so I need a good genny and power supply too

I've started a new PC Wishlist @ NewEgg surprisingly this PC has lasted me since 2007.

Todd.

Since this is so fresh for you and it seems your researching options, can you write out a list for us. A realistic list of what you would like to have for next time regarding power options, if someone (like me) was to start from scratch to genny the necessary items around the house. What to buy, inverters, etc. etc.

Thanks if you decide to do this.

Funny you mention that.
I've had that on my "Blog List" for about a month now!

I`ll get a very good article or two up from my experience and suggestions.

Thanks for encouragement.

Yeah, a list would be great. Just looking around I saw that Brunton has an upgrade of their Solo battery pack coming out in Feb. Looks nice.

http://www.brunton.com/product.php?id=637

I've been looking at the Fit-PC2 computer as a solution for a general purpose solar computer with perhaps with a 128GB SSD. It has a claimed maximum power of around 8W but is still powerful enough to run WinXP and full 1080i video. If a new monitor is required then I would look into the latest LED backed LCD monitors such as the LG W2486L with a claimed Power requirement of 28W (I am currently using an LG M227WD, which has an inbuilt Digital TV/Radio decoder running at around 33W). Total computer power would be less than 38W, which could easily be run from a 60W Solar Panel, Charge Controller and Powerpack such as the Duracell DPP-600HD (I use a slighly larger Powering Professional Powerpack RPP210, to currently power my Solar Powered Hi-Fi setup).

Off Grid Internet Broadband would just be a matter of having a 3G USB dongle/Air card capable Router or plugging the 3G USB card into the Fit-PC2. Other USB devices such as ATSC Digital TV tuners or even satellite based Digital USB devices and USB based storage such as the WD passport hard drives can also be added. Even USB compatible SW radios can be added for worldwide SW coverage.

A capable high performance entertainment/Digital TV/Digial Radio/communications system can all be powered from a single 60W Solar PV panel etc.

For emergency lighting I have a number of free standing uplighting floor lamps using high performance LED based E27 bulbs which can easily light a medium sized room. More powerful versions are also available. Again these lights can be moved anywhere in the house and powered using the auto car Powerpacks. The advantage of these LED based bulbs over the cheaper low energy fluorescent bulbs is that they accept a much wider range of input power voltages and frequencies and they provide full illumination from the instant they are turned on.

Reducing the power requirement and increasing efficiency of the load also reduces the cost of providing electrical power generation i.e. more cost effective smaller and more fuel efficient electrical power generators.

I totally forgot about those monitors.
Great for my 2nd My primary is the 30" Dell, and I can't give that up L O L!!

Those bulbs are nice but WOW $$ reminds me of the LED I got from box store for kitchen $8/each for basic LED bulbs!

Good info!! Thanks for sharing.

To save even more power during a grid outage I've have also discovered that my electronic picture frame, a Toshiba Gigaframe L80 can also be used a computer display via its USB port (drivers need to be installed on the PC though), which effectivily gives an 8.4 inch 800 x 600 SVGA display which, I measured running at 3W when I turned the backlight down to a medium setting.

With the Fit-PC2 running at 7W and the monitor running at 3W, it is entirely possible to rig up a internet web browsing fully functioning PC running from of bank of 8 rechargable NiMH D cells for around 8 hrs.

While awesome I don't imagine much work could be done Hehehe.