I have been a bad boy and need help .

I have accumulated many chargers for numerous rechargeable devices, flashlights, etc. I tried keeping the device and charger together, I even managed to label a few, but somehow (those awful gremlins at work ) the vast majority of chargers are now in a big pile . Only a couple of them have the company imprinted, so the for most part I have no idea what charger belongs to what device .

So, do I have to match the output voltage exactly with the input voltage of the device? Can I use a lower output charger with a higher input device, if the plug matches? Can I simply match up the plugs that fit?

Pete

Watch out for polarity. Use the same voltage. If an adapter provides the same voltage as the device but is capable to deliver more amps, then that's not a problem.

Same voltage lower amps could be a problem.

Voltage higher than the device is definatly a nogo.

Yep. And so does the polarity and the amperage as well. Most devices have the centre pin as the positive but if you connect a positive centre pin power supply to a negative pin on the device then you will most likely get a fizzle then a bang. Don't assume that an additional couple of volts either way doesn't matter either. It most likely will.

Most rechargeable devices have the Voltage and polarity marked beside the connector. The power supply will have the output voltage and amperage and polarity marked (the centre circle will indicate either a + or - symbol) as well.

The solution is to get a set of carboard boxes and give each box a voltage such as 3V, 5V or 12V etc and the centre pin polarity i.e. + in red marker pen and - in black marker pen, then go though each power supply one by one. Once separated out it should be a lot easier to determine which power supply matches up with the correct device by the size of the pin connector and the amperage rating.

You are not alone. Those AC/DC power adapters are a nightmare.

A while back I started using the silver Sharpie pens to mark the AC/DC power adapters with the name/model of the item it 'belongs' to.

"Yep, those durn wall warts are a-spreadin' like varmints."

I have 30+ ??, I guess. I started using a Sharpie too (especially for any that had odd connectors or were for sensitive computer-type electronic devices like PDAs). Or, I take a stick-on label, fold it over the wire near the barrel connector, and write the specs and device on it. I have hundreds of stickies left from diskettes (remember those?).

But for things like rechargeable lights etc., I use a carbide-tipped engraver (shaped like a Bic pen) and scratch the required volts and current ON THE DEVICE TO BE CHARGED. Scribe it right into the plastic, next to the connector. Any charger with specs that are appropriate will work. And the barrel connectors are very often the same size.

As to polarity: it's been a great many years (15+) since I saw any power supply that wasn't centre positive, outer negative. The last in my experience was a Korg Poly800 analog synthesizer that I had for a long, long time (welcome to the '80s, dude, and rock on!). I snipped and stripped the wires on a compatible adapter, slid on two layers of heat-shrink tubing, applied a dollop of solder, confirmed polarity with a multimeter, Bic'd the tubing, and attached a big sticky: "reversed polarity, do not use, except for korg poly 800."

This whole business is why I travel with a cheap multimeter and a high-watt-rated rheostat. I can create any charger I need out of the raw material in the junk drawer of any house in North America.

If you are not really sure if the charger belongs to the device you may want to measure the voltage. Chargers without voltage regulation may have considerably higher voltage than rated on the charger. The voltage drops as you draw current. If the device is not designed for that it may be damaged.

I use a P-Touch label maker for all those peripherals. At the dive shop yesterday I came upon a small bottle of 'diving paint' with a pen type applicator so that you could label your metal, slate, rubber, plastic parts with your ID it wouldn't come off after prolonged submersion.

Although a bit 'bulkier' than the sharpie, I use the 'hospital' ID/allergy bracelets. I write the info on the band and then attach it to the wire. I fold the band back on itself where the plastic clip locks in place and that is where I secure the wire (inside the small loop of plastic). It still allows the wire to move without difficulty and it doesn't wear off.

Another answer is to get one of the chargers with adjustable voltage and a selection of tips.
The one I have has a slide switch for voltage, a mess of tips all on the end of the wire and a polarity switch. The other one has a rotary switch for voltage and a collection of tips in a small attached case. The tips attach to the wire by plugging into a little plug on the wire. Which way you put them into the plug decides the polarity.
I bought them a few years ago from an electronics or hardware store but don't remember which one.
The two I have get used for almost everything that needs to be plugged in except for computer gear.

Computer peripherals (modems, printers, external drives, etc) seem to be more fussy about how clean and steady their power supply adapters are. Often they are regulated power supplies with filtering to eliminate any current ripple or stray electronic frequencies. However since they seldom get unplugged or moved much the supplies tend to stay with the equipment more.

My answer to tagging wires is good old masking tape. If you peel a strip of tape off, lay the wire across it at about the middle of the tape then stick the two halves of the tape together it makes a nice easy tag to write on. It seems to last pretty well too.

+1. I have started putting a label on each end of the wart/wire to save time when dealing with the mess surrounding my computer desk.