OK Razor's Edge was mentioned in the last sharpening post, but this is kind of a different question, So I thought it merited a second place, Mods, if you want to combine, sorry for the presumption.

There seems to be many schools of sharpening, but one I hear of often, and Razor's Edge seems typical, is of this 'wire edge' and the need to break it down. The idea seems to me to be, sharpen at a steep 10-12 degree angle, and create a very thin edge, and then strop it to 'break the wire' and create the point.

I always was taught to do the opposite, sharpen first to a chisel, 20-25, then carefully with a finer stone sharp 5 degs less, 20-15, using a light tough, hoping for a pyramid on a pyramid, for edge hold. Am I nuts?

I never use a strop, just a stone, and don't want another bit of gear cluttering up my kit, but hope I haven't been doing it wrong this whole time. Sharpening with a small stone is often I think just holding it in the crook of your forefinger, and feeling it in small circles.

What do you all think? oh, thirteenth post, good luck!

T

You are described two different edges. One we can call a scandinavian. The other is a compound, or secondary edge.
Both have advantages and disadvantages. It depends on the perceived tasks needed. Both will create the fragile 'wire edge' to some degree.

Ah see this is what confused me.

I guess I've always been taught that a wire edge can be avoided in the stone sharpening. Never used a strop. Dad always said, "if you can feel a bead, lean into it a bit.

I guess this means I use a compound edge, which sounds preferable to me, I don't need a razor blade out there, a working knife is fine.

Thanks Chris, you are always on the spot with the info.

If you've managed to cut what needs cutting don't worry.
I've read the guys with micro lapping compounds and using cigarette papers as cutting tests with computer programs to measure cut pressure and my neck hair goes on end.
Here I was using the oh blankety-blank I just cut my thumb off, run to the bathroom for a toilet paper compress test all these years.

All I know is that when I hand my SAK to someone, which I almost never do, but I somehow feel obligated if someone asks "anyone have a knife on them?" happens less and less these days.

I have to say, literally, watch yourself its goshdarn &*&^% sharp, and they still often will slice themselves one. Sigh, why I also carry the FAK.

And I get asked that all time dumb question, why do you keep your knife so sharp? Um.... its a knife?

Things like razor sharp or shaving edge are pretty subjective and open to various interpretations.

A true razor (hollow ground) is sharpened at a very steep angle then finished on a strop, which means super fine polishing. This is the kind of finish and blade profile that ensures superior cutting performance but the edge is not going to be durable enough for cutting anything harder than hair or very soft materials.

It is perfectly possible to sharpen a hunting/utility knife to a shaving edge even at an angle like 20° per side. I can shave with my USMC Kabar if need be and the edge is still plenty sturdy enough for harder work.

A lot of people make the mistake sharpening at a very steep angle when they want better cutting performance in a knife. Usually this leads to something approaching a true razor edge - very thin and fragile and doesn't last long. Instead, keep a relatively strong edge (say, 20° per side) but make absolutely sure that it's ground to a perfect point. When looking at the edge, it should be a crisp V. The sides should come to a straight, perfectly aligned edge. It takes some practice to get it just right so checking the edge under magnification helps.

Once you're done, take a fine stone and put in a small microbevel (like 25° per side) but make sure you maintain the same correct alignment. If done right (and as long as the heat treat is good) there should be no wire left at that stage. For optimal results, you can now strop the edge. Once again being very careful not to ruin the edge alignment as it often happens - stropping is an art and maintaining a consistent angle is not easy.

You will now get a super fine, yet strong edge that will shave hair but remain robust enough that it won't need to be resharpened for a long time. BTW, you can do the same with a convex edge (as opposed to a straight V profile), it's just that it takes a little more patience.

A great and inexpensive book on the subject is Sharpening Made Easy by Steve Bottorff. It descibes several techniques with easy to follow text and simple diagrams. BTW, purchasers of the book are also given a special URL thta leads to a page with additional information that didn't make it into the book when it was initially published.

Next question. What is a good sharpner to keep in a BOB for sharpening in the field. ( light, small, with monkey mode.)

In a BoB I would pack one of those cross carbide draw sharpeners. Good for a quick touch up, reliable, and basic enough a novice can sharpen with it. It won't give the surgical edge of other systems, but it is quick, and it will get a blade sharp enough for any sort of field work. Cost about $3.

I've got a diamond and rouge set of wheels on a grinder motor at home, and it's not possible to get a knife any sharper than you can with that set up. However, it also isn't necessary to have a knife edge worked up that fine, and for field work a $5 stone or a good carbide cross cutter is more than enough to get a desirable edge. I got the wheels because I can polish sharpen a 24" beat-to-hell machete in about 5 minutes. It does what it does with minimal effort and maximum results.

One option would be the Fallkniven DC-3 or 4 diamond sharpener. #4 is slightly bigger, which makes it a bit easier to use IMO but it's still very compact. One side is 600 grit for sharpening and reprofiling and the other side is much finer for polishing. The Fallkniven DC-4 is the only pocket sharpener I've seen so far that can consistently put a truly great edge on any cutting tool. Knives, axes, scissors and everything else with a blade.

There are also a number of compact diamond sharpeners out there, both rods and cards (DMT is probably the best brand out there). They work great but lack the fine polishing capability of the Fallkniven.

Other than that, there are plenty of other choices. Artificial stone, ceramic... All work but some are fragile, some require oil and some don't work too well on super hard modern stainless alloys. Even sandpaper can be used in a pinch but it wears out very quickly.

IME diamond sharpeners are the best choice in the field because they will put an edge on anything, work fast, don't require lubrication, last long... It's just a simple, foolproof method.