Working on my "new to me" house I've come to the floor... it's 80's style parquet, real oak wood.

In some places it looks nice but high traffic areas it's down to only the wood... no seal.

What / how was this parquet originally sealed?

Aside from sanding it ALL, and refinishing it all what can I "rub on" to make it nice(r) again?

We used some 'cleaner with oil' you get at Wal-Mart and it made the nicest parts of the floor nicer but did little to the dull high traffic areas that are only wood.

Suggestions?

I guess I should also say I don't need it to be 'perm'. If I have to 'wash' the floor with this stuff monthly to make it stay looking decent I can handle that.

We plan to replace it all within a year but I'd like it nicer looking than it is now.

Looks like I could just buy some shellac and put a coat on.
I've also now read that some have done that, tung oil, or ONLY polyurethane too.... I`ll investigate those more.

Todd,

I am (woops, was) a custom home builder. We do ton's of wood floors. I suggest trying to contact a wood floor company and pricing a full refinish. These guys have all the equipment to do the job and deal with the mess.

Barring that, try talking to them with regard to what they use. Rent the equipment to sand the entire floor and do it yourself.

There are two things that I see floor finishes affected by...

1 surface prep -
Working in one area of the floor usually causes an uneven finish, or a new finish area that flakes up because it did not bond with the old finish.

2 TRAFFIC WHILE CURING-
Once you finish the area with polyurethane you MUST close the house and keep out until the whole of the floor is dry. Not tacky, but DRY. It will pick up dust from doors being opened and show forever. Finish the floor and get a room for a day or two. Motel 6 will leave the light on for ya'.
Plus that stuff stinks, and really isn't that great for the mind and body.

Good luck

Todd,

I think that the stuff with oil you put on may make anything other than sand/strip/replace feasible.

For a temp fix try using mineral spirits to clean the dull areas and let dry. An application of water based polyurethane should bring back the luster (it's available in flat, satin and glossy sheen). It needs to dry without traffic for a while. It will not last that long and may cause issues with the adjoining areas, assuming they were likely finished with a non-water based version. Shellac may be a good alternative as it is quick drying as well. Will probably need many coats.

+10 on Desperado's suggestion or floor replacement is likely the best permanent fix.

Yes, generally speaking, if you're planning or thing you might end up putting on a permanent finish, DON'T start hitting the bad spots with any kind of wax or oil, or the other stuff probably won't stick, and the difference will show up even more.

Sue

Hardwood flooring is very hard work, I did it for one summer a long time ago. Major refinishing is best left to the pros, as they have the proper machinery to do it. If you're just looking to make a bad finish look a little better, this site has some pretty good info:

http://www.woodfloordoctor.com/

I would 100% be for sanding and refinishing them 100% but we are missing about 2'x10' by the rear slider, and about 1'x3' by the front door. I have looked ALL OVER and all I have been able to find is cheaper, lighter stained parquet Also the kitchen which is attached (great room concept) is linoleum which is also missing a few spots, and needs replaced too.

Thus in ~1year we plan to replace it all.

If this is a true nail down hard wood you may do well at Lumber Liquidators.

Thanks guys!

If you want to match something exactly, then you may very well end up needing to buy unfinished flooring and to finish it yourself. Buy some samples and try different stains, when you re getting ready to do it.