None of the high carbon stainless steels are extremely corrosion resistant. That includes VG-10, ATS-34, BG-42, S30V, etc. If you're dealing with salt water and don't want to have to look after the blade you either have to go for one of the special corrosion resistant alloys or something other than steel and either way you give up sharpness and edge holding to some degree or another. You can't have your cake and eat it too. There are always compromises.

Far be it from me to argue with Doug, but...

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by extremely corrosion resistant, but I have NEVER had a VG-10 knife rust on me. I usually tuff-cloth all my knives, but even if I don't, VG-10 holds up just fine -- at least it has for me. I don't scuba dive or anything, but I live next to a brackish river, and it's usually pretty humid.

Back to the original topic: I'm holding a Schrade Simon, which seems to me to be a better design (especially the edge guard, which may not DO anything, really, but it makes me feel better about carrying the knife). However, the materials are worse. Your call, really, just wanted to present an alternative.

I'm also a big advocate of the Douk Douk, despite it being carbon steel (well, most of them).

There is a fairly recent thread re: the M6 over at www.knifeforums.com in the outdoor survival forum. Somewhere in an ancient post I gave an online site with the manual and mods for the M6. The manual has also been on EBAY recently. I would pass on the .410 flares for one very simple reason. The M6 lacks an extractor. I was considered something of a pyromaniac in the service. I had a helicopter overhead looking for me in a standard pattern. As it swung toward me I fired my entire supply of pen flares PLUS a 'borrowed' Icarus flare. The pilot ( and my former watch commander) asked if I was trying to shoot him down <img src="images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />. Seriously, betting on a small flare that cannot be reloaded rapidly on a fast moving search aircraft is not wise.

JamesA,

>>>> I'm holding a Schrade Simon, which seems to me to be a better design <<
I knew someone would present an alternative that I'd never seen before, doh! That definately looks like a viable contender. I have a Schrade Outback that has been very good to me, especially for the price.

>>>> especially the edge guard, which may not DO anything <<
The Gerber also has a little ridge (hence the name) for a guard that's hard to see in pictures.

>>>> However, the materials are worse <<
That's a consideration, but for around the same price as the Gerber it has the added function of a built-in carabiner clip. Does it have a slim profile?

>>>> I live next to a brackish river <<
I hope you live on a hill, or move out before you watch your refrigerator float through the kitchen window from a canoe(don't ask). <img src="images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Run
ps- the Schrade is made in the US, my Gerber is made in Taiwan <img src="images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Rusting is not the same thing (well it is technically, but that's another matter). Few of these rust in the traditional sense, but all will be affected. Look at the composition of VG-10 and you'll see why it isn't significantly more corrosion resistant than the others, just a wee bit better. The composition elements don't lie. Fact: stick any of these in salt water and they will all give evidence of corrosion to one degree or another, which was the question. It is all a matter of degree.

You'd have to define slim. The pivot screw sticks out quite a bit on either side. I'd estimate it, using the ruler on a Micra, at about 5/16ths, probably 3/16ths of which is the extra added on by the pivot.

>>>> You'd have to define slim. [The Schrade is] ...about 5/16ths <<

The Gerber Ridge Knife is also about 5/16ths (at the hinge pin or at the one hand opening stud), or about 7/16ths if the belt clip is left attached.

A friend read this thread, eyeballed online pictures, likes them both, and can't decide. He asked my opinion, and I couldn't really help without actually "feeling" the Schrade. It looks like a toss-up.

I just remembered that serrations present more edge surface area, which sounds like a good idea for a small knife. I guess I'm still happy with the Gerber. <img src="images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
Run
ps- what's a Douk Douk? LOL

My al mar (vg-10) rusts in my pocket(I sweat alot).
And I believe the link your looking for is here: http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/v-shrake/m6.html
If not, its still neat.

I've had a similar experience- I've had "high-carbon" knives rust from just salt air, with no exposure to liquid at all, and I had a Spyderco Endura that I used to wear clipped to the back of my waistband while jogging (sweat) rust on me... and, of course, innumerable cheap "tackle box" knives have rusted over the years with almost no provocation.

Diving and sailing are realms where a knife is absolutely essential (to my mind, the ban on automatic knives, aside from being just ridiculous, was especially unfair to sailors, who's lives can easily depend on a knife and who rarely have two hands free) and both realms routinely involve highly corrosive environments.

It may be true that everything is a compromise at present, but the compromises are getting better- Beta Titaniums are not bad at taking and holding an edge, are light and very corrosion resistant, some Stellite alloys are very good (but very expensive)... and Liquidmetal seems to have huge potential in the field, being light, strong, corrosion resistant, and having the potential for extremely inexpensive fabrication- it's melting temperature is low enough that knives with edges ready-to-use can be injection molded. Things may be changing in the next few years.

Maybe it's just me, but, especially as I get older, I tend to think there's some correlation between "low maintenance" and "high quality". I hate having to constantly fiddle with and baby equipment, I hate to pay a lot for something and then see that it comes with elaborate "care instructions", and, especially with survival gear, it seems to me that part of it's job is to take care of itself enough to be ready when and if it's needed.

Needless to say, there's apt to be precious little time and opportunity to baby equipment *during* a survival situation. Someone fighting for life on a boat or island is unlikely to be able to take time to rinse, dry and oil a knife to keep it from rusting.

It may be that the knife that's in routine daily use on the water will not tend to rust, as it's easy to keep an eye on, at least... but how many people on this forum are the sort of person that would go to sea with only one knife? <img src="images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Many survival items require regular maintenance. From the generator which needs to be turned over and run a few hours every month and have the gas changed or burned through each year to the medicines and Potable Aqua tablets which will be ineffective past their date. Don't even think about trying to store water indefinately. I once thought that I had sealed up some oats only to find a thriving mouse village upon opening the top. (they had long since opened the bottom!) I wouldn't want to be thrust into a survival situation with tools with which I am unfamiliar. I carry, use, sharpen, clean and oil my leatherman daily. It may not be the strongest blade or the best pliers but I know what it can do and I know how to care for it and I know it is sharp. If any corrosion should develop (hasn't yet) I will see it immediately and it will be cleaned off and re-sharpened before a week is out. If I find myself in a survival situation and I still have my belt I will also have a very sharp leatherman in clean good working order. I may also have my bushman if I was lost while camping or hiking. My PSK does have some Xacto blades and Razor blades which are marginally useful. I think that I could skin a rodent with the curved Xacto blade and I am sure I can make a decent spear with the pointed Xacto blade. I wouldn't want to have to hack my arm off with either but they are stainless, stored with light oil coating in plastic baggie in sealed PSK tin so they should be fairly sharp when needed. (unless the iodine from the PA has come loose and caused bad corrosion.) I check them every 3 months when I am resupplying my PA and Med's.

If I expected my survival knowledge to stay sharp without going outside and practicing it I would probably discover that it corrodes faster than my leatherman. At least monthly take your survival tools outside (including your head) and use them. If they require servicing, updating, refreshing, sharpening, cleaning etc. Then take care of them. If you take care of your tools they will take care of you. Unfortunately, this isn't something like changing the oil in your car that you can pay someone else to do. If you don't know how to use and care for your survival gear there won't be anyone there to help you at any price.