Yes, like I said soap and water will work, and if you are judicious about oiling and heating it ever time after you wash it, you are going to mitigate the soap's effect considerably, maybe even completely. There has been debate about soap or not soap in various cast iron circles (including IDOS) probably forever. The majority still prefer not to soap their pots unless something went wrong and they are starting the seasoning process pretty much over. I have no doubt using soap will work fine for some, and I've tried it in the past without adverse effect, but I don't feel it is necessary and doesn't improve on my process for cleaning CI as it is now. That's my process, YMMV. I am by no means the final authority on the matter. I just came to the same conclusion as the majority of my peers and choose not to use soap.

Typically, I remove what food I can with utensils (not metal ones, unless I intend on a vigorous re-seasoning session). If there is a lot of food residue in the pot, I will put water in it and boil it for a bit. Depending on how stubborn the residue is, I may let it soak for a few minutes, then when it is cool enough to get my hand in I will use a plastic pot scrubber to ablate off the hopefully loosened residue. Anything still stuck to the pot at that point needs to be scorched off, so I put the dry pot on the heat and watch for the stubborn residue to carbonize or otherwise burn off. By then the pot is hot enough to swab down with a light coat of oil or grease. I keep the pot on the heat and let it go till it is pretty much done smoking. You'll have to try it a couple times to learn when it is right at that sweet spot where it is no longer tacky but not starting to flake off. Usually you can pull it off the heat while it is still smoking just a bit, and the residual heat will finish it off. Occasionally I pull it off too soon and it still has a bit of a tackiness to it, so I might put it back on the heat for a few minutes to finish it off. Generally a standard 12" skillet can be smoked off on a propane burner on med high heat in about half an hour. Figure on roughly 20-25,000 btu per pan, depending on how efficient the heat transfer from the source to the pot goes (on grills, it generally takes the higher side because of the relative distance and diffusion of the elements).

Lard is okay, but cheap shortening is probably ideal (saturated and hydrogentated actually is preferable) and will be less expensive. Once you have a new pot/pan seasoned with a few coats, you should figure on re-seasoning it once every two or three uses on average. That's about where my average is, and they will slowly improve over time so long as you don't scorch them or get too zealous with scrubbing or let food sit in the pot on the counter too long before removing it. Food enzymes work a lot like soap to loosen up the seasoning as well, acidic foods like certain fruits and vegetables or foods with a significant salt content are particularly reactive.

I don't put cast iron away with raw oil or grease on it. It invariably gets gooey and contaminated with dust etc, imparts a bad taste to the next dish, and gets oil/grease on anything the pot comes in contact with. I've not had a pot or pan rust on me while in storage on a shelf in the garage, unless I wanted it to. From my experience and correspondence with other avid Cast Iron users, the methods I use are pretty close to commonplace, but certainly not the only way folks do things.