Hello,
This is my first post in this forum and writing in english is not really easy for me, but I think that I could perharps give some response to the first question.
First you could get good advices about cotton in winter in the book of Garrett & alexandra Conover "snow walker's companion, winter camping skills for the north". They will describe anoraks made from "egyptian cotton" by Empire Canvas Works.
If you want to know all the story about Gabardine (from Burberry's), Grenfell and Ventile you could read the book from and english professor Mary Rose : "Invisible on Everest - innovation and the gear makers". You have good explanation about these specials windbreaker and water resistant cloths.
Some interesting advices about grenfell cloths and cotton for jungle's war:
http://www.lostworldsinc.com/Grenfell_Cloth_Trench_Coat.htmYou could also see the klattermusen site in sweden. They have some cotton jackets in "Eta Proof" this a kind of ventile made in Swizterland. You could see "rimfaxe"
http://www.klattermusen.se/start.php?lang=ENI have, like other friends, a jacket from SASS. They are very wind resistant and could resists some hours under the rain, good deal.
http://www.sasskit.co.uk/products/militaryclothing/sassmock.htm This not "real Ventile". The owners says that the the cloths come from USA and the quality is very good. You could find extra long staple cotton in USA, equal or better than "egyptian cotton" the name is "sea island cotton". I like a lot this jacket.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gossypium_barbadenseI know that a lot of people say "cotton kill", especially with underwear, and I think that it is very often the truth. But, you could have for underwear netsuit from Brynje : these cotton underwear were with Hillary and Tensing on the Everest. Thes "netsuit" was "standard equipment" for scandinavian armies and russian special troops.
http://www.brynje.no/public/index.php?set_language=en&cccpage=historikkSo cotton,is perharps "not the best" but It could be useful. It is very good for antarctic expeditions, and it is good for underwear if you are a soldier : cotton doesn't melt on the skin like other fire resistant synthetic (nomex, kermel....).
During "falklands/malouines/malvinas war" (england vs argentina) in eightys a british destroyer (sheffield ?) was destroyed by a missile exocet. A lot of soldier were burned because they wore "polypropylen" underwear. These underwear were warmer, cheaper, easier to clean than cotton or wool...but polypropylen has a very low melting point. I think that US soldier have discovered this fact in Irak against IED.
sheffield "The fires on these ships did result in one clear change, which was the shift away from the nylon and synthetic fabrics then worn by British sailors. The synthetics had a tendency to melt on to the skin causing more severe burns than if the crew had been wearing non-synthetic clothing. The official report into the sinking of Sheffield, recently disclosed under UK Freedom of Information laws after an extensive campaign by ex-RN personnel,[8] severely criticised the ship's fire-fighting equipment, training and procedures and certain members of the crew.[9]"
Apologize for my english.
PS : A big article with a lot off illustrations about Grenfell and Ventile gear. Sorry this is in French...
french article