The legendary K-12 saw. We have 2 of them, you can cut most anything. The bolt cutters are quicker for locks and such.

You'd also like the Petrogen torch.

Because, um....because....gee, that's what the last guy did, so I guess that's how it's done. I honestly don't know why, but you're right, we always cut the LOCK.

I am sure that the farmers/ranchers/whatevers that own those locks hate you guys...

Thinking further about barbed-wire fences (I built untold miles as a farm kid) ...

If you absolutely must cut a farmer's barbed-wire fence (and it better be life and death) ...

1. The wires are under enormous tension, and it takes a lot of effort to get them that way. Put in at least one more staple into the post on either side, on each wire, preferably catching a barb, to hold tension so that the rest of the fence doesn't sag.

2. Have spare sections of barbed wire ready to make repairs after you pass through. Hint: farmers often leave long sections loose at the corners, to make adjustments or repairs over time.

3. If you cut fences for snowmobiles, quads, recreation or larceny, you deserve what you get. I recommend a year of fence-building over ten miles of forest and bog, in a wet year, with black flies and mosquitoes (the northern air force) in full attendance. Oh, you will wish for death, but death won't come. If you're lucky, some jerk will come along and cut your fences.

If you have to cut a fence, make darn sure you know what's on the other side. Some may have animals you just don't want to be the invader of their territory.

No need to cut. As I said before, take out the staples in
several posts, then lower the wire to the ground. Later
replace the staples. As kids (or adults for that matter)
you could do this to cross
large (10 mile wide) spreads with your horse. This was
an unwritten okayed practice with your neighbors. The
fences were to keep animals in, not people out. No one
would have thought to cut the wire and let the cows or sheep
out. That would have gotten you a good ++++.