Art, you beat me to it, although I don;t think I would've been able to go into so much detail.

No matter if the knife is hollow-ground, flat-ground, full or partial convexed, or "Scandinavian" ground, and no matter how razor sharp the knife is, edge strength depends on the thickness of steel behind the edge. The actual edge grind is different than the sharpeness of that same edge.

So, if you want a large knife to handle chopping well, you'd probably like to keep the edge grind a little "obtuse", say 20 degrees or more....or less. For a slicing knife, like a dedicated skinner or caper, you might like a nice hollow grind with a 12-1/2 or 15 degree edge...or so. But in either case, for me anyway, I want the edge just as razor sharp as I can get it...and then some. Even on a large knife I might want to use only for chopping.

And one more time another plug for the Bark River and other convex-ground knives. There is plenty of steel behind the edge for any task you assign the knife, they're easy to get *razor sharp*, and, at least with Bark River's A-2 or 12C27 steel, they're quick and easy to bring back the edge after use.

Sorry for stealing your thunder. I have had a good bit more time to play on the computer recently.

I do tend to go into detail. Part of my job is training and I try to assume very little. I never know what people know or don't. So the explanations tend to be longer, fuller and written like a textbook.

I wasn't faulting the detailed post, just commenting that I'm not smart enough to post all the details!