Having conducted many wheeled litter rescues, I can tell you that even on a well-traveled trail, this can be a daunting task. Taking a wheeled cart off-trail successfully does not sound very promising to me.

Lowering a loaded litter is a significant effort. Lowering a loaded cart, perhaps by yourself or with limited assistance is a major effort.

Pete

I like the cart idea.

I would go with 2 heavy duty larger wheels, like a small rickshaw (sp) or big game cart.

I would keep my essential BOB items in a pack on my back; in case you had to abandon the cart or if someone else liked your cart more than you wanted to fight to keep it.

Between college terms many years ago I worked at a welding shop and constructed a two wheeled cart to portage a canoe along an abandoned turn-of-the-century railway line in Algonquin Park. At the portage the canoe was unloaded, balanced within the small u-shaped cart and connected to it with a ratchet strap. We then reloaded the canoe and with one person pulling and one pushing we crossed the about 3 km portage. This first design I built was crude and used large 10 speed wheels, but my partner made a second stronger, padded, collapsable version using BMX tires. This system is tough on fiberglass or kevlar canoes, we used a Coleman Ram-X canoe which paddled like a scow but was near indestructible. This cart allowed us to portage much more weight in one trip than would have been possible on our backs.

This cart system is not something for canoe tripping or narrow portages but was perfect for our use. We have also used this cart to tow a canoe behind an ATV to access remote fishing/hunting lakes.

Mike

If you did have to bug out on foot, a good rolling suitcase/dufflebag could easily carry about 5 gallons of water (on smooth surfaces) and not attract any unecessary attention. People would just think its filled with clothes.

Raggedy clothes and shopping carts are good for that too (not drawing attention) ((( )))

along the sames lines, a basic bike with bags or a trailer would be useful too.

t

I have actually designed a DIY cart to fit these needs. Here is the written explanation. I also have it with a set of drawings to make things clearer. Anyone that would like the full plans Please PM me an E-mail address that can accept about a 1/2 meg attachment. I will gladly send it out.

Rickshaw Style Bug Out Cart
By Rich “Raspy” Shawver

There may come a time when a situation comes about that will require a person to get out of town. This is commonly referred to as bugging out. There are several means of accomplishing this end. They range from full vehicular to on foot. Although this may be for getting home, rather than getting away during times of trouble.

Car travel may be ruled out if there are problems on the road. But if available is the fastest and allows the most equipment to be taken along.

Using a bicycle for travel is sort of a middle ground. It is slower than a car but faster than walking. As for equipment it will allow more than walking and less than by car. The advantage over a car is that it is not as restricted to where it can travel. Plus it can be carried over bad sections.

Foot travel, while the slowest, is the most flexible in route availability. It is the most restrictive in amount of equipment. Even the healthiest can only carry a maximum of 50 to 60 pounds for any length of time. With a usual amount of around 25 to 30 pounds. Since water is one of the most crucially needed supplies, but at 7 ½ pounds per gallon the amount will be severely limited. This can be further complicated if young children are involved.

Having never been built like Conan the Barbarian, getting older every day and throw in a bad back hiking out with even minimal gear is a rather dismal prospect. To improve my chances I decided to explore options on how to transport more than on the back. To this end I studied various designs of game hauling carts, garden carts and other handcarts. The results were something like the Rickshaw would serve the purpose.

To accomplish my needs I decided to design a multipurpose cart. The criteria that I used were, first it had to be usable in as many different types of terrain and conditions as possible. It has to be able to be broken down into smaller sections with few tools for storage such as the trunk or a roof rack on a car. The track width would be variable to make it as stable as possible dependent on travel conditions. Wide for open areas which is the most stable but able to be narrowed to fit through tight game trails. The length is variable to enable carrying different sized loads. The materials used would be common enough that they may be found in most areas. The tools that are needed would be such that the majority would be simple hand tools or minimal power tools like a drill. Things a regular person would have on hand. Although more advanced tools and techniques can be used in the building. That is possible to build with little experience. Finally it can be used for other tasks to make it more worthwhile to build.

Because of different modes of possible travel. I decided such a cart should be capable of being pulled by hand, attached to a harness to be rigged on the body [or an animal] or be hooked to a bike.

Material options:

Electrical Metallic Tubing, EMT for short: Found in the electrical section. Used in construction work to protect electrical wires run inside it. Easily cut with a hacksaw. Can be filed to form curved ends to match up end on to the side of other tubes. Smooth curves rather than sharp right angle bends. These can be used to form handles or box shapes to form main platform. Works best to form the towing handles. Best sizes are ½ and ¾ inch tubes. To bend the tubing it requires a tool called appropriately a tubing bender. Usually a manual one runs $25 to $30. You may be able to borrow one from an electrician or plumber anyone that regularly bends metallic or copper pipes.

Ridged Metallic Tubing RMT: The same thing as EMT except that it is designed not to bend. The design uses this type of tubing to form the S shaped wheel to platform arm. RMT is used because of its strength and rigidity.

Hobby steel or project steel: Often found in places like Lowes. It comes in 3 forms and is useful in many home built projects. 1 inch square tubes, 1 inch angle iron [Essentially half the square tube.] and 1 inch wide flat stock. One of the reasons for using this type of hobby stock over regular steel stock is holes. These pieces have evenly spaced predrilled holes along the length of the stock. This helps in 2 ways. It lightens the material and makes it easy to bolt together. [No drilling.]

Expanded Metal Sheeting: This is metal sheet in the form of diamond grating. Sort of like small mesh wire fencing. It can be used to cover large openings to contain smaller objects.

Miscellaneous nuts, bolts, wingnuts, steel rods etc.

Ways of putting it together.

The least complicated and less tool intensive method is to bolt things together. Use existing holes as in hobby steel or drill holes. Slide a bolt through and add a nut. Some of the connections will be meant to be permanent. The best way to do this with nut and bolt assemblies is to use Loctite. Another method is to solder the joints. This would be with the use of a propane torch. The most solid method is welding or braising. As these require more extensive equipment it is limited to those that have the tools. Although the job can be hired done. The equipment rented if you have the skills. You may have a friend that will do it.

To join round tubing to round tubing the best method is to use stub tubes. The way to do this is to take the stub which is a short, 4 to 6 inches, piece of pipe or round bar stock that just fits inside the tubing that is to be joined. For ¾ inch tubing ½ inch pipe works nicely. For ½ inch tubing bar stock is probably the best bet. Insert the stub half way into the tubing. Drill at least one hole [Two would be preferred.] into both the tube and stub. A loctited set screw will hold the two together. The set screw hole can be tapped [Threaded] but if the metal is soft enough just driving the screw in will form its own threads. The other half of the stub is then inserted into the tube to be joined. If it is to be a permanent joint use the set screw method. If it is to be a joint that is to be taken apart with some regularly there are two other ways. In both drill a hole all the way through the tubing. In one slide a screw or bolt into the hole. Then secure with a nut or wing nut. The problem with this way is that the parts are small and easily lost. The other is to use a quick release clevis pin through the hole. The pin has a T or button handle with a spring-loaded button in the center. When pushed it releases detents at the other end. This allows the pin to be pulled out. The handles usually have a hole in them. That way a wire can run through the hole then tied to the assembly making it harder to loose.

Ok now the design.

Start off by building carrier platform. Approximately a 2 X 2 foot box. For strength and rigidity of the platform run 3 braces side to side and 3 braces front to back. This will break it into 16 inner boxes. Add a short section of ¾ inch tubing to both sides and 90 degrees to the platform. These are to act as sockets for the connectors to the wheels. Although these sockets can be the actual uprights of the platform. Some options that can be built into the platform. Cover the platform with expanded metal. Build a rail around it. This rail should be 2 to 4 inches high. Make it two leveled and install a drawer in it to store handle extensions, tools and spare parts. If you do decide to include the storage drawer you might want to line it with scrap carpet. That way the spares stored in it will not clank as much.

Wheel assemblies: Two required. Build a U shaped frame to hold the wheel. The axle is mounted to the ends of the open ends of the U. At the closed end of the U vertically mount a section of ¾ inch tubing for the connector socket. It would be possible to add fenders for the wheels to the assembly. This might not be that good of an idea. While it would reduce mud or dust flung up by the wheels they could be an extra source of entanglement. In addition they could reduce the entry and departure angle of the cart.

I would build the platform and the wheel assemblies out of square and angle iron stock and the handles out of EMT. Another idea of the wheel assembly is to acquire a couple of junked bikes of the same size. Then adapt the connector to use the front forks.

Here I have a dilemma. I still haven’t decided what kind of wheels would work best. I have considered two types. Bicycle wheels and Trailer wheels.

Bicycle wheels: They range, in size for this kind of use, from 20 to 26 inches in diameter. With mountain bike tires a width up to around 2 ½ inches. The advantage they have is they come in larger diameters but are not very wide. For things like brake assemblies they can be bought off the shelf.

Trailer wheels: Not the high-speed kind for boat trailers and the like. The low-speed kind for carts towed behind riding lawn mowers. The largest I have seen are 20 inches in diameter and up to 6 inches wide. Brakes and other accessories would need to be fabricated rather than purchased.

The difficulty in choice is which would give better performance. Bike wheels being taller give better ground clearance so would be easier to go over obstacles. They are also lighter. Trailer tires being shorter give up ground clearance. Being wider they would travel over soft and swampy ground better. More flotation less sinking into mud.

Now if you live in the north and it is wintertime wheels will not work. You need skis. Take 2 snowboards add sections of pipe to act as sockets. Like on top of the wheel assemblies. Then replace the wheel assemblies when necessary. If desired these skis can be homemade. Make them at least 6 to 8 inches wide and 3 or more feet long. Make sure they are large enough to support the weight. Turn up the tips at both ends so that it can travel in both directions.

Platform to wheel connecting piece: This is the heart of the cart. Make 2 one for each side. Take 2 right angle elbows of RMT. Each straight section is about 6 inches long. Use the kind that is internally threaded. In the same section there are outside threaded stub tubes. Screw the stub half way into one then screw on the other elbow so that when done the open ends face in opposite directions. The result is an S shaped piece with the top and bottom that are about 6 inches separated by 1 foot. The reason for ¾ inch RMT is that these support the weight and as ridged as possible to minimize flex. Trim the open ends to 2 or 3 inches long. This is to reduce the overall height for better stability and lower center of gravity. Added and fasten stub tubes into both open ends. These will eventually fit into the socket tubes on the platform and the wheel assemblies. The stub tube to socket tube connections act as a set of pivots. These pivot points should be lubricated with something like axle grease. If you can get them also put brass washers. This is because brass has natural lubricating tendencies. This allows changing the track width and aligning the wheels. While it is desirable to have these pivots move when adjusting the width having them move around during use is not a good thing. A way is needed to hold them together and to lock them into position. To do this, drill and tap a hole into the socket tubes. Insert a screw into the hole. When tightened into contact with the stub tube locks the assembly. This screw can be a hex-headed screw that is tightened with a separate hex wrench. Another method is a screw with a knob or handle attached.

Towing Handles: Because the design is to be able to carry loads of different lengths the handles need to be adjustable. There also needs to be a way to vary the end of the handle distance to the ground. The first handle piece is shaped like a big U. The bottom of this U is 2 pipe widths wider than the platform and the legs are 2 feet long. This is so that when the cart is broken down for storage the handle can be flipped to surround the platform. To attach this to section to the platform form straps like pipe hangers at least 2 although 3 or 4 would be better. The straps are bolted to the platform and are wrapped around the base of the U. They are sized so that when the bolts are loosened the handle can rotate but when tightened they lock the handle into place. To increase this friction grip a strip of rubber can be placed along the platform and the straps can be lined with rubber.

The ends of the handles should be formed into curves like the top of a cane or umbrella handle. The reason for this is to give a good gripping area. The length of the handle pieces should be 18 inches or less. The end that connects to the handles has stub tubes permanently attached as described above. This way the stub is inserted into the portion connected to the platform and pinned with a quick release pin.

To make the extension tubes take pieces of the desired size and cut to 18 inches. The reason for the 18 inches is that they are a nice size to fit in the platform drawer. Permanently install a stub tube in one end and a release pin hole at the other and in the stub tube. Construct a jig to make these so that they are as close to being identical as possible. That way they can go into the handle anywhere rather that having a specific location.

You may ask what if I want to tow this cart with my bike? Just make a bracket to connect it to a bike. Built this bracket in the shape of a T. Take 2 sections of tubing the same diameter as the handle tubes. Make them just long enough to accept half of a stub tube used in the handles. These are made the same way as handle extensions except shorter. These are then at the mounted at the ends of the cross bar of the T. The spacing is so it plugs into the two handles. In the middle of the upright of the T install a universal joint from a socket set. This allows some flex in the connection. It minimizes the chance of the trailer controlling the bike. A ridged connection could cause the rear wheel to actually lose contact with the ground when traveling over varied terrain. At the other end of the upright make a clamp to fit around the seat post. The simplest clamp can be made from 2 pieces of metal curved to fit around the post with tabs extending out either side. One set of tabs are bolted to either the inside or outside of the bracket tube. The other set of tabs have a screw through them that when tightened causes it to clamp around the seat post. If you already have a way to attach a trailer to a bike modify the assembly to connect into that system.

Brakes: Are brakes really needed? The first time a couple of hundred pounds of run away cart tries dragging you down a steep hill you just might be glad to have them. Dependent on the type of wheel that is chosen all or the majority of the components are bicycle brake parts. The difference is the brake caliper. If a trailer wheel is used a caliper can be constructed that is like a standard bike one but to fit a trailer tire. Another option is a one sided brake. This is an L shaped bracket. It has a brake pad at one end of the L, a hole at the other end to attach the cable unto and a hole in the middle to act as a pivot that is mounted to the frame around the wheel. When the wire is pulled the pad is pulled into the rim of the wheel. The resultant friction stops the wheel rotation. An additional method is to use the same level type action but to draw a bar into the top of the tire.

The way bicycle brakes work. At one end is a hand lever and the other is the caliper. In between is the cable. The cable consists of an outer sheath that is a flexible wire wound tube that is basically incompressible. It is affixed at with a stop at each end. This holds the lever and the caliper apart. The inner part is a steel cable. This is normally made of twisted strands of steel. This is attached to the moving part of the brake lever and the other side of the caliper. When the lever is squeezed it pulls the inner cable through the outer sheath. This tries to pull the caliper toward the lever. Because the outer sheath can not be compressed it supplies push to the pull of the cable. This set of opposing forces that squeezes the caliper applying the brakes. Often to save weight the frame of a bike is used to replace sections of the outer sheath. To do this requires 2 cable stops. A cable stop has a socket to receive an end of the sheath. They have a hole to allow the inner wire to pass through. The stops are attached to the frame facing each other. Since the stops are fixed to the frame the pushing force is transmitted through the frame. When running the cable, It can be zip tied to the frame to prevent it from flapping around and getting hung up on obstructions.

The modifications that are adapted for use for the cart, if even heard about on most bike forums you get me hunted down as a heretic with the desire to burn me at the stake. Because the cart is designed to be broken down into pieces a single long cable just will not work. The modifications are the use of several short sections of the cable. The inner wire has a loop fixed into one end and a matching hook at the other. The throw distance or the amount the cable is moved to apply the brakes will need to be measured. Cable stops are mounted facing each other across the gap where the handle sections come together. When the handle sections are put together the hook from one cable connects to the loop of the other. Because the handle sections are interchangeable the cable lengths need to be as close to the same as possible. The cable stops must be set far enough apart so that the hook and loop connection does not hit the stops preventing full operation of the braking mechanism. Another reason the cables need to be carefully measured is the bike to cart connector design hooks the two separate sides into a single cable to a hand brake lever. Although two cable runs to two handles is another possibility. In either method these separate brake handles would then be mounted next to the normal brake handles on the handlebars of the bike. These cart brake handles are mounted in such a way either pair of handles can be squeezed at the same time by one hand or each handle can be grabbed separately. I understand that that there are brake cable splitters. These are designed for when 2 brakes such as a rim and hub are used on a single wheel. This type is sometimes used on tandem bikes. These can be used to combine both trailer brakes into one. If a person does not like the awkwardness of double brake handles. If the intention is to regularly haul with a bike one of these splitters can be added to the rear brake cable of the bike. A last item that should be included in the braking package is inline adjusting barrels. More than one can be installed to allow adjusting and fine-tuning the brakes.

Because the arm and wheel assemblies are removable an arrangement has to be made for the braking cables and brakes to be quickly removable. To facilitate this the brakes can be mounted to a plate. The plate is then mounted to the framework with 2 bolts. This is because most bicycle style brakes are mounted with a single bolt. By having 2 bolts in the plate aligns the assembly to minimize the need for adjustment. Rather than zip tying the cable to the arm, which would require replacing the ties with every change, there are devices made to run electrical cables. These are U shaped plastic clips that can be tied down. The cable run is then pushed into the clip. To pack up, unbolt the plate, pull the cable loose and tuck into the pouch or pocket on the platform.

Another braking option is disc brakes made for bicycles. These could be used with either type of wheel. They come in manual and hydraulic. Manual disc brakes work the same way regular ones except where the brakes actually are applied. Hydraulic use hydraulic fluids to apply the braking force instead of a cable. It is my understanding that discs provide superior braking especially during adverse conditions like mud and water. They do have a bad rap. This is usually do to improper installation or adjustment. Apparently initial installation and adjustment is a much more critical task. Hydraulics has the additional problem of needing periodic bleeding. And seem to require a good deal more and excessively finicky maintenance.

A final note on braking. I have not discovered a good way to provide braking in the ski mode of operation. The closest thing I can come up with is what they use on dog sleds. This is a claw that is tied to the cart and tossed out to act as an anchor.

Now that the cart is built, how can it be used? Is can be as simple as strapping a pack or rubber maid type tote to the frame. For bug out purposes I would build a basket. This basket would be similar in design to a Stokes Rescue Basket. Roughly 7 feet long, 2 feet wide and 1 foot deep. This would permit carrying large amounts of gear. A way to haul young children. It could even double as a stretcher for an injured party member. The basket would be strapped to the cart. The ends of the basket are rounded to facilitate pushing through things like brush. To start form the upper rim with EMT. Then add the two bottom runners. These run the length of the basket and are slanted from the rim down at about a 45-degree angle to the bottom. They are spaced about a foot apart. Six evenly spaced curved ribs are connected to the rim to the bottom runners and between the runners. The entire basket is then lined with the expanded metal sheet. This gives a small grid to evenly support the load. Single tube to tube connections would use stub connections. Where 3 tubes come together the choice is using T plumbing connectors and solder together or you could make a T shaped stub tubes. For 4 tubes it would be the same except the joint would be cross-shaped. All the joints can also be shaped and welded. The final choice would be to cross the tubing over each other and bolted together. This would be a less smooth design. The runners would be mounted inside the rim. The ribs would be inside the rim and over the runners. In this case the ends of the tubes should be capped. This brings up the question. While the cart collapses to be able to fit into a trunk, how the heck would a 7-foot basket be made to fit? The answer is simple. Cut the thing in half. Then use stub tubes with one side having quick connect pins. If this is still to large it could be cut into thirds or even quarters.

Packing the basket. The modular method is the best way to go. By packing in modules task specific gear can be easily pulled rather than rummaging around for it. One of the modules should be a grab and go bag or pack. This should be near the front and top. This is for a tactical situation that would require abandoning the cart. This is essential gear. The load needs to be balanced slightly front oriented just as loading a trailer towed behind a cart. Trying to haul a fully loaded cart up a cliff would be nearly impossible without a block and tackle or a winch. Although either of these items could be added. By being modular it can be unloaded hauled up in smaller packages then reloaded at the top.

Cart accessories:
Straps pre-rigged to the platform for tying down loads.
A belt and shoulder harness rig that can be attached to the handles for hands free towing.
Bands or straps that can hold the brake handle in the applied position to lock the wheels for parking.
Straps can be wrapped around the brake handles. These can be ranger bands, Velcro straps, etc. They are used to lock the brakes when parking.
A specialized cradle. If something that is carried that has an odd shaped bottom, such as a canoe, that would not ride solidly on the platform. A job specific cradle can be built as a transition piece that straps, bolts or clips to the platform and then conforms to the item.

For the basket:
Straps attached for securing the load.
If the plan includes children seats can be made for them and include seatbelts.
2 waterproof covers:
One to cover the load is obvious.
The other that fits the around the bottom of the basket. This can be slipped on so that it can act as a boat for water crossings. Because of the displacement it should easily float well over 500 pounds. The 7 X 2 X 1 size gives a calculated size of 14 cubic feet. At 62.43 pounds per that works out to 874 pounds. Take away for the curved areas instead of square construction, remove a some capacity to allow the rim to be above the waterline and the basket weight you are still looking at large floatable amount of weight. To minimize damage to both covers they would be folded and stored in the cart until needed.

Gee while a cart like this is nice I just can not justify the expense of building something that may never be used. Well the versatile nature of this cart solves this. Because the handles can be extended it can be used to haul a canoe. How about toting loads of lumber around a site. What about camping? A wife or husband that expect the luxuries that are to heavy for backpacking or children that are to young to carry a load. This cart can allow trekking deeper than car camping would allow. A lawn and garden cart. If something needs to be hauled with a little imagination and attachment can be devised to adapt the cart.

Lawn and garden cart adapter. I will describe how to build this because it will probably the most used and useful option. Most yard carts whether commercial or plans found on the web and in magazines from time to time are little more than large plywood boxes on wheels. The cart supplies the wheels. All that is needed is to build the box. Because this box rides atop the plat form it need not be limited to the size of the platform. It can extend out past the sides to be wider and extend along the handles to be longer. If the platform is built with railing attaching the box is quite simple. At the end away from the handles attach a couple of blocks to the bottom of the box the thickness of the rails and set in the width of the rails in from the back edge. To these blocks add pieces of wood that in conjunction with the bottom form a U that fits around the rail. The blocks are spaced so that they just fit between the side rails. This keeps the box from sliding back or side to side. At the portion of the box that aligns handle end rail attach another set of blocks. These have twist-able tabs. To mount slip the end tabs under the rails drop the box down unto the platform the tabs are then twisted to lock under the other end rail. Where the box extends over the handles attached a set of curved-bottomed legs like those on a wheelbarrow. Their function is to support and level the cart when parked. The legs can be hinged to fold against the cart bottom for storage.

The bottom panel should be at least ¾ inch outdoor plywood. The side and end panels can be the same or ½ inch plywood to reduce weight. If the end panels are to be solid the entire thing can be nailed or screwed together. If other options for the ends are to be used a frame of angle iron should be attached around the ends to give the sides needed support to hold the sides up. The end gate options: Hinged at the bottom to fold down like a ramp. Hinged at the top to open like a dump truck. Also the panel can be hinged to one side. All hinged panels will need hooks to hold them closed when desired. Slots can be built into the ends so that the panels can be slid into or removed, as need dictates. A final option is to build a frame that fits into slots and then the panel hinged to the frame. This will allow the panel to be put into the cart to match any of the hinge configurations. The ends can both be the same style or each a different style.

I have tried to be deliberately vague about dimensions. This is because the idea behind the cart is to be homemade. Being made by many different people this entails different skill sets and selection of tools available. Correspondingly depending upon scrounging ability other materials may come to hand. The only thing in the design that is even close to critical is the arm between the platform and wheel assemblies. Even this can be replaced with something that is as strong and can do the same job. The base 2 foot wide size was chosen because a full-grown person averages around a foot and a half wide. Add a little clearance and the tightest passageway or trail most people will use would be a little over 2 feet wide and more likely 3 feet. The cart is set so it will fit where it is most common to travel. The basket is designed along the same lines and wide enough to allow it to be used as a stretcher.


NOTE: Some of the screws need to be loosened and tightened to adjust the cart. Especially the wheel pivots and the handles. These can be commercial knob or lever assemblies, which will increase the cost. Various types of screws can be used. These would require a tool or tools to manipulate. These tools being separate could be lost. Another option would be to make your own levered handled screws. Actually this is quite easy. Take the appropriate sized allen headed screws and matching allen wrenches. Then weld, solder or epoxy the wrenches into the screw. Instant levered screw.

You know, I was thinking the same thing the other day when I passed a homeless persons 3-shopping-cart caravan. All linked together with a crapload of stuff on them being pulled with relative ease. The only problem, like with the suitcase, is the small wheels. But then again, if its loaded down with water I wouldn't want to push it on anything but a flat surface.

That's exactly what I'm thinking.

I have all the critical gear in my ALICE pack. If need be, I could survive with that alone. But I have no room left (either in space or weight) to carry a tent. I don't think a tent is required if you can build shelter using natural resources, but having one would make life that much easier. If I had a cart, I could also have a tent.

Check this one out! It looks like one of those golf club carts some of you were talking about. Even has a place for the be-good-stick.

http://www.sherpacart.com

There ya go!!!