Other than taking special care of knives, any other tips worth knowing or gear worth taking? Its going to be HOT (35 C +), and the river is lower than than ussual (more rapids <img src="images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />). the toughest rapids are grade 2's (dont know what that means though).

Grade 2 rapids are very straightforward - interesting, but not difficult. The scale runs from 1 (easy riffles) to 6 (death defying.

My leatherman tools, including the Wave, do fine around salt water with occasional oiling and cleaning. In my experience, they are quite rust resistant.

Assuming you are going to be renting your gear I will skip the usuall list of equipment that should be attached to your Personal Floatation Device. Any tool that you take after the trip should be dried out and lubricated. Don't have 100% confidence in belt cases or your pockets. I usually double secure my gear by using lanyards. That goes for my knife, Wave, lighter and flashlight. I would stash couple of high energy bars in my pockets. Water "sucks" a lot of energy out of you. Also plenty of water is important. If you fall into the river turn around and go down with the current legs first. That way you will absorb and impact from dead trees or rocks. When you reach pool of calm water make your way into the boat or to the bank of the river. Always wear your PFD. I saw excelent swimmers going under like rocks. Try avoiding glass containers.

thanks for the replies guys.

Polak, where do you secure your stuff (PFD, belt etc)?

Woft,

I use canvas or nylon belts (they dry faster than leather) and that's where I put on my Wave and knife sheath. I will secure the tools in the holsters with small lengths of cord and that would be tied to a loose plastic carabiner hanging of the belt loop. Other stuff such as lighter and flashlight are in my cargo pocket which has a velcro and button closure. In my pfd I have 3-4 pockets full of different junk (strobe, pocket rockets, space blanket, psk and poncho) all these is tied to each other and again secured with cord to the pdf. If my pfd is not in use it is on the bottom of my kayak loose arm length away. Lately I've seen new pouches for tools and knives that have a velcro and than snap on buckle closer over it. I think that I will get few of those.

Matt

Just a note to remind anyone who is planning to hard-tie gear to themselves, belts or PFD, please use some type of breakaway mechanism. You can use a plastic carabineer just as Matt is using, plastic coil or other mechanism. Please do not use 550/paracord or other difficult to break line/cordage. If you use a carbineer to directly hook the item onto yourself, belt, PFD, use a plastic or locking carbineer, but make sure it does not dangle, where it would get caught in something. Many individuals drown each year from having an item (whistle, knife, etc.) hard-tied to themselves via their belt/PFD getting caught in a rock, submerged tree limb, etc., which forces the individual under water. Swift water is frequently under judged by individuals in terms of the tremendous force generated, even when it appears to be slowly moving. One item of less importance: Velcro will sometimes not hold well when wet. Pete

Yes all my stuff is tied to something plastic. My pfd inside pockets has nice plastic loops that can break away if pulled strong enough. Same goes for my plastic carabine for belt tools. White water is damn trciky and unpredictable.

Matt

Woohoo, right up my alley! To the already excellent suggestions, I'd add carry a change of clothes (non-cotton thermal undies preferably) in a dry bag or even vacuum packed to save space. Even when the air temp is broiling, the turbulent water can can chill you from fighting it as much as the cold temperature if you go for a swim.

BTW, the best rust-inhibitor I've found is some obscure stuff called Corrosion Block made by Lear Chemical. I used to work for black pearl oyster farm right at the sea's edge and that stuff worked wonders! I get a ziploc and leave my knives and multi-tools marinating in the stuff until the next use. Hadn't seen that they have grease before; that's got potential.

http://www.corrosion-control.com/corrblock.grease.html