Hi,

A bit of background- I want to buy a sleeping bag. A good one, for year-round use (which basically means I am concerned with keeping warm in winter). I want to use it in New Zealand, where the lowest temperature in winter in my area is around -10°C or so (about 14°F), but usually only a few degree below freezing. I plan to buy a Claytor Jungle Hammock and some sort of thin insulating pad, and I intend to go out and use the hammock anytime of year, but not in awful cold weather if I can avoid it, and not in an area where I am likely to get 'stuck'. However, as a radio amateur I want to prepare myself to assist in Search and Rescue and be able to camp out any time of year (which happens a lot in New Zealand, when people get, um, 'stuck'). As a radio operator I would be placed at base camp, which is generally a public camp site, but it could be anywhere including exposed places.

I have identified three concerns:

1) Down or Synthetic?

2) Temperature rating.

3) Cost.

For item one, I understand the pros and cons of each (down lasts well and packs small, but synthetic will work even when damp). I think I want a small packing size, but it does get damp in NZ.

For item two, I have found a potential bag rated to -6°C, but it is not described as '4 season'. I think it would be adequate for my needs (I wouldn't choose to go out on a -6°C night, but occasionally might be asked to). I intend to get a silk liner for the sleeping bag, which is supposed to improve the rating by 5°C (i.e. down to -11°C), but is that the correct interpretation? If I got cold, I could just wear more layers, right?

The third point is important but not critical. That is to say, I don't mind paying a reasonable amount of money for something that will work properly. I don't want to spend too much on unnecessary features, and I don't want to spend too little and end up with something not quite suitable.

I am living in Japan right now, and I can get hold of just about any equipment. It seems to be an envious position, but really it's overwhelming. I am willing to do the research, but I'd like some practical advice on what to look for, and what to ignore. For example, MontBell's gimmick is the 'mummy back' which has internal elastication to hug the bag to you as you move around, thus eliminating pockets of air inside the bag.

(Oh, and I should say I usually camp in a tent, with a self-inflating mat and an inadequate sleeping bag. Sleeping in a hammock appeals to me, and the sleeping bag must be replaced, but I could use it in summer I suppose).

Thanks in advance,

A

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Those bags look really warm...but heavy.

I laughed when I saw that the 'ultralight' weighs 3 lbs. I couldn't imagine carrying around their FTRSS system. 3 bags and the over bag alone weighs more than my one sleeping bag. Could weigh as much as 17 lbs for that system depending on how it's configured!

I do like the fact that they will ship them vacuum packed...great idea.

Western Mountaineering Ultralite Super 20 degree bag

Down is best. In colder weather supplement with insulated jacket. In warmer weather use it like a quilt.

www.westernmountaineering.com

3lbs, oh my aching back. Now I know how my mules felt packing in a period cowboy bedroll of 6' x 18' canvas, 3 quilts and 4 wool blankets. Again, we buy a knife because it is sharp, not because it has titanium scales and wieghs a few ounces less. Sleeping bags retain warmth. They do not generate it.If you think a shower curtain as carried by a famed ultralight dayhiker is adequate get a shower curtain.If you want to be warm buy insulation, which means a measured amount of loft. I use Wiggys.I compensate for that brutal 3 lbs. by cutting the handles short on my toothbrush and copyright notices on my maps.

I'm not trying to say 3 lbs is too much...I'm trying to say 17 is. You're totally right though Chris. It doesn't matter how light or heavy it is if it can't keep you warm...that's the most important spec of any bag.

My bag is just over 3 lbs and it's just right.

have a look at this KIFARU's bag system ...

Base bag, rated for 20°F (-6°C) weights 2lbs,4oz (1035g).
Add 2oz (57g) for a compression sack ... and it packs very small (check pix on KIFARU web site - link above)
Use the MOB system to add more insulation at will ..

From everything you mentioned I'd suggest the Mountain Hardwear Ultralamina +15. Down is amazing but since New Zealand isn't the driest place on earth I'd stick with synthetic due to the fact that it insulates when wet, dries quickly, and requires less maintenance overall. For a bit more breathability you could always get a silk bag liner.

http://www.rei.com/product/747894

I just replaced an old bag, diddn't think it would be a big deal - just skip down to REI, and pick one up..right?-WRONG!
There are so many more choices today,than there were in the "old days" I was lost!

Anyway, my 40 hrs.or so reaserch lead me to a Marmot Helium, which targets your temp. range (15deg.), but if weight is't an issue you could save some $$.

Hi ame

Selecting a sleeping bag can be difficult despite the huge range of excellent down and synthetic sleeping bags on the market. A top quality down sleeping bag rated at -10 C will weigh around 1.0 Kg. A top quality synthetic sleeping bag rated at -10 C will weigh around 2.0 Kg. If your expecting conditions to be around -10 C then a -15 C specification bag will probably be required. This means a 1.1Kg down or 2.3 Kg synthetic bag. The difference is around 1.2 Kg or to put it another way is around 3500-4000 Kcal heating fuel contained within 1.2 Kg of additional food, which could be carried in addition to a down sleeping bag instead of carrying a synthetic bag.

A 2.3 Kg synthetic bag will be considerable larger when packed down compared to a 1.1 Kg down bag.

One thing to remember is there is no cold just lack of heat. Sleeping bags don't provide any heat. They just keep the heat that is generated from the body confined around the body within the sleeping bag. If you are consuming an extra 1000 Kcal worth of food a few hours before sleeping, the difference in perceivable warmth will be very noticeable especially if it's been a tough tiring day trekking. There is a real difference between being cold, tired and hungry and just being tired.
A down bag is more expensive than a synthetic bag, typically twice as expensive, but this has to taken in context because a down bag will generally last twice as long or longer.

Down bags when they become wet will loose most of its insulation properties, much more so than synthetic bags. You just have to be careful to ensure the down within the bag does not get wet. Many manufacturers of high specification down sleeping bags will use down proof, breathable and water resistant outer ripstop fabrics to help provide protection against this problem. An additional dry storage bag with a roll closure for the down bag is a good idea.
There is also a huge difference in quality of the down available. Down is rated by the loft rating. The best down has a loft rating of 800 (rare European Eider down). The loft ratings vary from 500 through 600, 650, 700 and 750. Anything above 700 is generally considered to be highest quality. US loft figures are generally 100 above European. i.e. an 850 loft bag is equivalent to a 750 European loft rating.

Sleeping bag liners are very useful. They keep the bag cleaner and add additional warm. A silk liner may add 2-3C to the bags rating. The silk liner is also the lightest and most compact. Liners made from Pertex are useful as well being similar to the silk liners. Liners made from Fleece are the warmest adding up to 5-7C but are much heavier (800 grams) and bulky being almost as bulky as another separate single season sleeping bag.

There are some excellent down sleeping bags from companies like Rab, PHDesigns, Marmot, Western Mountaineering and Mountain Equipment etc. They are all excellent manufacturers.

There is an excellent article available at http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=417